[RobBeck]

Some of you maybe on Facebook, if so I put a post up earlier and man I feel that there is no love for the GYTR clutch based on their feedback. I am asking about ideal trans oil and all I hear is BoostLoc BoostLoc BoostLoc, I am sure that the product is great and I have not ruled it out if needed someday, but I've had this GYTR clutch for nearly a couple years and figure I will use it first. I mean it is GYTR, can it be that bad?

To date I have been using the OE clutch, no mods to it at all. It has been used hard but responsibly however it has taken some torture from time to time. Although I know not to half clutch there are times you just have to if you want to make it out of some scenarios alive lol. Especially in technical woods/trails/hills/climbs/etc.

That said I need a clutch that is smooth and I do need a clutch that can handle some torture, as it will be half clutched from time to time more than I'd like it to be. However I do not mind servicing a clutch, eventually, when it is needed. But I do want it to hold some more torque with my new turbo setup too, and was hoping to take this thing to around 10-12psi when said and done. I was thinking that the GYTR would do the job, so just wanting to see if there are any out there who have used it and what they think about it when it comes to slow starts, hills, even silly shit like pulling it on a trailer.

I do know that I'd always used the Yamaha All Purpose 10w-40 in my transmission, it worked well never had an issue. But right before this first Turbo ride I'd swapped the oil for the Yamaha Synthetic 15w-50 and the shifting and clutch engagement was much better. I am not sure if it was the viscosity or the synthetic blend that helped that along, but the improvement was clearly noticeable. On the flip side the clutch starting slipping the first time I went into boost in taller gears, so presumably my clutch was on its last leg and the new found torque was all it took to overtake it. I am not sure if the new "slippery" smooth engaging synthetic oil helped the clutch slipping under load along or not, but I am told it would not be a cause and that my clutch was just almost gone and that is that.

So here I am now with the GYTR Clutch setup, I am told it is too grippy, and it is going to cause me grief especially for my riding style, and to go boostlock instead of wasting my time with this GYTR clutch. But I'd really like to use this thing, as I have also heard some find it works awesome. I cant help but think it should work awesome, and if it is in fact a bit grippy maybe using a lighter viscosity synthetic would help contain those "grippy" manners? Hopefully it is a solid setup like it is advertised, but most the FB crowd really seem to think it is a bum setup for anything but high speed racing it seems. Anyone out there have any direct personal feedback on this thing?

After a bunch of looking around I believe this is the oil I'll be using with the GYTR Clutch:

MOTUL TRANSOIL EXPERT 10W-40 - Motul

MOTUL TRANSOIL EXPERT 10W-40 - Motul

www.motul.com

 

[YumaYXZ]

Rob, you know I’m no expert but I read up on the GYTR clutch and I see no reason not to use it. Seems to be just the ticket for your future plans. Heavy duty for sure.

Would be great if someone with real experience could chime in.

 

[RobBeck]

Rob, you know I’m no expert but I read up on the GYTR clutch and I see no reason not to use it. Seems to be just the ticket for your future plans. Heavy duty for sure.

Would be great if someone with real experience could chime in.

I did a bit more research on the forums and see responses that say things like "smoother than the OE clutch", "been great and is holding 200hp no problem", etc. I am just going to run with it and maybe regret it later, or maybe not. I am not looking for a 400hp end goal here, maybe 200-225hp tops, really just want it to be smooth engagement and hold quite a bit more torque. As it is advertised it is exactly what I am looking for and is why I'd bought it.

 

[PoisonFraction]

I look forward to your review. When do you plan to install it? I have this upgrade on my list and wanted to do it when my crawl box arrives.

 

[RobBeck]

I look forward to your review. When do you plan to install it? I have this upgrade on my list and wanted to do it when my crawl box arrives.

You still using the OE clutch and its hanging in there eh? Mine was probably hurt as I have not been easy on it (on occasion), but the boost was all it took to immediately cause slipping as it seemed perfectly fine prior.

I am probably going to install the GYTR clutch within the next week or two. I am pretty excited to see how it goes myself. Despite hearing some bad things on FB and everyone pushing the boostloc, I just have a hard time imagining this thing being as bad as what that group suggests. Also I feel a clutch that allows some slip but can hold the extra torque could even be beneficial with the drivetrain, as something that doesn't allow any slip on "shock" is asking for broken parts. Time will tell here in a bit how it all goes, first and foremost I just hope it is smooth as stock (or at least very close to it), next up is that it holds my current torque well.

 

[leadmic]

You still using the OE clutch and its hanging in there eh? Mine was probably hurt as I have not been easy on it (on occasion), but the boost was all it took to immediately cause slipping as it seemed perfectly fine prior.

I am probably going to install the GYTR clutch within the next week or two. I am pretty excited to see how it goes myself. Despite hearing some bad things on FB and everyone pushing the boostloc, I just have a hard time imagining this thing being as bad as what that group suggests. Also I feel a clutch that allows some slip but can hold the extra torque could even be beneficial with the drivetrain, as something that doesn't allow any slip on "shock" is asking for broken parts. Time will tell here in a bit how it all goes, first and foremost I just hope it is smooth as stock (or at least very close to it), next up is that it holds my current torque well.

I read on the Yamaha website that the GYTR clutch held 32.8% better than the stock clutch on the SS. So I guess there are three questions that need to be asked. One, how much power will the stock clutch hold under normal working conditions? Second how much power is your turbo making above that? Third is that number above 32.8%? The numbers say this clutch will hold 36 horsepower more than the stock clutch which would be around 146 horsepower, so how much more is the clutch good for over that number? The reason everyone is pushing the boostloc (myself included) is it has been tested at 450 horsepower so it's one and done. You have talked about adding more boost yourself so how much do you dare add with the GYTR? Also how reliable will the GYTR be?

 

[RobBeck]

I read on the Yamaha website that the GYTR clutch held 32.8% better than the stock clutch on the SS. So I guess there are three questions that need to be asked. One, how much power will the stock clutch hold under normal working conditions? Second how much power is your turbo making above that? Third is that number above 32.8%? The numbers say this clutch will hold 36 horsepower more than the stock clutch which would be around 146 horsepower, so how much more is the clutch good for over that number? The reason everyone is pushing the boostloc (myself included) is it has been tested at 450 horsepower so it's one and done. You have talked about adding more boost yourself so how much do you dare add with the GYTR? Also how reliable will the GYTR be?

Clutch holding capacity is generally based on torque. To be honest I am not 100% on what the OE clutch holds torque wise, nor even the torque of a stock machine, but it does seem a healthy OE clutch will hold a GYTR Turbo'd cars torque (perhaps just barely). So my hope is that the ~33% better torque holding capacity is enough to buy both some overhead alongside hold the additional few psi boost I will be tossing at this thing eventually. I certainly will never be anywhere north of 225-250hp (10-12psi?), but if I do get that crazy it is pretty clear the boost lock would be needed. I feel as that its GYTR it will likely be very reliable, easily as reliable as an OE setup, but with better torque holding capacity. Also as far as I understand the boost loc, is that it could be added to this clutch as well (if ever needed); and some reviews I've read have said the GYTR clutch (which uses the OE spring) is actually SMOOTHER than stock. As I can not seem to find straight answers amidst mostly contradictory viewpoints, I am just going to try it out and see firsthand.

 

[RobBeck]

It is also worth mentioning (could've been a decent factor in my 1,300 mile clutch not being able to hold the first time in boost) is that it was 20'ish* outside AND I had just put the thicker Yamaha synthetic 15w-50 in it (wasn't thinking things through apparently). Using a 10w-40 (or lighter) probably would've given the discs a better fighting chance, especially having the stock OE basket without any drill holes to help prevent the center discs from cooking themselves. Anyway I have some of that Motul transoil expert 10w-40 on the way which I will be trying out first with the new GYTR setup.

 

[PoisonFraction]

You still using the OE clutch and its hanging in there eh? Mine was probably hurt as I have not been easy on it (on occasion), but the boost was all it took to immediately cause slipping as it seemed perfectly fine prior.

I am probably going to install the GYTR clutch within the next week or two. I am pretty excited to see how it goes myself. Despite hearing some bad things on FB and everyone pushing the boostloc, I just have a hard time imagining this thing being as bad as what that group suggests. Also I feel a clutch that allows some slip but can hold the extra torque could even be beneficial with the drivetrain, as something that doesn't allow any slip on "shock" is asking for broken parts. Time will tell here in a bit how it all goes, first and foremost I just hope it is smooth as stock (or at least very close to it), next up is that it holds my current torque well.

Correct I am running the OE clutch. I have never felt it slipping (knock on wood). I push it hard at times mostly running sand for extended steep climbs. I am running 30" tires. I also do a fair amount of rock crawling as well. Crawling in a YXZ is not really crawling as I am awalys keeping the speed up to avoid slipping the clutch. I figure its just a matter of time before it goes. I really want to do the GYTR clutch so I hope your review is positive. I have had my crawl box on order for over a year and am waiting for it to arrive so I can do both jobs at the same time.

 

[RobBeck]

Correct I am running the OE clutch. I have never felt it slipping (knock on wood). I push it hard at times mostly running sand for extended steep climbs. I am running 30" tires. I also do a fair amount of rock crawling as well. Crawling in a YXZ is not really crawling as I am awalys keeping the speed up to avoid slipping the clutch. I figure its just a matter of time before it goes. I really want to do the GYTR clutch so I hope your review is positive. I have had my crawl box on order for over a year and am waiting for it to arrive so I can do both jobs at the same time.

Still good news to hear that some with OE clutches are holding up! How many miles on your clutch? What oil are you running in the trans? I was hoping mine would hang in there as I've read that they do well for many, but I did have the following things going on with my setup:
1) 1,300 mile clutch and I too try to keep the speed up and the clutch half clutching as minimal as possible.
2) Had occasions of rough half clutching but I am certain I hurt it bad when on some ridiculous mountain trails we were on a year ago (lot of snow, stuck multiple times, and had to do what I had to do lol).
3) Still seemed good after the above, numerous rides and no slipping, also added 30's after the mountain trip (still was N/A).
4) Added GYTR turbo kit and swapped trans oil, moving from the always used Yamaha All Purpose 10w-40 to the Yamaha Synthetic 15w-50 (first ride was also in 20* weather). Really wonder if I had not went with the thicker oil, especially in that brutally cold weather, if it had changed anything. Especially given that the OE basket is known for poor oiling to the center discs as it is.

Can't wait to hear about experiences with the crawl box, it is on my radar, just would like to ensure it is not adding a weak point and that all the bugs are worked out before purchasing.

 

[PoisonFraction]

I have around 1200 miles. (during the winter it stays at my property in Sandhollow so I am not 100% sure). I run the yamaha 10w-40 oil and change it yearly.

From my discussions with Ron at Crawl Box, the only weak point they have had is with the electric actuator which is out of their control. They claim to have their box in high horse power machines with no failures outside of the actuator. They are switching to pneumatic or hydraulic operation. Pneumatic could be cool because you would have an on board compressor you could use. I talked to them two months ago and they were still sorting it out. It has been a bit frustrating but they always pick up the phone when I call.

 

[RobBeck]

I have around 1200 miles. (during the winter it stays at my property in Sandhollow so I am not 100% sure). I run the yamaha 10w-40 oil and change it yearly.

From my discussions with Ron at Crawl Box, the only weak point they have had is with the electric actuator which is out of their control. They claim to have their box in high horse power machines with no failures outside of the actuator. They are switching to pneumatic or hydraulic operation. Pneumatic could be cool because you would have an on board compressor you could use. I talked to them two months ago and they were still sorting it out. It has been a bit frustrating but they always pick up the phone when I call.

Sounds like we have a very similar scenario (same exact car, setup, mileage, etc.); and my car was always pretty solid with that regular Yamaha AP 10w-40 too. With how much "smoother" it felt (clutch operation and gear changes) with that heavier synthetic, I still have this feeling that the thicker stuff in the brutal cold helped seal my clutches fate (but may just be coincidence). However I can not emphasize enough how extremely noticeable it was with that new oil, I'd never have felt that much smoothness ever, and while it was always very tolerable it was much clunkier before. That said would be very interesting if your clutch starting slipping if went to the Yamaha Synthetic 15w-50 too, not that you'd probably want to try it lol. Anyway based on you and many others I feel the OE clutch when new (ie. in the right health and maybe with the right oils) has the torque to handle a GYTR turbo car, so the 33% more capacity should be a huge amount of overhead.

As for the crawl box discussion and problems, I'd consider that a big one on the shift actuator. While it may be out of their control, the overall product is still something they sell as an assembly and I would not care about who's fault it is but rather that I'd need it to work (without any significant chance of fail). I'd read some other things in all of my random reads, some kinda cryptic, one making odd noises (maybe only while in standard gears?), things that were concerning. Surely some others I have forgotten, but it has not seemed seamless from what I've gathered. Would be cool for the owner to come over and start a thread and discuss what testing has brought about, problems found and resolutions, where they think they are at today, etc. Developing stuff isn't always a cake walk, more often than not it is a steep learning curve, all I know is that I am not interested in testing anything (I don't need one that bad lol) but if it was something that I could install and have installed for those "just in case" moments then I'd be in. There is no doubt it would come in handy, it would be a clutch saver on very technical low speed areas without question, it's certainly very enticing.

 

[PoisonFraction]

Agree on the crawl box shift actuator. However, thats why they are changing the design so they can control it and stand behind their product. The odd noise is a low gear whine when running in standard gears. I don't consider this an issue for me. I am all in just waiting for delivery. I will provide testing and a review if I ever get one. I really don't want to give up my stock gearing but want to be able to rock crawl (at less than 8mph) with this machine. I have a KRX4 that I am building out as well. It is great for crawling and hauling the kids around but is nowhere near as fun to drive as the YXZ.

 

[leadmic]

George Lemont of Avid is running the crawl box in the two cars he is entering in the King of the hammers race this year. He will be using an air shifter for the actuator and onboard air. If it holds up in that race in those turbo cars the rest of us should be fine with them.

 

[RobBeck]

George Lemont of Avid is running the crawl box in the two cars he is entering in the King of the hammers race this year. He will be using an air shifter for the actuator and onboard air. If it holds up in that race in those turbo cars the rest of us should be fine with them.

Yeah I saw that on Facebook, definitely will be good datapoint.

Agree on the crawl box shift actuator. However, thats why they are changing the design so they can control it and stand behind their product. The odd noise is a low gear whine when running in standard gears. I don't consider this an issue for me. I am all in just waiting for delivery. I will provide testing and a review if I ever get one. I really don't want to give up my stock gearing but want to be able to rock crawl (at less than 8mph) with this machine. I have a KRX4 that I am building out as well. It is great for crawling and hauling the kids around but is nowhere near as fun to drive as the YXZ.

As long as the odd noise is not terribly loud and annoying, or causing some exponential wear on components, etc.; would not be much of an issue for me either. Overall I'd probably use the crawl gears in far less than 10% of my riding, so that is why it would need to be very well ironed out (and not inviting in more potential problems) before I'd jump aboard. For now as long as I can maintain about 5-6mph or above my machine works pretty well. Looking forward to hearing your honest impressions as soon as you get in installed.

 

[PoisonFraction]

George Lemont of Avid is running the crawl box in the two cars he is entering in the King of the hammers race this year. He will be using an air shifter for the actuator and onboard air. If it holds up in that race in those turbo cars the rest of us should be fine with them.

This got me excited so I called Ron with crawl box to discuss. If everything goes good with these two cars at king of hammers they will start production up with this version. I asked him about clutching and he said the high HP cars are using boost loc with the OE clutch. In his 4 seater YXZ, with 35inch tires, he is running the GTYR clutch since 2018 and it has work very well. He recommended for my build to run the stock clutch until it goes out and then replace it with the GYTR, if I am staying around the 200hp level. He says the crawl box will save your clutch if used as intended, which makes sense. I think of the times I have abused my clutch and its always because I needed a lower gear. To date they have produced 42 boxes and all of them are running. They are shipping new air actuators to replace the electric ones in these units.

 

[RobBeck]

This got me excited so I called Ron with crawl box to discuss. If everything goes good with these two cars at king of hammers they will start production up with this version. I asked him about clutching and he said the high HP cars are using boost loc with the OE clutch. In his 4 seater YXZ, with 35inch tires, he is running the GTYR clutch since 2018 and it has work very well. He recommended for my build to run the stock clutch until it goes out and then replace it with the GYTR, if I am staying around the 200hp level. He says the crawl box will save your clutch if used as intended, which makes sense. I think of the times I have abused my clutch and its always because I needed a lower gear. To date they have produced 42 boxes and all of them are running. They are shipping new air actuators to replace the electric ones in these units.

Exactly! That crawl box definitely would've been used in every scenario I'd put my clutch through the hell I did to get out of whatever jam I was in at the moment lol.

Great to hear he has had great luck with the GYTR clutch, even to the point of recommending it for you too. This was where my thinking was at in that it should be sufficient for my power goals, so as long as it operates smoothly it should be great.