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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you are not adding the alternator kit and want a dual battery setup and the stator is putting out a charge voltage 13.0 + I think this is the best way using automatic charging relay and then if the charge voltage drops to 12.75 it will disconnect from the aux agm deep cycle battery powering the led light bar and whips and this would save your starting battery and yes depending on the draw from the aux battery it would discharge but then in day time it would start recharging or if your charge voltage returns to 13.0 + it would reconnect and start charging the aux agm deep cycle battery again
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I was thinking this might be a future question so I added it :D

Lets say the charging voltage drops to 12.7 and we know the automatic charging relay will disconnect to save your starting battery from discharging so if you had a group 24 deep cycle battery with 75 amp hours it would run a 300 watts / 24 amp load for about 2 hours to a 50% battery discharged level with no charging source.
 

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Problem is, those Grp 24's are huge and weigh a ton!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Hi Scottdmax,

Ya everyone will want a different spec battery and what will work best for them I just gave the group 24 as example you can go with say a PC925L Odyssey 12v 330 @ 28 lb with a 28 ah which would cut your run time down if your automatic charging relay disconnected but it all depends what a person needs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks jfulps for doing some testing and sharing the readings you are like the first yxz rider making history on what we have to work with on the stock electrical system. :cool:

We now know jfulps is dropping to 12.3v at times he has ran out of amps to maintain his loads at times plus all the electronic will be working at a lower voltage specs than preferred under these conditions but his voltage would go back to 13.0 volts at times when most likely his electric power steering load was reduced.

Some yxz riders if they have added a 20 amp load like we think jfulps has ( not been able to test jfulps to the exact spec's ) they can get to a no starting condition it all depends on the loads and how much you are using the electric power steering when turning under a load = more amps demand plus having the diff lock on will also add to the load plus the amount cooling fan needs run and how many times you restart the motor.

Now you can go to dual battery setup to add more amp hours and this will help but just remember both battery's will run out of amp hours it just depends on the load and how long a person needs to ride under these conditions plus it will take longer to recharge both battery's to 100%

Now if you wanted to save the starting battery so you don't get stuck with a none working starting battery I would recommend to use a automatic charging relay with this setup to protect your starting battery it will disconnect if the voltage drops to 12.7 volts and reconnect when voltage returns to 13.0+ volts.

The best news is we have some amps to work with :cool: now it would be better to lower the load like a smaller watt led light bar and one whip if this will work for your ridding conditions.

Tips: when you get home charge your battery back up to 100% if they are below 12.7 volts or get a battery maintainer to keep your battery at peak condition.

I hope this helps my pals on yxz talk :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
SI-ACR Automatic Charging Relay Rated @ 120A

This model will close contacts @ 13.0V after 90 sec or @ 13.6v after 30 sec and open contacts @ 12.75V

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

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M-Series Automatic Charging Relay Rated @ 65A

This model will close contacts @ 13.6V after 90 sec and open contacts @ 12.75V

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7601/m-Series__Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_65A
 

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It looks like the alternator is inevitable in my case, I see no need to always be on the bitter edge. I dont run whips or stereos but I do run a radio and lights.

Great write up and I'm sure many will use it, I think ill save for the alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi Mckay,

If you are talking about the common SXS using two rugged radio setup with say charging a iphone 6 it would be about 6 amps or less.

Yep depending on how many led lights and wattage you need an alternator will give you the better voltage spec and more amps available plus the alternator will give you two charging sources if one had failed..... ( Now if a guy want to keep the amp load down a 15" led light bar @ 72 watts = 6 amps )

These are the voltages specs best to say at and higher voltage equals a better charge rate plus electronics and electrical motors work at peak specs.

Minimum charge @ 12.9v
Trickle charge @ 13.5v to 13.6v
Normal charge @ 13.8v to 14.1v

Enjoy Your New Wheels McKay :D
 

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Yes that's what I'm doing, I want a nice large margin of power. I'm not going to run football field lights by any means, but under voltage is much worse on electronics than overvoltage. I'd hate to burn up pumps, computers and so on. Both ways look to be a solution
 

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was thinking of making my own battery kit. At most I'm running a light bar. I have access to battery and cable at no cost so I figure why not? Plus I already have the trunk. What is the downside to just hooking the batteries together? I realize it doesn't isolate one for emergency but still you think there will be that much draw? Thanks
 

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Better yet, splurge for two high quality batts.. The Yamaha kit comes with a relay/isolator. If the secondary batt takes a crap, you still can start...
 
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