Break In

When I use to race motorcycles and shifter karts, one or two laps on a rebuild and hammer down ! Work well for me!

I plan on following the owners manual, lots of different parts and things going on in this machine.

By the book.

Sraight to Windrock.....easy in the AM, picking up the pace as the day goes on.

It is built to tolerance. It will only wear out from there. Most important thing is to seat the rings then vary the speed, temperatures and use all the gears and lockers

Seat the rings, then run the crap out of it.

Take it easy while loading it on the trailer and unloading. Pedal to the floor after that!!! Hahaha

Going to Sand Mountain. ��

No belt to worry about, hammer it!

Been using the Motoman Method for many years with zero issues.

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I've always did the drive it harder then the customer ever will with automotive engines on the break in,it's better if it fails on me then the customer(but it's never happened,knock on wood)

Well you do have to drive it in low for about 5 miles, never more than half throttle, and then, after letting it cool, vary speeds in high but never full throttle or the belt won't be broke in correctly.......oh wait, no worries about that anymore! Thanks again, Yamaha

This has forged pistons. It's been a while, but years ago when I switched from stock to Wiseco pistons on my dirt bikes, the break in process was long. IIRC, you started it up for a few minutes just to get the engine/piston hot, then shut if off to completely cool. Repeat several more times, adding run/ride time as well as change up the RPM's on each cycle. I'm curious if Yamaha will recommend something like this in the manual.

Heres what Yamaha recommends for break in. Look at the 59 second video.

Side-by-Side Owner Orientation & Maintenance Videos

....its going to be really hard keeping it under half throttle for the first 10 hours.

The way I always broke in my sxs's is start it n idle for a few minutes shut it down wait till its completely cool then I do my road heat cycles I drive it 4 miles out n back to the garage n let it cool completely n do it again for 5 times, when driving I DO NOT get on it hard n DO NOT keep it at the same rpms n NO MORE then 1/2 throttle, I always try to break it in on dirt roads or loose ground that way its not to hard on the new diffs n drive train gears ect. Heat cycles always worked for me. At 100 miles I change all oils engine, trans, frt n rear diffs n of course clean air filters.

BAMA BANSHEE said:

Sraight to Windrock.....easy in the AM, picking up the pace as the day goes on.

Click to expand...

YOU BETTER CALL ME IF YOUR GOlNG TO WINDROCK

I've always gone with cycling the engine hot and cold and nothing abusive for a tank of two. Can't wait to have a little fun.

XYZRider said:

I've always gone with cycling the engine hot and cold and nothing abusive for a tank of two. Can't wait to have a little fun.

Click to expand...

I use the "cycling" method of break in on my 2-stroke toys but I use the "moto-man" method for anything 4-stroke. I have always had vehicles that have consistently outperformed other like/same vehicles I've raced against and I've had zero motor failures. I will continue these two methods as I feel they work the best each prospective engine. Just sayin'...

TENNESSEE said:

YOU BETTER CALL ME IF YOUR GOlNG TO WINDROCK

Click to expand...

X2! I just live 15miutes from Windrock parking lot- so not much of a problem for me hooking up with anybody going there. I have about every rock memorized at Windrock so I plan to run more of twra trails from that side..