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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally made up my decision to turbocharge my 2017 instead of long travel. The suspension does amazing in the dunes and I feel that a turbo would be more beneficial. I have been doing a bit of research on different turbos from different companies. I am having trouble deciding which turbo go to with. DLP's stage 2 turbo looks great, GYTR looks like it's the best bang for your buck. My goal is to make it around 180-200 hp, with retaining as much reliability as possible. I bought this used and it came with a trinity stage 5 full exhaust and dynojet tuner. Will I have to pull the dynojet tuner out of the car? I am not sure how to proceed with tuning when I have tuner already hooked up.

I have quite a bit of questions but my main ones are how to proceed with the tuner I have currently, which kit do you guys think would be the best for a duning and desert application, and would I need to beef up my motor, clutch, transmission, etc. to make it ~190hp. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
 

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I highly recommend giving weller a call. I know their turbo kit was not on the above list but I have had great experiences with them and their turbo kit. I’m set up for 7psi and my car is fast with zero noticeable lag. It’s a small turbo so spool is immediate but it limits you if you ever expect to see 250-300 hp if I had to guess. Jason is very knowledgeable and gave me ideas of different power levels and their requirements, weak points at each different boost level. I don’t have experience with other turbo kits but for me and my experience I wouldn’t look elsewhere if I was to do it again.
 

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The DLP and the more budget/simpler turbo kits all use Air to Air for their intercoolers. It's pretty much been decided that the lack of room, lack of airflow, and heat soak from the motor makes A2A a bad idea on these. All the big power guys seem to be running Air to Water. It just makes sense, if you've ever put your hand over the engine in the back after warmed up, vs hand in the front under the shock tower.

There are lots of threads on New vs Old GYTR, and their advantages/disadvantages. I went v1 GYTR because, IMO, it has far more advantages, and I'm a power junky who rides dunes and I KNOW I'll need more power later. The GYTRv1 most people agree "comes on" at 5k rpm, and should be good to 300 horse and the v2 will spool 1-2k rpm faster but is only good for ~200 horse(numbers are crank, I believe).

As a quick disclaimer, I had a GYTRv1 stock tune, stock exhaust, stock everything and at sea level it was great. I went to 5k feet, and it ran so rich it wouldn't idle and carbon fouled the plugs. I came back to sea level, replaced plugs, and it ran great again. I moved to an alba Stage 2 tune and Trinity 5, and haven't had a chance to ride it anywhere, but I also added an o2 sesnor from AEM, and it does idle a bit richer than stoich at sea level.

My personal plan eventually is to probably get the Alba stage 3 with fuel injectors, and a build of my engine to target 400 horse, and run a 300 horse setup. Then eventually getting an aftermarket ECU. You already have to build your engine to go to ANY level of turbo power, so if I were in your shoes, I'd GYTRv1, go to someone for the engine build, and go to alba for the $1k tune and injector combo in Stage 3. Then you'll just need a boost gauge, boost controller, and fuel for your target HP.

The weakest point of all YXZ turbo setups is the open loop tuning, and the only solution to that is dumping multiples of thousands on an aftermarket ECU. That's a whole other discussion we're having in another thread.
 

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Has your motor had rods replaced yet? If not that is where you need to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As a quick disclaimer, I had a GYTRv1 stock tune, stock exhaust, stock everything and at sea level it was great. I went to 5k feet, and it ran so rich it wouldn't idle and carbon fouled the plugs. I came back to sea level, replaced plugs, and it ran great again. I moved to an alba Stage 2 tune and Trinity 5, and haven't had a chance to ride it anywhere, but I also added an o2 sesnor from AEM, and it does idle a bit richer than stoich at sea level.
When you had just the 1st gen turbo how did it run? Do you know the approx. boost level it had and a rough estimate of hp? I ride 95% dunes, all in Pismo which is sea level so I do not think I would have an idling issue since I am at sea level. Also if I go with the 1st gen GYTR can I keep the dynojet tuner already installed by the previous owner or do I have to pull that out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I highly recommend giving weller a call. I know their turbo kit was not on the above list but I have had great experiences with them and their turbo kit. I’m set up for 7psi and my car is fast with zero noticeable lag.
I looked on their website and there is a base kit and other kit with nearly a $2,300 price difference. But I cannot find any difference on the two kits. Which kit did you go for? Did you need to get a tune or reflash your ecu?
 

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When you had just the 1st gen turbo how did it run? Do you know the approx. boost level it had and a rough estimate of hp? I ride 95% dunes, all in Pismo which is sea level so I do not think I would have an idling issue since I am at sea level. Also if I go with the 1st gen GYTR can I keep the dynojet tuner already installed by the previous owner or do I have to pull that out?
I still have it, but I went with the alba tune for the trinity can+gytr. I haven't driven that combo yet but the gytr base was scary on dirt in 2wd, so I figure it will follow the usual formula and be fun on sand(scary/fun/boing on sand equals undrivable/scary/fun on dirt). Alba claims 200 horse(crank prob) after ecu and exhaust. Alba says, with their ecu, and some 500 dollar fuel injectors they sell, they will do up to 300 crank HP after building the 19+ engine(and obviously the 18- engines)

The reality is, most of these turbos are going to run within a few hp of each other without mods, and have the same basic setup. The gytr gen1 just has a bigger, more expensive turbo, nicer looking manifold, nice water to air setup that's probably good for 5% higher power than a2a guys, and is backed by Yamaha enough that they honor the factory warranty if installed by a "real" mechanic. There are a few minor upgrades from the gen2 that several of us on the forum are looking to add, that I don't know if you can add being pre-19(bigger air water cooler in front mainly). I'm also not sure how the gytr kit deals with the intake being above the engine, as I think it sticks out above the 18 and older deck. Something to think about.

It does depend on what the dino jet does. If it's a standard piggyback, then it will drop right back in to whatever stock-ecu based system you pick(spoiler, all of them). You would want to reset the piggyback to default, get a o2 sensor, delete the air inject, and tune from that. Or get the auto tune addon(might not work with your PC depending on age/model)
 

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Its the power commander V, any idea on what that's capable of?
I've read up on the PC, but I don't own one. Hopefully someone who's installed one can chime in, but it sounds like it adjusts fuel only, based on Alpha-N tuning with no barometric reading/adjustment(theoretically worse than the stock speed-density MAP tuning SUPPOSEDLY with Baro adjust, though I'm still learning on Alpha-N vs Speed density vs mass air flow). This is useful because you could tune out rough spots from other people's tunes, and a competent guy on a Dyno could help work through changes made to the system(more free flowing air intake, more free flowing exhaust, etc) and squeeze a few extra horse from the system, or find dangerous lean spots. Your old tunes on the PC are basically worthless once you go turbo though. And, in THEORY, if you have FTTune(like Rob is working on), power commander's only advantage there would be the ability to switch maps easier/on the fly(I believe PC comes with a dual map toggle, vs FTTune programming the ECU only while engine off).

It doesn't allow things like ignition changes, doesn't unlock fun things in the ECU like higher RPM limits in 5th, removing speed limiters, dropping fan-on temps etc, and it has it's limits on what it can command from a fuel injection perspective, and if you get a good canned tune you don't really need it, but it's nice that it's there. Also, the no baro correction would be fine if you stay at sea level, but you'd need to have different maps loaded for different altitudes.

My current plan is probably a PC5/6, maybe with auto tune, in order to be able to tune out altitude gremlins, or a standalone, in which case the PC is useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I just wish it was as simple as installing the turbo and not worrying about tuning and computer issues. I don't have much knowledge about tuning and seems very complicated to me. If I would go with just the GYTR/alba 1st gen turbo like you stated would I have to tune anything? I would think unplugging the power commander V would return it back to stock "tune", so installing the turbo and unplugging the module would result in a stock tune correct?
 

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Again have you done rods yet? If not you defiantly need to. Also, you need to check into a boost lock to make the clutch hold on an SS.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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I just wish it was as simple as installing the turbo and not worrying about tuning and computer issues. I don't have much knowledge about tuning and seems very complicated to me. If I would go with just the GYTR/alba 1st gen turbo like you stated would I have to tune anything? I would think unplugging the power commander V would return it back to stock "tune", so installing the turbo and unplugging the module would result in a stock tune correct?
I will be installing a 2019 gytr V1 on my 2021 3 pedal in the next week. This was taken off a customers yxz that a dealer couldn’t get to run right. But, it was a 2019 SS V1 turbo that had been installed on a 2020 SS. Supposedly this was a problem. I bought it at a great discount and had Alba tune my ECM for it. Hoping that all goes well. I will definitely report on its performance.
There are many out there without issues and we only hear about the ones with problems.
This altitude thing has me apprehensive because I will use it at sea level as well as 7k feet. Again, we’ll see what happens…
 

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I looked on their website and there is a base kit and other kit with nearly a $2,300 price difference. But I cannot find any difference on the two kits. Which kit did you go for? Did you need to get a tune or reflash your ecu?
difference is one has no exhaust with it past the hot side of the turbo and the other kit does. I built my own exhaust so I did the cheaper option. I have a PC5, they flashed my ecu and sent me files for my PC5. The fuel controller only controls fuel, their tunes come in 2k foot elevation changes where you can flip a switch to change fuel maps to adjust for large elevation changes. where I ride I can go from mid 3k elevation to high 6k foot elevation. I’m guilty of not yet having the secondary map switch but when running up to those higher elevations I’ve had zero issues. If I am going that high for a weekend I would just drop the tune in but when riding from low to high to low I haven’t had issues. The other direction I wouldnt do. If you drop down in elevation you are effectively leaning the car out. Pc5 has some neat options in it I don’t yet use, you have the ability for a 2 step pick your rpm as well as a option to cut fuel when shifting for a “no lift shift”. I have zero intention of shifting full throttle so that option I ignore. The two step would be fun to mess around with but I know that’s hard on valvetrain. Give weller a call and see what they have to say, I’m no expert but I’m a very happy customer
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
difference is one has no exhaust with it past the hot side of the turbo and the other kit does. I built my own exhaust so I did the cheaper option. I have a PC5
When you say PC5 does that mean power commander 5? If so that's the dynojet tune I have on mine installed from the previous owner.

Currently I have a trinity stage 5 full exhaust on. So if I decide to go Weller, I can utilize my trinity exhaust instead of going with the Weller dual exhausts?
 

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When you say PC5 does that mean power commander 5? If so that's the dynojet tune I have on mine installed from the previous owner.

Currently I have a trinity stage 5 full exhaust on. So if I decide to go Weller, I can utilize my trinity exhaust instead of going with the Weller dual exhausts?
If you already have the power commander 5 (PC5) you can use that with their turbo kit. As far as the use of your current exhaust I’m unsure of it. I bought tubing and welded my own complete exhaust from the V-band. You can add in the 3 bar map sensor if your PC5 is not already wired for it. If you wanted your car loud they sell a 45 degree exhaust tip for $200 that comes right off the turbo. If I want my car louder that is my next step.
 

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The motor is 100% stock with exception to a trinity pipe and tune. I am definitely going to do rods, just don't really know which ones yet. Are pistons necessary as well? With whatever kit I choose I won't go past 7 or 8 lbs of boost. Unless I go with this kit, Dirt Launch Powersports Stage 2 Turbo Kit: Yamaha YXZ1000R 2016-2018 it comes with pistons as well but that's because this is 12 lbs of boost.
If you are sure you will be happy with 7 to 8 pounds you can use the GYTR rods that are in the 2019+ cars with stock pistions. If you think you might want to go above that level you need to look at some Carrillo rods or something similar and lower compression pistons.
 

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here was my write up
 
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