2021 SS SE, 2014 RZR 900 XP 4, 2012 EVO MR
Good feedback. I didn't know if it was even worth running with the stock clutch but not much to loose burning it up first I guess. Doubt I'll ever be over 240hp so the GYTR sounds like a good fit.If you ask on FB there will be no other solution aside for Boost Loc and many will say the GYTR clutch is a disaster, almost had me scared to even try it. I have no idea why the fuss as I installed it anyway and it works awesome so far (ie. only 250 hard miles on it thus far without a flinch).
Ultimately if you have some lofty longterm goals the boost loc maybe best to get NOW (it will preserve your OE clutch discs), but if you think you never will be running more than about 240hp then I'd just keep using the OE clutch until it gives with the notion that a GYTR clutch is in your future.
A thread I put about it all here:
GYTR Clutch Woods/Trail Friendly on SS?Some of you maybe on Facebook, if so I put a post up earlier and man I feel that there is no love for the GYTR clutch based on their feedback. I am asking about ideal trans oil and all I hear is BoostLoc BoostLoc BoostLoc, I am sure that the product is great and I have not ruled it out if needed...www.yxztalk.com
Yeah some may say that you could do the oil drill mods to the OE clutch basket and it should help preserve the original fibers, but my thoughts were just that when it burnt up I was going to just put in the GYTR clutch and be done with it then. Guess it just depends on the how much you value your time and tinkering with it all trying to buy more life. Some have good luck with the OE clutch lasting after going boosted, personally I didn't but my clutch was likely wounded from a few bad scenarios I'd subjected it too in the mountains. If you were in a pinch and/or didn't want to invest much into it then going with the oil mods in the OE basket and getting new steels/fibers should barely hang on with a basic low boost turbo setup too.Good feedback. I didn't know if it was even worth running with the stock clutch but not much to loose burning it up first I guess. Doubt I'll ever be over 240hp so the GYTR sounds like a good fit.
How many miles so far? Do you dune much? The dunes put much strain on the clutch in higher gears; that's an excellent test.No troubles whatsoever with the stock clutch so far on my 3 pedal after V1 turbo install. Where I ride is generally easy on the clutch.
Yamaha 10/50 semi synthetic oil.
I’m not far from Gordon’s well but haven’t duned since I’ve turbo'd. But in the next few weeks I’ll be going plenty.How many miles so far? Do you dune much? The dunes put much strain on the clutch in higher gears; that's an excellent test.
My understanding of the boost loc is that it does ABSOLUTELY nothing UNLESS you are in boost, at this point it applies turbocharged boost pressure (whatever is generated via boost control) onto the clutches pressure plate of which causes the pressure plate to have more clamping force on the clutch discs (to keep them from slipping). Where my confusion sets in based on the above quote, is how in the hell does it really do anything positively better for the clutch when boost is not even present (ie. boost is virtually never present without any load)? Based on the premise of the contraption it should do literally nothing for "smoother clutching" or "eliminating jerkiness", but that would rather be determined by the condition of the clutch (and/or adjustment, oils, etc) itself.What I can tell you from driving boost loks is the clutch engagement is so much smoother, no jerking, and quiet no slippage
No lightweight flywheel here, have the stock one.@RobBeck do you have a lightweight flywheel? It could be that, I do have it in mine. Placebo effect 😜🤌🏼
I'd definitely like to understand how the boost loc is making the clutch smoother and any less jerky, been around wet clutches for many of years and serviced many including my own recently on this very machine. I could be wrong but I am just not seeing how any sort of further clamping (at any level above stock spring force) from the pressure plate somehow makes a clutch smoother with all else the same, especially in most take-off scenarios were there'd be next to no boost to apply.Boost Lok. It engages the second positive pressure is detected, it does not do that annoying half clutching of N/A SS. You can just tell. Speaking from experience myself and you can see others opinions posted on here from when the Boost Lok first released. Boost Loks Ive driven were @SonicRacing1 KT Turbo build and the other was @KraftWerksJason Supercharged YXZ.
YAMAHA RECOMMENDS INSTALLING NEW FRICTION PLATES AND STEEL PLATES. This kit requires a total of: 13 friction plates (5YU-16321-00-00) and 12 steel plates (2H7-16325-00-00), all sold separatelyPartzilla has the GYTR clutch kit on sale for $699. Add the 5each clutch & friction plates for $850 total. That's $25 less than the retail for just the clutch kit yesterday of $875.
I have 250 miles; still needed?YAMAHA RECOMMENDS INSTALLING NEW FRICTION PLATES AND STEEL PLATES. This kit requires a total of: 13 friction plates (5YU-16321-00-00) and 12 steel plates (2H7-16325-00-00), all sold separately
Think the GYTR steels are all thinner, so pretty sure you need them all regardless (think only 1 or 2 are the same in the OE basket). I’d prob just get it all so you can do the job, but if when it is apart you feel you want to re-use some few fibers (and maybe the couple steels) then just keep the extras toward a future clutch repack.I have 250 miles; still needed?
I have a boost lok I'm looking to offload. I can save ya a bit of cashI'm getting ready to install the GYTR V2 turbo and figure a clutch upgrade is likely needed. I've seen a few people running the GYTR kits; are these handling all the HP? People happy with it? At what point is a Boost Loc needed?