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Discussion Starter #1
Wanted to tap the experience of the group, My GYTR Turbo will be here Wednesday, I'll be installing it myself and was wondering how long did the install take for you all?

I have a dune trip coming up weekend of the 4th and would really like to install it before but do not want to be stuck with a torn down machine next week. I am mechanically inclined and love to wrench on my own stuff.

Thanks for your feedback
 

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If it was me I'd wait until after your trip. You don't want to rush this job. Even if you are very careful you might have problems that will take longer to resolve. for example when I was installing the turbo oil adapter it broke off. I knew this was a very delicate piece and checked my torque wrench twice. I wasn't even near the required torque when it snapped off. I ordered two new ones from different suppliers and they will be here tomorrow. This part needs to be higher quality than what they give you.

I was in the same boat you are with a upcoming trip. I'm glad I waited otherwise my machine would have stayed at home.

The oil drain line is also a pain. The clearance between the frame and motor is very tight. I had to grind on the frame a bit to get it to fit.
 

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If it was me I'd wait until after your trip. You don't want to rush this job. Even if you are very careful you might have problems that will take longer to resolve. for example when I was installing the turbo oil adapter it broke off. I knew this was a very delicate piece and checked my torque wrench twice. I wasn't even near the required torque when it snapped off. I ordered two new ones from different suppliers and they will be here tomorrow. This part needs to be higher quality than what they give you.

I was in the same boat you are with a upcoming trip. I'm glad I waited otherwise my machine would have stayed at home.

The oil drain line is also a pain. The clearance between the frame and motor is very tight. I had to grind on the frame a bit to get it to fit.

+1 to the broken oil adaptor fitting. Be careful with that one! Luckily the dealer sent me a replacement. I ended up putting locktite on my new one and thread tape.

20 hours it took me on my first go around. roughly 1 week of putsin around.

Could do it again in probably 10 hours. But I wouldn't recommend rushing it.
 

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+1 to the broken oil adaptor fitting. Be careful with that one! Luckily the dealer sent me a replacement. I ended up putting locktite on my new one and thread tape.

20 hours it took me on my first go around. roughly 1 week of putsin around.

Could do it again in probably 10 hours. But I wouldn't recommend rushing it.
+ 3

Mine broke as well. A bad day of mine machines AN fittings for a reputable company and I’ve been around his machine shop a fair amount. After looking at mine it looked to be machined poorly so I called dasa to nicely let them know so they could source another vendor. He told me I was the first person to comment on it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will have to wait as my slip on open exhaust wont arrive in time and in case something goes wrong, I do not want to miss riding the dunes next week. Thanks for the advice and pointers
 

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+1 to the broken oil adaptor fitting. Be careful with that one! Luckily the dealer sent me a replacement. I ended up putting locktite on my new one and thread tape.

20 hours it took me on my first go around. roughly 1 week of putsin around.

Could do it again in probably 10 hours. But I wouldn't recommend rushing it.
When you installed the new oil adapter did you torque per the required spec in the instructions? I got a new adapter and I don't dare use the torque wrench this time.
 

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When you installed the new oil adapter did you torque per the required spec in the instructions? I got a new adapter and I don't dare use the torque wrench this time.
I broke the first fitting.. Was able to get it out..

Second fitting I under torqued it. Didn't want it to break again..

Second fitting leaked since it was under torqued.. So I cleaned it up very well, and I put thread tape on it.like 3 wraps around the threads. Then I put blue locktite over the thread tape, put it in it until it started to get tight, and let it sit for a day. 500 miles later, no leaks or issues..

Do what you like for the fitting, but that was my cure-all. Worked like a charm. Thread tape is good for the heat, and the blue lock tite is within the temp ranges you'll ever see there. I just let the tape and locktite seal it instead of the torque spec. I was not happy to pull the thing apart 2 times after installing the turbo..
 

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I also under torqued the second fitting to 6ft-lb instead of 10ft-lb as per the instructions. I think 10 is way too much. I used loctite 592 thread sealant. Hopefully it doesn't leak.
 

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The dealer talked to the local rep today about the oil fitting. Rep says they are in the process of changing the required torque to 8.4ft-lb for this part. Seems like a random number. Apparently they are aware of a problem. They are sending me a replacement part. Hopefully they are changing suppliers.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just broke my fitting. Luckily I was able to remove the broken piece from the engine. Now I am on the hunt for a Russell fitting. What a chincy chinesium piece of crap fitting
 

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Just broke my fitting. Luckily I was able to remove the broken piece from the engine. Now I am on the hunt for a Russell fitting. What a chincy chinesium piece of crap fitting
Check out Swageloc, they make the best critical service fittings available. That's the only stuff we were able to use in the chemical plants where a failed fitting would kill the town down wind. I see they do have metric, but didn't know what size you needed.
 

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Check out Swageloc, they make the best critical service fittings available. That's the only stuff we were able to use in the chemical plants where a failed fitting would kill the town down wind. I see they do have metric, but didn't know what size you needed.
It's an 8mm x 4an. Russell fitting has too large of a nut. I posted the other fitting that worked. I think it was a summit. I feel your pain that fitting is defective.

Another tip don't overtighten the brass fitting into the air manifold. I damaged the threads a bit and had to run a tap thru them when I decided to change out the fitting with a tee for my boost gauge.
 

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Thanks a bunch for doing the research brother, this needs to be fixed from an expensive factory kit.
 

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I finished my install last night. I added gauges (AEM boost and oil pressure) and an Alba heavy hitter fly wheel. Goes like mad on the asphalt. The cooling fan comes on at a lower temperature than before, 185F, shut off at 175. Anyone else notice that? I need to put some miles on it to build some confidence that it is going to be reliable. In the back of my mind I feel like something is not going to function correctly. That partly comes from the frustration of the crappy oil fitting. I am going to make a quick run to the Dunes this evening and will report back. Here is a picture of how I did the boost gauge connection to the intake manifold.
114257
 

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Mostly prayed and crossed my fingers. 😁 I followed the instructions mostly. I didn't bleed the coolant well enough the first time. Use the upper bleed bolt right below the intake manifold. At first I thought they meant the lower bleed bolt on that same side. That didn't work so well. Watch your engine temps if they are jumping around rebleed.
 

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what was your start up procedure? Oil to turbo?
Coolant bleeding?
Etc. I should be done with my install this weekend.
I do not have the gytr turbo but i didnt hook up my turbo drain line, unhooked the coils and spun the motor till i had oil coming out of the drain. Coolant bleeding will have to be completed after it heats up and the thermostat opens.
 
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