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Discussion Starter #1
I'm kinda struggling with some of the standard over heating and excessive in cab heat issues and wanted to find a solution.

The only real answer for me was to relocate the radiator to the rear...addresses the mud-packing/over-heating issues and center tunnel, heat funneling effect.

I've got the stock cage with front/rear reinforcements, factory storage box, and spare tire carrier...all limit my options. There weren't any aftermarket kits that fit my needs, so I knew it would have to be custom.

I reached out to CBR and had them make me a slightly longer, slightly shorter radiator than what I have been seeing...10"x34", double-pass, with 3 9" Spal fans.

This allowed me to keep a bit more visibility out the rear without sacrificing capacity. I mounted the unit as low as I could without sacrificing cookie jar or oil dipstick deck plate access.

The Spal fans each put out about 700cfm, compared to the stock 840 cfm. I'll run the outside two fans on the stock circuit (with fan override) and the center fan on it's own manually switched circuit...kind of a back-up or extra flow if needed.

I'm also running a CBR overflow/recirculating reservoir...just looks cleaner in my opinion.

Made some simple split tube clamp mounts that securely position the radiator between the storage box and b-pillar reinforcement. I couldn't get it far enough forward to allow the box lid to stay up on it's own.. but it's close.

I'll work on routing the hoses tomorrow, but they will be between the seat and rear fender well...nothing will be exposed.

Anyway, few pics of where I'm at now...
 

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That's awesome,. How much you think u have in it. I was looking at doing the Hess kit with window mount , which Is basically what u are doing
 

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That looks great!
I recently had my yxz at Sehorn in Shawnee and was talking to the service guy (Matt) about a radiator relocate. He mentioned a guy having a custom radiator built. Just curious if that was you?
I wouldn't mind giving it a shot, but would probably just use the stock radiator to keep costs down. I've never attempted one before and love if someone would come up with a parts list of the fittings needed.
Sorry not trying to hijack your thread.
 

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Weller has relocate bracket for stock rad,. Takes up most your bed but brackets are only 100. You can watch installation vids and get an idea for parts and fittings. Shouldn't need too much
 

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Very nice I have the Yamaha box to & was trying to figure this out.
 

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Thanks Kildragon6
Looks like a nice set of brackets but it does use up practically all of your bed. Could build a rear bumper with a spot for a cooler I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That looks great!
I recently had my yxz at Sehorn in Shawnee and was talking to the service guy (Matt) about a radiator relocate. He mentioned a guy having a custom radiator built. Just curious if that was you?
I wouldn't mind giving it a shot, but would probably just use the stock radiator to keep costs down. I've never attempted one before and love if someone would come up with a parts list of the fittings needed.
Sorry not trying to hijack your thread.
Yea, that was me. There won't be any additional fittings to run the hoses where I'm planning, if it works out the way I'm thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Nice job!!!
Thanks!


I ran the lines today.

I have the water-to-oil Tubeworks tranny cooler and it's nicely mounted inline on the return line right on the front of the engine...didn't want to have to relocate that, so I cut both hard lines midship right after the clamps shown in the second picture.

I cut holes in the rear of the floor board behind the seat and covered all the edges (plastic and metal) that the radiator lines would run over with split rubber line.

Routed 7/8" heater hose from the radiator, down behind the driver seat, through the floor, and looped them back into the stock, fixed, hard lines. The temp sending unit is spliced into the feed line. The lines are between the interior floor and side skid plates...I am also running nerf bars that have plate running to the seam of the center/side skids. I've brought in FactoryUTV front, center, and rear skids that I will be installing also (no sides because of the nerf bar/plates)...the lines are well protected!

The hoses are one piece, roughly 7' or so in length, with no kinking and very little flattening the way they are ran.
 

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Where did you get those Split tube mounts. The only ones I'm finding don't have that great of reviews.

Did you CNC the brackets or get those somewhere? I like that mount setup the best so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Picked up the split tube clamps from a local offroad supplier...they're pretty straight forward, I wouldn't expect any issues from any of the suppliers/manufacturers. Google pulls up lots of options. You could reach out to Chad at Krash Off Road and see if he might sell a couple to you.

I just made the brackets from scrap I had around the shop...angle iron and tubing, torch and grinder.
 

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Seeing this thread makes me curious if I should just buy a HX from a CTS-V, lol. Nice setup, any feedback now that you have some seat time in it?

#bumpingalltheoldthreads
 

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Looks Great!
You said you used 7/8 heater hose. What size are the inlet and outlet on the radiator? They just look bigger than 7/8 in the pics.
Again Nice Job!

HDHP
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Seeing this thread makes me curious if I should just buy a HX from a CTS-V, lol. Nice setup, any feedback now that you have some seat time in it?

#bumpingalltheoldthreads
Sorry, didn't see this reply/question! The set-up works perfectly...airflow just from moving keeps the fans from kicking on most of the time. I'll switch on the manual center fan for slower trail riding and that will keep it under 180. Hard running in the dunes will cycle the two outside fans on and off...keeps it at 180-190 (reflashed).

Looks Great!
You said you used 7/8 heater hose. What size are the inlet and outlet on the radiator? They just look bigger than 7/8 in the pics.
Again Nice Job!

HDHP
Thanks! Inlet/outlet are 1" tubing.

Sidenote: I've since swapped the stock cage out for a BCF cage and welded new mounts into the b-pillar supports that lowered the rad a smidge more...it's about as low as it can go. Everything's been working perfectly!
 

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