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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I am about to install the 2019 gears in my 2016 YXZ. To those that have done this, is it possible to do it in the car? Do I absolutely have to remove the transmission? I bought the Weller kit. The gaskets that it comes with make it seem like I do not have to take it all apart. Any insight would be great. I am not scared to take it out and do it, just would rather not if I do not have to.

Hopefully with some guidance I will try and get some video of the install. I was going to do an Alba HD clutch set up at the same time.

Thanks!
 

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Yes, you have to take the transmission out. It has to be split apart to change gears. Tubeworks made a YouTube video of the process.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks I went through the manual some last night and realized I had to take it out... additionally any clutch recommendations? Gonna put new parts in it while I have it all apart.
 

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2018 SE, CageWRX cage, 2019 Gears, Rekluse Clutch, Trinity exhaust, Weller tune,RR Intercom & Radio,
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The only two things I would add to the job is to go ahead and do the tubeworks clutch mod while your in there. And don't forget to install a speedo adjuster on it. Much easier than going back and adding it later since your already apart.

I went with the 12 o'clock labs. Cheap, easy and does a great job.
Nate
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How do you calibrate the speedo adjuster? Or let it know what you are doing? Does it come pre-programmed ?

Does the oil mod require drilling/tapping?
 

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2018 SE, CageWRX cage, 2019 Gears, Rekluse Clutch, Trinity exhaust, Weller tune,RR Intercom & Radio,
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The oil mod does require drilling a series of holes in the clutch basket. IIRC they are 5/32" holes, in every 5th "bay". Its not going to be as effective as the Tubeworks version since they also include a plate to help keep the oil circulating. But its definitely more effective than the stock clutch basket. When I swapped gears I noticed some very dry plates in the bottom of the stack before doing the mod.

As for the adjuster, it will need to be programmed. Its pretty simple to operate and the instructions are pretty clear on how to program it. Bottom line, use a GPS or other method of determining your exact speed. Compare it to the indicated speed on the speedometer and then divide one by the other. This will give you an adjustment ratio. Program in the ratio. Rerun the test to see if the indicated speed and actual speed are the same.

To get the speed I used a GPS speedometer app that was free. I had it log my highest speed, drove down the road at an indicated 45 MPH for a mile and then compared the two. IIRC the adjustment was -13%. But that was for 2018 to 2019 gear swap with OEM tires.

Nate
 

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The oil mod requires drilling a bunch of holes around the clutch drum, there is also a YouTube video on drilling the clutch drum. If you are not going to go any larger than 30" tires and stay naturally aspirated then it's not necessary to get crazy with the clutch. I would put stock plates and steels back in it and add a second diaphragm spring and call it a day. If you are going to boost the car or go with bigger tires then an aftermarket pressure plate might be needed.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have 29" tires now and have 27" set and 28" for the dunes. I have a spare clutch basket ready to be drilled, thought you might be referring to something else. Thank you for the input! I also have the GPS tablet so that should help with that!

I was looking at alba plates and HD spring as I dont want to mess with the jutter springs.
 

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The only thing I would be concerned about is I heard of some people having issues with the Alba pressure plate not being machined properly and the clutch would start slipping prematurely. This has been awhile ago so it may have been corrected by now.
 

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I drilled the basket, installed new Barnett clutch, Tubeworks 15% reduction, 2019 primary and first gear sets, updated early Rekluse with six spring pressure plate which changes clutch engagement to be just like a dirt bike instead of going from disengaged to engaged in a half inch of pedal travel. All is good now.

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Sweet!

Only "piece of advice", and you know what advice is worth....

The YXZ clutch only has two positions. On and Off. Anything else will only burn it up.

Nate
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Two pieces of advice, I am going at this slowly as I work a lot and have other responsibilities.
-Wait until your gas tank is almost empty to do this
-the differential bolt is a B to get out without removing the rear upper A arm at least part way.

Other than that it is going pretty smoothly so far.
 

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I found that instead of removing the upper arms I was able to use a jack to lift the passenger side wheel high enough to be able to slide the bolts out. Then rock the rear diff back far enough to disengage the drive shaft at the tranny.

One word of advice, do not reuse the lock nuts on the rear diff.

I noticed movement in mine after a couple hours and discovered that 2 of the lock nuts were gone and the third was down to just a couple threads. And, yes, they were properly torqued during reinstall but I had not replaced them. One of the few times I have not replaced self locking hardware, and it almost bit me hard. Fortunately I found it before any damage was done.

Nate
 
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I drilled the basket, installed new Barnett clutch, Tubeworks 15% reduction, 2019 primary and first gear sets, updated early Rekluse with six spring pressure plate which changes clutch engagement to be just like a dirt bike instead of going from disengaged to engaged in a half inch of pedal travel. All is good now.

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This is good INFO, but I am a little confused. You said you installed Tubeworks 15% reduction, 2019 primary and first gear sets installed? How did you do the Tube works and the 2019 gear set? Not trying to be critical just trying to clear it up in my head. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My understanding is the tubeworks is the final drive gear where as the 2019 gears are in the sets.
 

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Tube works make a final drive and first and fifth gear sets. My confusion with what Barney said was that he installed Tubeworks 15% reduction which would be their final drive or primary, Then he said he installed 2019 primary and first gear sets. He probably meant something different, but that would mean he installed two different final drives. The only reason I'm curious is he is mixing and matching gears sets and that is interesting to me as most people aren't doing this. This outside-the-box thinking opens up more options for gear selection. I'm just looking for a clarification of exactly what he is doing and what the results were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got ya! yeah there are options it seems like. I ended up going with a barnett clutch and Weller HD spring for mine. Parts get here this weekend, but I will be riding the other machines. So next weekend or the weekend after I hope to be finished mine.
 

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Thanks for the clarification, Barney. Please let us know how this gear combo works out.
 

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I put the Tube Works 15% drop set (final drive) in my '19, and retained the factory '19 first gear set. This drops the entire range an additional ~8% and makes up for my 31" tires. Works great. This is on an SS. Only issue I have is the computer is a little confused by the slightly lower ratio and leaves the half clutch light on sometimes (even though clutch is fully engaged).
 
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