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Just use an impact wrench with the appropriate size socket and overdrive the retention feature. The retention feature is the mashed portion engaging the axle shaft groove. It will come right off with a healthy enough impact. I use a 1/2" drive M18 Milwaukee with a 9.0A batt and it spins right off. I use red Loctite, sparingly, on re-install of the old nut.
 

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When I replaced my rotors, 3 of the 4 axle nuts came off with my 1/2" impact but 1 would not. After trying heat and damn near bending my 1/2" breaker bar, I finally got it with a 48" long 3/4" drive breaker bar that I borrowed from a mechanic friend. Sometimes they can be tough, but should break loose with enough leverage. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just use an impact wrench with the appropriate size socket and overdrive the retention feature. The retention feature is the mashed portion engaging the axle shaft groove. It will come right off with a healthy enough impact. I use a 1/2" drive M18 Milwaukee with a 9.0A batt and it spins right off. I use red Loctite, sparingly, on re-install of the old nut.
I got it off but I ran into another issue. I can not get the upper a arm to separate from the knuckle.
 

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I got it off but I ran into another issue. I can not get the upper a arm to separate from the knuckle.
Get some pressure pushing up on the A arm between it and the axle with a pry bar. Smack the knuckle where the taper of the ball joint goes in it with a small sledge hammer. The shock load will release the taper fit of the ball joint in the knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Probably easier to just remove the 2 lower a arm bolts and pull out and turn the wheel to get the axle out of the hub if your only changing the axle.
Do you know the torque specs for the upper and lower front ball joint? Also, do you know the spec for the lower a-arm where it mounts to the frame? I'm also unaware of how tight the tie-rod ball joint on the knuckle has to be.
 
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