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Clutch Replacement 6000 miles.

5K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  fortrdb 
#1 ·
Okay here is what 6000 mile normal wear looks like. It measured out to 2.35mm & Yamaha says its done at 2.80mm. So when you see that little gear shaped trb code & it's stuck in gear & won't clear until you shut it off time for new clutch's. Also remember to clock the fibers correctly. ( At 1800 miles I added Weller HD spring & clutch mod with 45/15/10) ))gears
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#3 ·
I have 7400 miles on my 2019 SS SE, clutch is still very strong. I put 9K miles on my 2016 SE, all good there as well before I sold it. I expect my 2019 will go another 6K miles before I will need to replace. The shift logic used in the 2019+ SS, Yamaha claims results in 200% increase in durability for the clutch. In all the rough stuff I have driven my current YXZ (Moab 10 times) I have never slipped the clutch, not even once.
 
#4 ·
Mine rarely slips & I feel if it was a manual I could have gotten more out of those. It didn't always throw a code & lock up but sometimes I'm out 60 miles from nowhere & could not take a chance.
 
#9 ·
Just got done replacing a sheared shift shaft ( say that fast three times....lol) and when I got into it, the clutch was a bit scorched too. Over 8K miles on stock and would still be running it if not for the shift shaft problem. I digress....The clutch plates have a notch in one of the ears. The outer basket has a triangle and a circle marking on the ridge facing up/out. The manual encourages installing the notch on all the interior plates with their notch aligned to the triangle marking and the very last, outer friction plate to be installed with its notch aligned to the circle. I just took a ride in her after installing it and all feels right and tight again. So there is a clocking to the stock plates recommended in the manual.
 
#6 ·
Do the ss models also have that trouble code light? Mine has almost 5k on it and have never had a issue with clutch slipping. I do however notice the light stays on slightly longer at take offs than I use to rememeber it doing. It’s all stock but I think the previous owner installed gear reduction when it was new. I’m not sure the details but I’d love to know. I’m planning a trip out west in the spring for a couple weeks I guess I should probably do the clutch and oiling mods first to be sure.
 
#10 · (Edited)
BTW, that clutch looks to be in really good shape for 6k miles. Mine was similar at 5K during tranny rebuild on the other machine and still running that clutch at 10k+. I guess yours measured under spec, but even the scorched frictions in the clutch I just replaced at 8K miles were compliant to thickness spec with a thousandth or two or three of margin.
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#13 ·
#14 · (Edited)
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Didn't get all the way thru the vid, but you can see the marks on the outer clutch basket in this shot. The triangle is hard to see at straight up noon. It is subtle. The circle is easy to see very close in the picture and opposite the index finger. I would call that 3 slot offset from inner to outer frictions clocking.
 
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#15 ·
I wonder if that's just a reference point so that you will align them correctly. I honestly did not look for those marks & it works fine, almost 200 miles on it already.
 
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