GYTR clutch kit holding up; Any need for Boost Lock?
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If you ask on FB there will be no other solution aside for Boost Loc and many will say the GYTR clutch is a disaster, almost had me scared to even try it. I have no idea why the fuss as I installed it anyway and it works awesome so far (ie. only 250 hard miles on it thus far without a flinch).
Ultimately if you have some lofty longterm goals the boost loc maybe best to get NOW (it will preserve your OE clutch discs), but if you think you never will be running more than about 240hp then I'd just keep using the OE clutch until it gives with the notion that a GYTR clutch is in your future.
A thread I put about it all here:
www.yxztalk.com
Ultimately if you have some lofty longterm goals the boost loc maybe best to get NOW (it will preserve your OE clutch discs), but if you think you never will be running more than about 240hp then I'd just keep using the OE clutch until it gives with the notion that a GYTR clutch is in your future.
A thread I put about it all here:
GYTR Clutch Woods/Trail Friendly on SS?
Some of you maybe on Facebook, if so I put a post up earlier and man I feel that there is no love for the GYTR clutch based on their feedback. I am asking about ideal trans oil and all I hear is BoostLoc BoostLoc BoostLoc, I am sure that the product is great and I have not ruled it out if needed...
www.yxztalk.com
Good feedback. I didn't know if it was even worth running with the stock clutch but not much to loose burning it up first I guess. Doubt I'll ever be over 240hp so the GYTR sounds like a good fit.If you ask on FB there will be no other solution aside for Boost Loc and many will say the GYTR clutch is a disaster, almost had me scared to even try it. I have no idea why the fuss as I installed it anyway and it works awesome so far (ie. only 250 hard miles on it thus far without a flinch).
Ultimately if you have some lofty longterm goals the boost loc maybe best to get NOW (it will preserve your OE clutch discs), but if you think you never will be running more than about 240hp then I'd just keep using the OE clutch until it gives with the notion that a GYTR clutch is in your future.
A thread I put about it all here:
GYTR Clutch Woods/Trail Friendly on SS?
Some of you maybe on Facebook, if so I put a post up earlier and man I feel that there is no love for the GYTR clutch based on their feedback. I am asking about ideal trans oil and all I hear is BoostLoc BoostLoc BoostLoc, I am sure that the product is great and I have not ruled it out if needed...
Yeah some may say that you could do the oil drill mods to the OE clutch basket and it should help preserve the original fibers, but my thoughts were just that when it burnt up I was going to just put in the GYTR clutch and be done with it then. Guess it just depends on the how much you value your time and tinkering with it all trying to buy more life. Some have good luck with the OE clutch lasting after going boosted, personally I didn't but my clutch was likely wounded from a few bad scenarios I'd subjected it too in the mountains. If you were in a pinch and/or didn't want to invest much into it then going with the oil mods in the OE basket and getting new steels/fibers should barely hang on with a basic low boost turbo setup too.
I'd definitely recommend staying with a lighter 10w-40 oil, which Yamaha makes as an All Purpose (AP) oil and is what I'd always used up until my last ride after the turbo was installed. I ended up using the Motul Transoil expert brand with the GYTR Clutch setup, but probably would've went with it on the OE clutch too had I known it existed then.
How many miles so far? Do you dune much? The dunes put much strain on the clutch in higher gears; that's an excellent test.
I’m not far from Gordon’s well but haven’t duned since I’ve turbo'd. But in the next few weeks I’ll be going plenty.
machine is a 2021 with about 1400 miles.
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One trip on the oem Clutch in the sand and I can tell the clutch had slipped on some instances. It is the original clutch at 1700 miles... I have a heavy duty Alba waiting to be switched in.
Will the O.E. hold for you? Yes, prob 300 sand miles. From what I'm told from a friend overseas with a Weller turbo kit.
Will the O.E. hold for you? Yes, prob 300 sand miles. From what I'm told from a friend overseas with a Weller turbo kit.
My understanding of the boost loc is that it does ABSOLUTELY nothing UNLESS you are in boost, at this point it applies turbocharged boost pressure (whatever is generated via boost control) onto the clutches pressure plate of which causes the pressure plate to have more clamping force on the clutch discs (to keep them from slipping). Where my confusion sets in based on the above quote, is how in the hell does it really do anything positively better for the clutch when boost is not even present (ie. boost is virtually never present without any load)? Based on the premise of the contraption it should do literally nothing for "smoother clutching" or "eliminating jerkiness", but that would rather be determined by the condition of the clutch (and/or adjustment, oils, etc) itself.
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@RobBeck do you have a Boost gauge installed yet? I guess I can't speak for 'Turbo' applications, because at idle they may not read psi from low exhaust volume, or take longer to build up, but with my Supercharger it builds psi when I even tippy toe it, and between shifts the boost stays at 5psi or above between shifts.
Guess It's always in boost because it's being driven off the pulley, sitting completely idle and even then it's not in vacuum I think it's creating some minimal boost to be honest.
I've heard the wellers idle near me they sound like they're in boost at idle, if not right off the throttle cruising.
Boost Lok. It engages the second positive pressure is detected, it does not do that annoying half clutching of N/A SS. You can just tell. Speaking from experience myself and you can see others opinions posted on here from when the Boost Lok first released. Boost Loks Ive driven were @SonicRacing1 KT Turbo build and the other was @KraftWerksJason Supercharged YXZ.
Here's two videos of when I was testing my gauge because the first one was faulty. Boost right on tippy toe.
Maybe not in the desert or regular type terrain because you will get wheel spin or slippage but you will feel it in the Sand with paddles, with the added power the clutch will slip, you will see the clutch light blink at times when hard on the throttle in heavy resistance soft sand high throttle climbs or dune bowl riding.
Videos below, you can see my Boost Matches my RPMS basically 🤣🤣 gotta love the linear boost.
youtube.com
Guess It's always in boost because it's being driven off the pulley, sitting completely idle and even then it's not in vacuum I think it's creating some minimal boost to be honest.
I've heard the wellers idle near me they sound like they're in boost at idle, if not right off the throttle cruising.
Boost Lok. It engages the second positive pressure is detected, it does not do that annoying half clutching of N/A SS. You can just tell. Speaking from experience myself and you can see others opinions posted on here from when the Boost Lok first released. Boost Loks Ive driven were @SonicRacing1 KT Turbo build and the other was @KraftWerksJason Supercharged YXZ.
Here's two videos of when I was testing my gauge because the first one was faulty. Boost right on tippy toe.
Maybe not in the desert or regular type terrain because you will get wheel spin or slippage but you will feel it in the Sand with paddles, with the added power the clutch will slip, you will see the clutch light blink at times when hard on the throttle in heavy resistance soft sand high throttle climbs or dune bowl riding.
Videos below, you can see my Boost Matches my RPMS basically 🤣🤣 gotta love the linear boost.
boost gauge testing(1)
youtube.com
I have a boost/vac gauge and it reads both as I have it installed properly (post-throttle blade). Boost starts coming on pretty quick, but maybe none worthwhile if I am doing some light throttling on flat ground. It seems to spool well quicker than your vid? I am making wastegate pressure (6-7psi) with my huge GYTRv1 turbo at around 4.5k RPM at full load. I can not fathom any reason to need boost any sooner, as I never drive under this RPM range anyway.
My OE clutch engaged smoothly, no jerkiness either, as does my new GYTR clutch. Never had boost loc but don't see it making things any better there. Fluid choices and relative maintenance could play a huge role here.
Very seldom are you going to be making any boost (turbo or supercharged) while feathering the throttle on standard light engagements. While some light boost maybe coming on with some harder launches/half clutches, I'd say you have a massive chance of some sort of placebo effect going on here.
My OE clutch engaged smoothly, no jerkiness either, as does my new GYTR clutch. Never had boost loc but don't see it making things any better there. Fluid choices and relative maintenance could play a huge role here.
Very seldom are you going to be making any boost (turbo or supercharged) while feathering the throttle on standard light engagements. While some light boost maybe coming on with some harder launches/half clutches, I'd say you have a massive chance of some sort of placebo effect going on here.
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@RobBeck do you have a lightweight flywheel? It could be that, I do have it in mine. Placebo effect 😜🤌🏼I was breaking in the charger so I was gradually pressing the gas pedal through range as described in the manual for the Rotrex. On full stomps it goes right to 7 and to 7-8 at 7k rpms and above.
No lightweight flywheel here, have the stock one.
I'd definitely like to understand how the boost loc is making the clutch smoother and any less jerky, been around wet clutches for many of years and serviced many including my own recently on this very machine. I could be wrong but I am just not seeing how any sort of further clamping (at any level above stock spring force) from the pressure plate somehow makes a clutch smoother with all else the same, especially in most take-off scenarios were there'd be next to no boost to apply.
YAMAHA RECOMMENDS INSTALLING NEW FRICTION PLATES AND STEEL PLATES. This kit requires a total of: 13 friction plates (5YU-16321-00-00) and 12 steel plates (2H7-16325-00-00), all sold separately
I have 250 miles; still needed?
Think the GYTR steels are all thinner, so pretty sure you need them all regardless (think only 1 or 2 are the same in the OE basket). I’d prob just get it all so you can do the job, but if when it is apart you feel you want to re-use some few fibers (and maybe the couple steels) then just keep the extras toward a future clutch repack.
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