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Hello everybody, I am new here and have some questions. I have a 17 ss with the TW wet mod, IRP, alternator, and just installed alba hd clutch due to finally went through my OEM clutch plates. 30in tires as well.

Took it on a ride after new clutch plates and it was making some vibrating weird noise so cut it short and went back to truck, 40 min total, while putting it on the trailer I could smell the plates burning. I opened it up and oil is def burnt smell, plates and steels look perfect, TW wet clutch basket looks to have some very slight wear on it on the fingers, inside part where the plates and steels touch it.

Has anybody seen wear on the TW basket? is that normal??

what is this double up spring all about? is it on 3 pedal rides or all?

do i need to upgrade my actuator? or do i need to adjust the actuator and how do I do that?

Thanks in advance for the help
 

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You shouldnt have doubled up the diaphragm springs on a SS with out the actuator. Unless you have a turbo, leave it stock with just the upgraded spring by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You shouldnt have doubled up the diaphragm springs on a SS with out the actuator. Unless you have a turbo, leave it stock with just the upgraded spring by itself.
I have not doubled up but saw it on the forum so was wondering what that was all about.

Went to Alba racing while I was in San Diego for work and talked with Nate, now that I have opened it up it doesn't make sense why so burnt already. Kyle from Weller racing said that the Alba plates (also Tubeworks) just seem to give issues with the SS...

Just not sure why the basket would have any weird wear marks unless that is the Alba plates doing something weird. Idk OEM plates didn't act like this, kinda expensive to try this or that so need to figure out the issues asap and help other SS guys :/
 

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The oem clutches should work just fine for you id stick with them, did you bleed the clutch actuator completely? I used 2 big bottles of fluid trying to get all the air out of the system. you might be slipping just enough to burn them without throwing codes??
 

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I have a 2017 SS, and had the rekluse torque drive clutch (that is made for the SS) installed. I only have a couple hundred miles with it, but so far so good.
 

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When I did the TW 15% reduction I was going to do the heavy duty clutch and TW told me run the stock clutch plates (this is for the SS)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The oem clutches should work just fine for you id stick with them, did you bleed the clutch actuator completely? I used 2 big bottles of fluid trying to get all the air out of the system. you might be slipping just enough to burn them without throwing codes??
How do you bleed the actuator?

Ya the new Alba plates are thinner so maybe that is the issue :/ OEM plates I could put 10 Frictions, 9 Steels. Alba plates it was 11/10. It does sit FLAT with the basket like it should so not sure what the real issue is with that. Unless the Alba plates are meant for turbo'd machines that hit harder. Stock stay OEM?

Merry Christmas everybody, hope you guys got lots of yxz parts :)
 

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How do you bleed the actuator?

Ya the new Alba plates are thinner so maybe that is the issue ? OEM plates I could put 10 Frictions, 9 Steels. Alba plates it was 11/10. It does sit FLAT with the basket like it should so not sure what the real issue is with that. Unless the Alba plates are meant for turbo'd machines that hit harder. Stock stay OEM?

Merry Christmas everybody, hope you guys got lots of yxz parts
[/QUOTE]





Im not sure if this process is correct but under the shifter to the left of the shift actuator theres a little bleeder. Reservoir is up under the hood. It takes DOT4 I think it'll say on the cap, but my car was on jack stands running. I would put it in gear then back to neutral a couple times to pump up the system then crack bleeder, and I just repeated that process over and over untill it would move on its own then I set it down and did it untill it felt good and grippy pulling out ? ive been launching and banging gears for 1k+ miles ever since
 

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Ive never messed around with the clutches myself but mine have been replaced. But this is the process I used when I did my frame swap, im not gonna claim that its the proper procedure but its worked just fine for me, even with full exhaust and tune it still holds strong
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How do you bleed the actuator?

Ya the new Alba plates are thinner so maybe that is the issue �� OEM plates I could put 10 Frictions, 9 Steels. Alba plates it was 11/10. It does sit FLAT with the basket like it should so not sure what the real issue is with that. Unless the Alba plates are meant for turbo'd machines that hit harder. Stock stay OEM?

Merry Christmas everybody, hope you guys got lots of yxz parts




Im not sure if this process is correct but under the shifter to the left of the shift actuator theres a little bleeder. Reservoir is up under the hood. It takes DOT4 I think it'll say on the cap, but my car was on jack stands running. I would put it in gear then back to neutral a couple times to pump up the system then crack bleeder, and I just repeated that process over and over untill it would move on its own then I set it down and did it untill it felt good and grippy pulling out �� ive been launching and banging gears for 1k+ miles ever since[/QUOTE]

Thank you for the info! My original clutch plates had 1,200 well abused miles on them :) Only smelt burning once when I powered over a log instead of using my winch like a big dummy.

Anybody know where we can get a service manual for a decent price? or have a pdf file you wanna email me? :)
 

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Tom from Tubeworks just called me back and said the wear on the wet basket is normal, its still hardened metal and not to worry about any of that. He did say that the SS is having issues with everything besides the non OEM clutch plates. That is also what Kyle from Weller said.

20181226_121103.jpg

Tom also recommends the 2019 gear swap, they are doing one for a guy right now :) there is a guy who did it to his 16. https://www.facebook.com/groups/877984048905836/permalink/2011536635550566/
 

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Tom from Tubeworks just called me back and said the wear on the wet basket is normal, its still hardened metal and not to worry about any of that. He did say that the SS is having issues with everything besides the non OEM clutch plates. That is also what Kyle from Weller said.

View attachment 111328

Tom also recommends the 2019 gear swap, they are doing one for a guy right now :) there is a guy who did it to his 16. https://www.facebook.com/groups/877984048905836/permalink/2011536635550566/
I now have 500 miles on the Rekluse Torque Drive clutch on my 2017 SS. I have had no issues with it so far. 6 spring clutch plate, improved oiling and 5 more friction plates. Dealer says he has installed these in 5 SS's with no issues. FYI.
 

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When I had my box apart to fit the 15% drop gears, I routinely added a new OE clutch pack (which works perfectly).

I try to avoid the mantra 'If it's not broken, fix it until it is broken'.

If OE works, leave it alone!
 

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I understand that! I went with the Rekluse Torque Drive clutch as it was recommended by my dealer for the SS. They had customers with early clutch failures and in those cases they installed the Rekluse - about 5 or so as I understand it. My results so far have been very good but it is still early. Time will tell. I only mention this as an option for some, as I have read many times that only the OEM clutch works without issues in an SS. In my (and others) experience the Rekluse has worked flawlessly in the 2017 SS and may be an option for those not happy with the OEM clutch.
 
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