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2019 YXZ 1000R SS
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had my first fender bender. I'm a newer rider and wanted to ask for input to confirm no structural damage was done. Going too fast around a blind turn and hit almost head on with a Polaris General. I was probably going about 20-25 mph but I was able to break hard before impact. Most of the impact was on the YXZ stock front bumper. The Polaris had a huge bumper and it appears it also hit the right front a-arms judging by the black smudges. Some minor damage to plastics. Seems to me the front bumper did its job by collapsing and absorbing impact. Steering felt the same as before and I don't see any other bent metal.
1) Recognizing it's hard to diagnose from pictures, any reason to think there is reason for concern or take it to the shop for further inspection?
2) Now to replace the front bumper. I'd be happy to purchase someone's OEM take off. Or do folks find the aftermarket ones to be a a big upgrade, such at the Super UTV version?
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Looks pretty minor and I would say certainly not structural. Glad nobody was hurt. I always worry about that happening....If it drives fine, then I would not worry about it. I like the OEM Yamaha desert front grab bar. Fairly minimal design and you can get it with winch mount provisions.
Update: Appears that they do not make those front bars anymore, but found this one
 

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much stronger than stock and not a giant weight like some others. in stock and ready to ship
 

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2019 YXZ 1000R SS
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the input. To be honest, it pulls to the right when driving on the street, but did that before. Sad part is I paid for an alignment a few months ago because of that issue, and it drives exactly the same after the alignment. Shop said that's due to the crown in the road and normal. Seems to drive straight when on fire roads. Have others had the same experience when driving on the street?
 

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Looks good, maybe double check that endlink on the sway bar? The threads side look like they might be bent? They are not the strongest. It's a $35 part and easy to change with an Allen bit and open end wrench. Takes 15 min.

Can be crowning on the road... also can be differences in the psi in your tires? The only thing to line up is the steering tie rods.

Did you buy this YXZ used?

Next can be worn ball joints or bushings 🤷🏽‍♂️

Mine drives straight with no hands on asphalt on big horns. 🤷🏽‍♂️
 

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Thanks for the input. To be honest, it pulls to the right when driving on the street, but did that before. Sad part is I paid for an alignment a few months ago because of that issue, and it drives exactly the same after the alignment. Shop said that's due to the crown in the road and normal. Seems to drive straight when on fire roads. Have others had the same experience when driving on the street?
street is hard to gauge alignment not just for crown (which is a real thing, they are not BSing you). YXZ only has toe adjustment in the front, no caster or camber (unless you have aftermarket arms)
the rear is toed 1/2" out if memory serves correct, and off road this is a good thing since as you accelerate the suspension will load up and create more load on the rear. keeping the rear toed out means load will be applied more evenly to the rear. toe in would cause the rear end to want to push in, lifting the rear of the car and thus removing load from the tires.
tires for offroad cars also have zero QC requirements to be made and sold. there are massive discrepancies in moldings and since 99% wont get balanced (or cant even get balanced) you will usually find everything wrong with a utv on the asphalt.
pulling isnt too bad though it does give insight as there might be another issue, square. if one arm is 1/8" off (meaning closer or further away from the opposing tire, you are essentially fighting physics and it will want to turn on the smaller distance. always.
offroad these small discrepancies will never be felt due to the nature of the varying terrain. likewise, take a street car at even remotely close to the same speed you can drive a utv on a dirt road and youll see driving characterizes are vastly different.

i would run a string line around all 4 tires at hub height and see how it squares out. you have wider tires in the rear so take in to account that you cannot get a perfect measurement this way (unless you remove all 4 tires, remove the shocks and set the arms to static ride height with no load) but even with the tires on you can get an idea if the car is out of square (the distance between the back of the front tires should translate to the opposing front tire).
 
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