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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey All,

I have a 2021 with a couple of mods that has degraded over the last couple weeks to the point of not starting. No fault codes.

I have about an hour on the SxS, got the GYTR turbo kit and a DLP pully-style alternator kit installed, and ran it at 200ft for about 15 minutes, and it ran great! Gobs of power, just jabbing at the throttle past 5k rpms and twisting the wheel is instant brodie. Love it!

I head for the hills for 4th of July weekend, and at 5000 feet it's not running great. Unload from the trailer and as it warms up past about 140f it wont idle. Exhaust smells like unburnt gas.

Go to load it back on the trailer 4 days later and it's barely running, wont idle cold, wont throttle up, smells like a serious rolling fire hazard. Barely get it loaded up under it's own power and get back to 200ft elevation.

I assumed it was some messed up map in the GYTR ECU at elevation, but it won't even start now at 200ft. Will fire every couple of revs, and will try and catch if I pump the gas pedal as I try to start it. Oil stinks like gas too, and I'll have to change it once fixed.

Here's a video for audio of trying to start it cold/sitting for a couple days, first two cranks is no throttle, third crank is jabbing at throttle. When it does catch partially, it feels like a violent, out of time catch, shaking the whole machine and almost sounding like a gunshot/backfire. I am in an enclosed shop area, so I could be playing that part up: 2021 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS with GYTR turbo no-start

I checked the Crank Position Sensor thinking that might be it, but it checked out at 520 ohms. I double checked as many electrical connections as my hands could reach with all the turbo crap still in the way. The no-codes thing on a fancy digital, ecu controlled CARB compliant system that wont start is irritiating me more than it probably should :mad:

My only mods that could affect this are the GYTR v1 kit and the DLP alternator(side eying it, as i guess it could have a failed voltage regulator and zapped the ECU, though I'd think the primary voltage regulator on the YXZ would cover any overvoltages of an additional alternator?)

Any thoughts? I'm hoping to gather ideas before I start the process of removing all the things I just installed 15 riding minutes ago.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Getting fuel pressure and spark?

What do plugs look like?
Turns out, idling at 5000 feet for 5 minutes was enough to completely foul all of the plugs. With this turbo on the car, plug changes are worse than on a Boxer engine.

Has anyone else seen poor fueling characteristics trailering from sea level to high elevation? The YXZ/GYTR turbo CAN'T be designed to run poorly and fuel foul the plugs in that situation, and I do that about twice a year.

Guess I need to do some calling around.
 

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i would look into a powervision or powercommander piggyback tuner and load a few maps onto it. from my memory, the turbo maps like 3000' increments. ive had a customer with similar issues (6000' issues) and he was able to get a secondary map that leaned it out and thats his "elevation map".
also if its the gytr turbo kit i would look into a new map regardless as the yamaha turbo map is still restricted in terms of performance, temps and limiters. Alba, Weller, DLP all have good maps for these cars and great customer support.
 

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Turns out, idling at 5000 feet for 5 minutes was enough to completely foul all of the plugs. With this turbo on the car, plug changes are worse than on a Boxer engine.

Has anyone else seen poor fueling characteristics trailering from sea level to high elevation? The YXZ/GYTR turbo CAN'T be designed to run poorly and fuel foul the plugs in that situation, and I do that about twice a year.

Guess I need to do some calling around.
Any chance you find any fluke here keep us posted. Heard of weird things like the Intake popping off, etc. This is pretty scary as while I do most of my riding close to sea level, which is apparently fine, another big reason I want the turbo is for the occasional trips at higher elevation. This past year went to the Rocky Mountains and was at 9,000+ft and this machine was an absolute turd, had to keep the gas mashed in 1st to have a chance making it up the mountain (dragging snow, etc). Pretty rough being required to do 15+mph on technical inclines when everyone else with belts is doing less than 5mph playing it safe, lol. Was really hoping this turbo kit was dialed in for elevation, it should be as that is a point of the Map sensor.
 

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i would look into a powervision or powercommander piggyback tuner and load a few maps onto it. from my memory, the turbo maps like 3000' increments. ive had a customer with similar issues (6000' issues) and he was able to get a secondary map that leaned it out and thats his "elevation map".
also if its the gytr turbo kit i would look into a new map regardless as the yamaha turbo map is still restricted in terms of performance, temps and limiters. Alba, Weller, DLP all have good maps for these cars and great customer support.
I thought some of these piggies simply adjust AFR targeting based on RPM/Throttle (not needing special maps)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Any chance you find any fluke here keep us posted. Heard of weird things like the Intake popping off, etc. This is pretty scary as while I do most of my riding close to sea level, which is apparently fine, another big reason I want the turbo is for the occasional trips at higher elevation. This past year went to the Rocky Mountains and was at 9,000+ft and this machine was an absolute turd, had to keep the gas mashed in 1st to have a chance making it up the mountain (dragging snow, etc). Pretty rough being required to do 15+mph on technical inclines when everyone else with belts is doing less than 5mph playing it safe, lol. Was really hoping this turbo kit was dialed in for elevation, it should be as that is a point of the Map sensor.
I'll look around for any weird issues, and the idle/off idle at sea level is a bit iffy, but the power while throttle is mashed is GREAT. I can't imagine it running this good at the sea floor at 10k rpms, but having an intake leak that makes it run so rich it fouls the plugs in 5 minutes at 5000ft elevation? I could see if it's trying to run a 3000ft elevation tune at 5000ft, that would be awful. Maybe the Alba tune is every 500ft or 1000ft?

I did find something weird, and I'll try to get a picture of it when I can get back to the machine this weekend, but the middle MAP sensor tube on the 3 bar sensor connecting to the manifold is slightly backed off the fitting, BUT there is a 90 degree angle fitting, and it wont push on any further. No idea why they designed it that way, it seems really dumb It doesn't show it in the microfiche, but it's on the engine-side of tube 11: 2021 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS SE CAL (YXZ10YCCMW) Throttle Body Assy 1 | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse

Yea, that's what I thought the point of a MAP sensor is. I know they are inferior to MAF, but they should basically auto correct for less air by pulling fuel? I also noticed there are two identical MAP sensors on the base non-turbo install, so I assume the system retained the 1bar map sensor for finer details on the MAP? Maybe the GYTR sucks at reading that and MAPs, and the Alba tune corrects for that?

I did just get a concerning email response from Alba just now about their tune and elevation:
Would be best to call in and get with Fernando. I do know the YXZ doesn't have an oxygen sensor to change between altitudes; the ECU is not the smartest.
 

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I'll look around for any weird issues, and the idle/off idle at sea level is a bit iffy, but the power while throttle is mashed is GREAT. I can't imagine it running this good at the sea floor at 10k rpms, but having an intake leak that makes it run so rich it fouls the plugs in 5 minutes at 5000ft elevation? I could see if it's trying to run a 3000ft elevation tune at 5000ft, that would be awful. Maybe the Alba tune is every 500ft or 1000ft?

I did find something weird, and I'll try to get a picture of it when I can get back to the machine this weekend, but the middle MAP sensor tube on the 3 bar sensor connecting to the manifold is slightly backed off the fitting, BUT there is a 90 degree angle fitting, and it wont push on any further. No idea why they designed it that way, it seems really dumb It doesn't show it in the microfiche, but it's on the engine-side of tube 11: 2021 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS SE CAL (YXZ10YCCMW) Throttle Body Assy 1 | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse

Yea, that's what I thought the point of a MAP sensor is. I know they are inferior to MAF, but they should basically auto correct for less air by pulling fuel? I also noticed there are two identical MAP sensors on the base non-turbo install, so I assume the system retained the 1bar map sensor for finer details on the MAP? Maybe the GYTR sucks at reading that and MAPs, and the Alba tune corrects for that?

I did just get a concerning email response from Alba just now about their tune and elevation:
Would be best to call in and get with Fernando. I do know the YXZ doesn't have an oxygen sensor to change between altitudes; the ECU is not the smartest.
Anxiously awaiting the results from your future call with Fernando…
 

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Definitely check your Map sensor connectivity or other install related potential quirks, it is absolutely critical that this is getting a proper reading or all is toast.

Map sensor (Speed Density) IMO is just as good as MAF, as long as the ECU is mapped well for all of the hardware and Density Altitude, especially if it has an O2 feedback (closed loop). The good thing about MAF is that it can better adapt to other mods, such as exhaust systems/etc., as the MAF directly reads the air volume coming into to the engine so has a pretty good idea of how to fuel it, plus the O2 sensor feedback (closed loop) also makes it very compliant. This is where the YXZ ECU becomes the machines achilles heal, as it needs retuned for any significant changes you make outside of the kits original design, and to top it all off it has no O2 sensor so it is an open loop ECU. All you have is a couple fueling tables in the ECU and a MAP sensor, that is it, so if one or the other is bum the machine will be lucky to even limp.

I can see why they'd say the YXZ ECU "is not the smartest" and for these reasons it seems like a very bad idea to not plan a WBO2 as part of your turbo install IMO.
 

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Definitely check your Map sensor connectivity or other install related potential quirks, it is absolutely critical that this is getting a proper reading or all is toast.

Map sensor (Speed Density) IMO is just as good as MAF, as long as the ECU is mapped well for all of the hardware and Density Altitude, especially if it has an O2 feedback (closed loop). The good thing about MAF is that it can better adapt to other mods, such as exhaust systems/etc., as the MAF directly reads the air volume coming into to the engine so has a pretty good idea of how to fuel it, plus the O2 sensor feedback (closed loop) also makes it very compliant. This is where the YXZ ECU becomes the machines achilles heal, as it needs retuned for any significant changes you make outside of the kits original design, and to top it all off it has no O2 sensor so it is an open loop ECU. All you have is a couple fueling tables in the ECU and a MAP sensor, that is it, so if one or the other is bum the machine will be lucky to even limp.

I can see why they'd say the YXZ ECU "is not the smartest" and for these reasons it seems like a very bad idea to not plan a WBO2 as part of your turbo install IMO.
Great explanation. Actually makes sense.
Does that mean that there is no sensor anywhere else that adjusts for altitude?
Was hoping for more of an install, plug and play situation….
 

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Great explanation. Actually makes sense.
Does that mean that there is no sensor anywhere else that adjusts for altitude?
Was hoping for more of an install, plug and play situation….
The MAP sensor should compensate for altitude, it uses Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) and ECU fueling tables to compensate fuel delivery. We are hoping OP finds some anomaly (ie. install error, broken part, etc) with his setup. If there is no anomaly then a new thread could be made to see if this seems to be a trend with fueling on a GYTR Turbo Kit at elevation, would be quite a surprise if so.

In other words this should NOT normally happen, but the YXZ has some limitations mainly in that it has no O2 sensor (open loop) to help trim up/down slight fueling errors that could result from many variables.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Spoke with Nate. He thinks my elevation issues are MAP related and suspects a leak somewhere, and told me to especially target the forward 1 bar stock sensor that I didn't even get near during the GYTR install. He doesn't think the GYTR tune/setup is as bad as I describe at elevation correction, and is concerned that any tune he sells me won't fix the issue. He seemed to think this was possible, even with my sea level idle and operation feeling near-perfect.

Thing is, I thought the days of spraying starter fluid around vacuum hoses were behind me...

I'm heavily leaning towards the buy once/cry once methodology and getting a MOTEC or some other closed loop, telemetry enabled ECU, especially after the FTTune learnings from Rob. I'd really like a non-$4000 solution though. But, if I had some sensor data I could read, ESPECIALLY if I could compare the forward 1 bar map sensor and the rearward 3 bar map sensor(something the ECU should be doing, and should throw a code if they read different?!?!?), then I could more easily track down a vacuum leak/sensor failure.

I haven't ran it past a 5 minute warm-up idle at sea level since changing the plugs(which of course was idling perfect). Guess my next steps are to run it hard at sea level(Pretty sure it's going to run great), and then coat it in starting fluid.

If the starting fluid doesn't find anything, and it runs great at sea level, then I guess I'll have to spend big bucks on closed loop or wait and see if my next 12 hour drive to St Anthonys dunes is going to be ruined or not.

Yay.
 

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Spoke with Nate. He thinks my elevation issues are MAP related and suspects a leak somewhere, and told me to especially target the forward 1 bar stock sensor that I didn't even get near during the GYTR install. He doesn't think the GYTR tune/setup is as bad as I describe at elevation correction, and is concerned that any tune he sells me won't fix the issue. He seemed to think this was possible, even with my sea level idle and operation feeling near-perfect.

Thing is, I thought the days of spraying starter fluid around vacuum hoses were behind me...

I'm heavily leaning towards the buy once/cry once methodology and getting a MOTEC or some other closed loop, telemetry enabled ECU, especially after the FTTune learnings from Rob. I'd really like a non-$4000 solution though. But, if I had some sensor data I could read, ESPECIALLY if I could compare the forward 1 bar map sensor and the rearward 3 bar map sensor(something the ECU should be doing, and should throw a code if they read different?!?!?), then I could more easily track down a vacuum leak/sensor failure.

I haven't ran it past a 5 minute warm-up idle at sea level since changing the plugs(which of course was idling perfect). Guess my next steps are to run it hard at sea level(Pretty sure it's going to run great), and then coat it in starting fluid.

If the starting fluid doesn't find anything, and it runs great at sea level, then I guess I'll have to spend big bucks on closed loop or wait and see if my next 12 hour drive to St Anthonys dunes is going to be ruined or not.

Yay.
So agree with Nate. Gotta be something silly that went awry on you out of no where, odds increase especially after a big "surgery" such as adding a turbo kit. Let us know what you find.

As for the Motec route, it is spinning in my head too. Considering the FTecu has been quite the investment so far but feel like I need to see if we can get anywhere with it first. We will see within a couple/few weeks if they are going to be able to define the GYTR ECU and I am optimistic it will go smooth. But then how much of it will be a pain to deal with WOT tuning thereafter is anyones best guess, and it could end up being a piggy + flash solution when said and done trying to home in on repeatable AFRs. Or who knows when get there may find the Motec could've cut out a lot of stops too, but who's to say it doesnt also cause some grief as well? Drivability is usually harder to tune for than WOT, so I'm leaning towards the Yamaha ECU's + FTecu (and maybe piggyback) being the best place to start.

I spoke with Nate and some other guys at Alba a time or two and all were great. I really like how forthright they are as well, especially when it comes to doing things right rather than trying to sell you something that likely will not fix the immediate concern, this is how I operate in my business as well. Unfortunately you need to follow a strict modification plan for those tunes to have much of a chance, otherwise customization is inevitable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So agree with Nate. Gotta be something silly that went awry on you out of no where, odds increase especially after a big "surgery" such as adding a turbo kit. Let us know what you find.

As for the Motec route, it is spinning in my head too. Considering the FTecu has been quite the investment so far but feel like I need to see if we can get anywhere with it first. We will see within a couple/few weeks if they are going to be able to define the GYTR ECU and I am optimistic it will go smooth. But then how much of it will be a pain to deal with WOT tuning thereafter is anyones best guess, and it could end up being a piggy + flash solution when said and done trying to home in on repeatable AFRs. Or who knows when get there may find the Motec could've cut out a lot of stops too, but who's to say it doesnt also cause some grief as well? Drivability is usually harder to tune for than WOT, so I'm leaning towards the Yamaha ECU's + FTecu (and maybe piggyback) being the best place to start.

I spoke with Nate and some other guys at Alba a time or two and all were great. I really like how forthright they are as well, especially when it comes to doing things right rather than trying to sell you something that likely will not fix the immediate concern, this is how I operate in my business as well. Unfortunately you need to follow a strict modification plan for those tunes to have much of a chance, otherwise customization is inevitable.
Yea, Nate and Alba were great. I'm just wondering about the sanity of investing money into what is looking to amount to me to be a major failure of a critical system, where an engine can carbon foul plugs in 5 minutes of idle with no code.

Without codes or sensor readings, I'm flying dark. It seems to me it could be one or more of the following: Vacuum lines to 1Bar sensor, vacuum lines to 3 bar sensor, 1 bar sensor itself, 3 bar sensor itself, ECU incomplete map/other ECU issues, and/or intake boot issues. The YXZ ECU is forcing me to run blind on this, where the MOTEC should give a lot of clues that would help me narrow this list down instantly, while giving me open tuning options, a closed loop system, telemetry, and more. I'd also hope a $4000 setup came with good customer support, but who knows I guess?

I've spent a lot of my life buying compromises and crying multiple times along the way. Thought this YXZ with the GYTR was no-compromises, but I didn't do my research I guess. I'm really, really done having camping trips ruined. Maybe the MOTEC is buy one more time, only cry one more time?
 

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Yea, Nate and Alba were great. I'm just wondering about the sanity of investing money into what is looking to amount to me to be a major failure of a critical system, where an engine can carbon foul plugs in 5 minutes of idle with no code.

Without codes or sensor readings, I'm flying dark. It seems to me it could be one or more of the following: Vacuum lines to 1Bar sensor, vacuum lines to 3 bar sensor, 1 bar sensor itself, 3 bar sensor itself, ECU incomplete map/other ECU issues, and/or intake boot issues. The YXZ ECU is forcing me to run blind on this, where the MOTEC should give a lot of clues that would help me narrow this list down instantly, while giving me open tuning options, a closed loop system, telemetry, and more. I'd also hope a $4000 setup came with good customer support, but who knows I guess?

I've spent a lot of my life buying compromises and crying multiple times along the way. Thought this YXZ with the GYTR was no-compromises, but I didn't do my research I guess. I'm really, really done having camping trips ruined. Maybe the MOTEC is buy one more time, only cry one more time?
Just as I said in Post #9 above, you really want a WB02 no matter what with any turbo or tuning setup, so may as well get one now. This wouldve told you right off you had big problems going on, as the engine should run closer to stoic around idle. Even if you get a Motec you'd want a WB02, so it is not like a sunk cost.

I do completely understand where you are coming from and is a big reason why sometimes it is best to just leave well enough alone, but most of us in our quest for more power are often gluttons for punishment. Eventually we do this enough and realize there are risks taken in such endeavors, I too have been there and done that.

Ideally you find something REALLY silly and it settles the woes here, I'm betting many thousands have this kit and surely the vast majority of them have worked well. If problems were all encompassing GYTR would've had to either fix it or pull the plug immediately on the product, and if they did not the Internet would be riddled with complaints.
 

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Hey All,

I have a 2021 with a couple of mods that has degraded over the last couple weeks to the point of not starting. No fault codes.

I have about an hour on the SxS, got the GYTR turbo kit and a DLP pully-style alternator kit installed, and ran it at 200ft for about 15 minutes, and it ran great! Gobs of power, just jabbing at the throttle past 5k rpms and twisting the wheel is instant brodie. Love it!

I head for the hills for 4th of July weekend, and at 5000 feet it's not running great. Unload from the trailer and as it warms up past about 140f it wont idle. Exhaust smells like unburnt gas.

Go to load it back on the trailer 4 days later and it's barely running, wont idle cold, wont throttle up, smells like a serious rolling fire hazard. Barely get it loaded up under it's own power and get back to 200ft elevation.

I assumed it was some messed up map in the GYTR ECU at elevation, but it won't even start now at 200ft. Will fire every couple of revs, and will try and catch if I pump the gas pedal as I try to start it. Oil stinks like gas too, and I'll have to change it once fixed.

Here's a video for audio of trying to start it cold/sitting for a couple days, first two cranks is no throttle, third crank is jabbing at throttle. When it does catch partially, it feels like a violent, out of time catch, shaking the whole machine and almost sounding like a gunshot/backfire. I am in an enclosed shop area, so I could be playing that part up: 2021 Yamaha YXZ1000R SS with GYTR turbo no-start

I checked the Crank Position Sensor thinking that might be it, but it checked out at 520 ohms. I double checked as many electrical connections as my hands could reach with all the turbo crap still in the way. The no-codes thing on a fancy digital, ecu controlled CARB compliant system that wont start is irritiating me more than it probably should :mad:

My only mods that could affect this are the GYTR v1 kit and the DLP alternator(side eying it, as i guess it could have a failed voltage regulator and zapped the ECU, though I'd think the primary voltage regulator on the YXZ would cover any overvoltages of an additional alternator?)

Any thoughts? I'm hoping to gather ideas before I start the process of removing all the things I just installed 15 riding minutes ago.

Thanks!
More than likely it was not tuned for 5000 ft and it ran way to rich. This probably caused the excess fuel to wash the oil out of the cylinders which has killed the rings. Fastest way to find out is to run a compression test.
 

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My 2016 had a RPM turbo kit installed and tuned by Weller Racing. One of the places I rode was up a mountain. I would start at 1,300ft of elevation and stop around 4,500ft without issue. Then I would sometimes take it to my Fathers cabin at 6,700ft of elevation. I never switched maps and I never had any issues with the tune or engine. I also rode it at Glamis multiple times. When I would go from 1,300ft to my Fathers place at 6,700ft, I would notice it would run a little rough at first but I NEVER worried about the engine or tune. I had a PowerCommander (I believe) computer and put 2,200 miles on the machine before selling it. I love my X3 but sometimes I still miss my YXZ.
 
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My 2016 had a RPM turbo kit installed and tuned by Weller Racing. One of the places I rode was up a mountain. I would start at 1,300ft of elevation and stop around 4,500ft without issue. Then I would sometimes take it to my Fathers cabin at 6,700ft of elevation. I never switched maps and I never had any issues with the tune or engine. I also rode it at Glamis multiple times. When I would go from 1,300ft to my Fathers place at 6,700ft, I would notice it would run a little rough at first but I NEVER worried about the engine or tune. I had a PowerCommander (I believe) computer and put 2,200 miles on the machine before selling it. I love my X3 but sometimes I still miss my YXZ.
Yep, this should be the norm as long as the MAP sensors are sending the correct signals to the ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yep, this should be the norm as long as the MAP sensors are sending the correct signals to the ECU.
Map sensors sending correct signals, or ECU doing the right thing with those signals. I don't have a code, which would make a person assume both MAP sensors are reading similar results. You'd have to be a mad man to have two map sensors, one 0-1bar and 1 0-3 bar, and not compare and throw codes when below 1 bar and reading differently.

I've bought a smoke machine capable of pushing 8psi and an intake cone. This should show/eliminate leaks. But even if there are no leaks(like i suspect), I'll still have to eliminate bad ecu/bad 1bar/bad 3bar/bad wiring, with zero telemetry and zero clues.

I think about a canned tune, and a dynojet PCV, and a custom gauge setup/custom screen, but it's a bunch of compromises and band-aids. I think I'm going to limp it for my last camping trip at 100ft(since its running fine), and the winter will be closed loop, open ECUs research.

I do wonder if I made a mistake with the SS, seeing as the ECU MUST be more complex and sending signals to the TCU that the 3 pedal doesn't. I was thinking, a guy should be able to buy the base Motec ecu for half price(or other cheaper solutions) and do the custom setup himself with enough time and energy, but the paddle shifters add enough complexity that some custom ECU solutions I see for the YXZ state they don't work with the SS.

And I do need to call Push turbo sometime this week and see if they seriously have an ECU at $1100 that works with paddle shifters and gives you all the goodies, or if it is a scam. I was figuring on spending 2k on the ECU/Wiring package would be reasonable, NOT 4k like the motec solution. $1100 seems like a dream.

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Map sensors sending correct signals, or ECU doing the right thing with those signals. I don't have a code, which would make a person assume both MAP sensors are reading similar results. You'd have to be a mad man to have two map sensors, one 0-1bar and 1 0-3 bar, and not compare and throw codes when below 1 bar and reading differently.

I've bought a smoke machine capable of pushing 8psi and an intake cone. This should show/eliminate leaks. But even if there are no leaks(like i suspect), I'll still have to eliminate bad ecu/bad 1bar/bad 3bar/bad wiring, with zero telemetry and zero clues.

I think about a canned tune, and a dynojet PCV, and a custom gauge setup/custom screen, but it's a bunch of compromises and band-aids. I think I'm going to limp it for my last camping trip at 100ft(since its running fine), and the winter will be closed loop, open ECUs research.

I do wonder if I made a mistake with the SS, seeing as the ECU MUST be more complex and sending signals to the TCU that the 3 pedal doesn't. I was thinking, a guy should be able to buy the base Motec ecu for half price(or other cheaper solutions) and do the custom setup himself with enough time and energy, but the paddle shifters add enough complexity that some custom ECU solutions I see for the YXZ state they don't work with the SS.

And I do need to call Push turbo sometime this week and see if they seriously have an ECU at $1100 that works with paddle shifters and gives you all the goodies, or if it is a scam. I was figuring on spending 2k on the ECU/Wiring package would be reasonable, NOT 4k like the motec solution. $1100 seems like a dream.

View attachment 121021
I'd not count on a code for everything, as mentioned by Alba the ECU is not really that smart. It probably is more likely to toss a code for things like "no signal", maybe not so much for a signal that is degraded or doesn't stack up entirely to what logic would suggest. Think mid/late 80's EFI programming here.

If you are surely thinking it is a GYTR Turbo kit (ECU/MAP) design error then I'd make a new thread, see if anyone else chimes in to see if they've encountered the same thing (ie. incapable of adjusting to elevation)? If they have not then you would have something isolated and otherwise rare. If they did they just sell the machine, or fix it and how? Make it SS specific if you wish. My bet is that if these kits universally had huge tuning issues at varying elevations that this kit would never have made it through testing, and at worst been pulled off the shelves until when/if the problem was corrected.

As for the standalone, especially on the cheap, that would be nice. But remember that buy once/cry once thing too, lol. Keep in mind I'm not far behind you on the potential struggles, just hoping my setup goes smoother for sure.
 
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