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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

my 16yxz has code 12 which looks to be calling for a new stator and cps. Battery is fine, cranks but no start. I’m just wondering if this is a difficult job and if there’s anything I need to drop or take off in order to get to this thing.I’m sure some one has done this of course. I just want to know what I’m getting into. Thanks a bunch!
 

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Did a couple of them this year....lol. Nothing to tricky. If you have an aftermarket slip-on, that can help clearance quite a bit. I did loosen the stock exhaust up to allow the huge muffler can to be slid back. On the machine with Graves exhaust, there was no reason to mess with it. Do not remove the oil nipple at the bottom of the rear cover. It is not necessary. If you do remove it, be sure to use a new o-ring at that location. The cover will be resistant to removal due to the magnetic draw from the rotor. Do drain the oil completely before starting the job. Get the gasket faces very clean and I only apply a light layer of three bond to the cover side of the gasket and leave the other side bare. I think that is what the factory did too. Be sure to use some loctite on the stator mounting and cable retention bracket bolts. Don't want them coming loose. How many miles on your machine? I had one fail at 11.5k miles and the other at 12.5K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did a couple of them this year....lol. Nothing to tricky. If you have an aftermarket slip-on, that can help clearance quite a bit. I did loosen the stock exhaust up to allow the huge muffler can to be slid back. On the machine with Graves exhaust, there was no reason to mess with it. Do not remove the oil nipple at the bottom of the rear cover. It is not necessary. If you do remove it, be sure to use a new o-ring at that location. The cover will be resistant to removal due to the magnetic draw from the rotor. Do drain the oil completely before starting the job. Get the gasket faces very clean and I only apply a light layer of three bond to the cover side of the gasket and leave the other side bare. I think that is what the factory did too. Be sure to use some loctite on the stator mounting and cable retention bracket bolts. Don't want them coming loose. How many miles on your machine? I had one fail at 11.5k miles and the other at 12.5K miles.
Got it!

it’s got right at 4K so it was a bit strange to see but I guess it’s not unheard of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Did a couple of them this year....lol. Nothing to tricky. If you have an aftermarket slip-on, that can help clearance quite a bit. I did loosen the stock exhaust up to allow the huge muffler can to be slid back. On the machine with Graves exhaust, there was no reason to mess with it. Do not remove the oil nipple at the bottom of the rear cover. It is not necessary. If you do remove it, be sure to use a new o-ring at that location. The cover will be resistant to removal due to the magnetic draw from the rotor. Do drain the oil completely before starting the job. Get the gasket faces very clean and I only apply a light layer of three bond to the cover side of the gasket and leave the other side bare. I think that is what the factory did too. Be sure to use some loctite on the stator mounting and cable retention bracket bolts. Don't want them coming loose. How many miles on your machine? I had one fail at 11.5k miles and the other at 12.5K miles.
also, does the black hex cover in the middle have to come out too or would it just require the other hex cover bolts only to come off?
 

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You don't need to remove either plug, but taking the big one in the center out does give you a bit more of a finger hold for handling the cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You don't need to remove either plug, but taking the big one in the center out does give you a bit more of a finger hold for handling the cover.
got the bolts out, but I had one more question. Is the magnetic field supposed to be super strong? Hahah. This thing is on there good. Any tips for getting this off?
 

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The gasket is bonded, so you have to break that bond and then pull it straight back. Be careful not to mar the sealing surfaces as you break the gasket bond. There is a cast in tab in a couple places you can pry on or tap lightly. Once you break the bond, then pull it straight back as possible. It will fight you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The gasket is bonded, so you have to break that bond and then pull it straight back. Be careful not to mar the sealing surfaces as you break the gasket bond. There is a cast in tab in a couple places you can pry on or tap lightly. Once you break the bond, then pull it straight back as possible. It will fight you.
what I’m going to have to do is probably take a rubber mallet or something to it. This plastic plug seems to be rounded out, so getting that off isn’t going to happen if if doesn’t need to come off then I’m just going to replace it too when I get the cover off.
 

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That black cover does not need to come off. It is not holding anything.
 
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