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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Finally installed my GYTRv1 turbo setup last month that had been sitting in a box for a couple years. The install took quite a long time, but I'm a weirdo and like to do many things my own way. All in all it was a very nice kit and I'd say the biggest thing I ended up doing differently were:
1) Added in the GYTRv2 Heat Exchanger/Fan setup (with some control logic)
2) Using better quality clamps, hosing, and fastening hardware in some areas
3) Putting the IC pump up front for easier bleeding
4) Installing gauges (boost with controller, WB02, IC coolant temp, Fuel Pressure)
5) Used stainless vacuum tees instead of the plastic in numerous places
6) Added a Turbosmart Diverter Valve
7) Internal exhaust manifold massaging (ie. low level smoothing/porting)
8) Turbo wastegate flapper hole size massaging/size increase for better flow and less chance of boost creep when adding custom exhaust in future
9) Weller manifold hold down brackets

After all the work I was a bit worried about drivability or other issues. All in all the car took a lot of abuse over a 200 mile woods ride and had no issues and drove like a stock car on steroids. FREAKING love it.

Couple issues encountered:
1) The 1,300 mile OE stock clutch (Not modified at all) ended up slipping the first time into boost in the taller gears (ie. 4th, 5th). 1st and 2nd gears still seemed to work ok, 3rd is when the slipping become a bit noticeable but was terrible upward of that. I had been running Yamaha All Purpose 10w-40 in the trans its entire life, but swapped to Yamaha Full Synthetic 15w-50 just before this first ride. It shifted and clutched a lot smoother with the new oil but it does make me wonder if using the original stuff would've faired any better with the boost.
2) The GYTRv1 rear mounted coolant expansion I'd still retained, even though I'd gone with the GYTRv2 Heat exchanger setup up front. Topping off the system did end up with some coolant loss from that rear fill point, so using some sort of reservoir maybe in order, or just deal with it not being completely filled.

All in all the car did very well. Even just that partial throttle feel at very low boost (ie. sub 3psi) is simply a game changer. Driving on the rev limiter is not a need anymore, now you can always run taller gears and the torque has your back. Stock manners all still there, but it now loves having a load. The boost comes on great even with the very large GYTRv1 GT2860RS turbo too, so if it is laggy to some I will say even for my technical woods riding it seems to work very well. One of my biggest gripes with my 2019 was that going from even 1st rev limiter to 2nd would end with bogging, especially when on ascents, and it was always a question of leaving it in first and hang on the limiter or go ahead and deal with the bog in 2nd. Not a concern anymore, the thing just rips everywhere now in comparison, even at the measly 6-7psi on stock exhaust.

Next up is to add the GYTR Clutch setup. I may go back to the 10w-40 oil but need to do a bit of homework there yet, as the feel with the Synthetic 15w-50 was definitely smoother, but I have a feeling that smoothness could've lead to a stronger likelihood of slipping.

After that gets a few rides on it then I'm going to be adding exhaust, initially with no other changes, to see how it affects drivability (and A/F, etc). Then add in a return style fuel system (upgraded 190lph HP fuel pump, sidewinder FPR) and slightly bump the boost. It does so well where it is at I am hesistant to do much more but I feel getting to 10-12psi would be a lot more fun so we will see. I also have sidewinder injectors that may need to go in as well, at which point I am definitely going to be digging into FTecu or seeing if there is any aftermarket tuning support for my particular combo of parts (doubtful).

Hope this helps others who maybe in the same boat, I spent a long time researching for this project, and was many times tempted to just sell the machine and go to the dark side. BUT the driving experience of the YXZ and its gearbox just cant be matched, so every time those thoughts came I kicked them back out pretty quick. During this weekend 200 mile aggressive woods ride, countless times I had goose pimples, the driving experience was just that damn good. Very happy turbo YXZ owner here without a doubt.
 

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Sounds like a great setup. Are you on stock compression? 12PSI on stock compression It's pushing the limit on stock internals, but is a lot of fun! Sometimes I wish I rebuilt my engine with stock compression so that I could retain the Torque. I also had a problem with the GYTR reservoir, so I added a expansion tank on the custom intercooler I put up front. So true, nothing like a boosted yxz!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like a great setup. Are you on stock compression? 12PSI on stock compression It's pushing the limit on stock internals, but is a lot of fun! Sometimes I wish I rebuilt my engine with stock compression so that I could retain the Torque. I also had a problem with the GYTR reservoir, so I added a expansion tank on the custom intercooler I put up front. So true, nothing like a boosted yxz!
Yes sir I have a 100% 2019 stock engine. I didn't realize 12+psi posed any risk on stock compression, is that common knowledge I've overlooked? I am sure octane becomes a big issue the more and more things are pushed, only having 87 in most of the rural places we end up in I'm now trying to figure out a sound octane booster process to hopefully keep the octane safe and quick/easy to toss in the tank. Also considering getting that 11gallon trail tank so that my 93 octane fuel I bring along will get me further without the worry.

As for your coolant expansion issue, guess you have a GYTRv2 kit? I don't think my GYTRv2 Heat Exchanger was leaking in the front, but was leaking from that GYTRv1 fill point that I'd retained in the rear. I definitely need to find a way to plumb it into a reservoir, honestly was considering just using the OE radiator reservoir for this function as well. If thereafter I notice that the front is also needing a reservoir I will explore that upgrade too. Initially I need to find out just how much coolant I'm losing before it stops, if it is very little I may just let it be.
 

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Torco Accelerator is your best additive. It's race gas concentrate. I've ran if for years in place of 110race fuel. I mix 32 oz with 5 gals of 93 for 107. I have zero trouble at 18lbs of boost with 9.5 compression at 1300 and 500ft of elevation. Stuff is amazing! Amazon has fresh 6 packs that last me for a all week ride for $140 plus 30 gals of 93 octane. Sorry if I wasn't clear.. I to have the V1 kit. I was saying I was having the same overflow at the rear fill tank. This was after I added my own larger intercooler in place of the junk intercooler that yamaha had in the V1kit. I keeped the rear fill tank, buck plugged the overflow hole on the side of the tank. I then added a expansion tank to the front intercooler. It seems to do well. No more leaking.
About 12psi on stock internals... I did it, and never through a rod or break ring landing, but I was warned by many that it was a fine line. 10 psi would be fine in my opinion. 10 psi, stock compression, alba cams, shimless buckets, and a manual timing chain tensioner and you would be solid in my opinion.
 

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depending on who you talk with, "they" will say a stock 19 motor can handle up to 8psi problem free, anything beyond that will require rods and shimless valve buckets. ive seen many run fine without, many grenade with less boost. it seems a preventative measure as a rod failure can cause a substantial amount of damage. 12psi is a freaking riot though. i believe some are even running 8psi on first gen motors problem free. id assume it has a few factors too before a motor lets go (i.e. how much time is spent in the red, prior wear on internals and valve springs, etc)
 

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Time for a JTE Boost Lok for the clutch. You won't regret it.

Add an oil pressure/temp gauge and a catch can.

Only other thing I suggest is getting the higher capacity oil tank and or an oil cooler. There's two or three options out there.... or Your oil changes are going to become more frequent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Torco Accelerator is your best additive. It's race gas concentrate. I've ran if for years in place of 110race fuel. I mix 32 oz with 5 gals of 93 for 107. I have zero trouble at 18lbs of boost with 9.5 compression at 1300 and 500ft of elevation. Stuff is amazing! Amazon has fresh 6 packs that last me for a all week ride for $140 plus 30 gals of 93 octane. Sorry if I wasn't clear.. I to have the V1 kit. I was saying I was having the same overflow at the rear fill tank. This was after I added my own larger intercooler in place of the junk intercooler that yamaha had in the V1kit. I keeped the rear fill tank, buck plugged the overflow hole on the side of the tank. I then added a expansion tank to the front intercooler. It seems to do well. No more leaking.
About 12psi on stock internals... I did it, and never through a rod or break ring landing, but I was warned by many that it was a fine line. 10 psi would be fine in my opinion. 10 psi, stock compression, alba cams, shimless buckets, and a manual timing chain tensioner and you would be solid in my opinion.
Torco Accelerator is exactly what I have now. I was thinking that the container was rather large and hard to tell what amount to mix being solid metal, so I was considering buying some smaller containers like this to divide it into for easy/quick mixing:

Seems like about 10-11oz would take 5-6 gallons of 87 to ~93, which is all I am trying to achieve for now. When I start upping the boost I'll be upping this mix of course too.

As for the coolant surge tank in the rear, looks like it just loses ~1/3rd of the top fill. I may just give it some more rides and see if it stays the same, if it does may just leave it be. Otherwise do you remember what size thread that hole was in the rear tank? I know it is bigger than M6 but a bit smaller than M8 (much smaller than 1/8" NPT as well). If I could put a nipple into that I may just try T-ing it to the small hose to the radiators overflow reservoir hose.

Maybe I will hang around 10psi (12psi max), from what I was told by FTecu is that the GYTRv2 Turbo ECU's also actually have a cut off at 10psi, and I am actually using that ECU right now (don't know what it does but probably cuts fuel).

I have had absolutely no intentions of doing cams. However I'd considered shimless buckets, manual timing chain tensioner, and valve springs; but haven't got there yet. What are the solid options there? I'd just hate to break something by getting a bad aftermarket part that didn't even need "fixing" in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
depending on who you talk with, "they" will say a stock 19 motor can handle up to 8psi problem free, anything beyond that will require rods and shimless valve buckets. ive seen many run fine without, many grenade with less boost. it seems a preventative measure as a rod failure can cause a substantial amount of damage. 12psi is a freaking riot though. i believe some are even running 8psi on first gen motors problem free. id assume it has a few factors too before a motor lets go (i.e. how much time is spent in the red, prior wear on internals and valve springs, etc)
Definitely do not want to do rods. I was thinking the 19+ engines had some pretty solid rods, being the GYTR rods offered in the prior kits. Are rods really even a remote concern at 12psi? Definitely news to me if so, I thought they were more inclined to take up to ~18psi with relative ease. Surely it also makes some differences with the turbo used too, smaller turbos that spool much earlier along with their more restrictive turbine housings are going to be much harder on rods than turbos that spool later and have very free flowing housings (such as the GYTRv1's GT2860RS turbo).

My main plan was to increase octane as I upped the boost, and to try to keep the fuel mixture rich. Sounds like shimless buckets are something to get for sure, so need to figure which to get there. Valve springs and manual tensioner is something else I probably need to look into while in there. But yeah I think about 12psi is where I really would like to be when said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hey Rob, great post and couldn’t have said it better. Your results mirror mine and I couldn’t be happier with my V1 GYTR turbo.
Happy for ya!
Yeah man, this setup is already great the way it is, definitely happy to finally have it installed lol. But now to give it a just bit more hopefully without breaking anything along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Time for a JTE Boost Lok for the clutch. You won't regret it.

Add an oil pressure/temp gauge and a catch can.

Only other thing I suggest is getting the higher capacity oil tank and or an oil cooler. There's two or three options out there.... or Your oil changes are going to become more frequent.
I already have the GYTR clutch setup sitting here and really wanted to give that a whirl first, from what I have gathered it will be plenty to handle what I need done. But if it lets go too then I'll replace its clutch pack and add the JTE Boost lock too, but I am REALLY hoping that is never a concern. For now I need to find out which is better to prevent clutch slipping, that standard yamaha all purpose 10w-40 or the yamaha synthetic 15w-50.

I'm done with the gauges as my cockpit is already starting to look like an airplane lol. If oil pressure/temp becomes a problem hopefully I hear/see it, but yeah worse case I'll have to get another engine. I'll probably change oil every 750 miles or so, but still need to observe to see. With the 225 hard total miles I put on it this weekend the engine oil still looks new, so off to a good start, but it was also very cold (ie. 25-45* range) this weekend too. Honestly now the engines oiling is probably getting a break as I am far less bouncing off the rev limiter than I used to be with all the new torque down low and using taller the gears when I can.
 

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👍🏼
You can always get the Dyno Jet Powervision 3 and it displays up to 16 different reading/gauges/signals you can scroll through. 4 readings at a time on the screen. ☝🏼😄

That's what I will be doing.

Looking forward to your results. 🤙🏼

If you aren't bouncing off the rev limiter are you even in boost. 😄😎🤙🏼 Guess I'm just used to wide open throttle riding
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
👍🏼
You can always get the Dyno Jet Powervision 3 and it displays up to 16 different reading/gauges/signals you can scroll through. 4 readings at a time on the screen. ☝🏼😄

That's what I will be doing.

Looking forward to your results. 🤙🏼

If you aren't bouncing off the rev limiter are you even in boost. 😄😎🤙🏼 Guess I'm just used to wide open throttle riding
I saw all of that dynojet stuff too, looks good, but by that point had already purchased all of the AEM gauges so just ran with it.

If i am remember right it's making just a bit of boost by around 3-4k and full boost by around 5k rpm (gear/load pending). Rev limit is 10,500. The 4-9k RPM range is much more fun these days, with this torque on tap is the area I will always be in with the woods riding I do. In these scenarios you can be WOT riding but just shifting earlier, wrapping out to redline just isn't always needed.
 

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Definitely do not want to do rods. I was thinking the 19+ engines had some pretty solid rods, being the GYTR rods offered in the prior kits. Are rods really even a remote concern at 12psi? Definitely news to me if so, I thought they were more inclined to take up to ~18psi with relative ease. Surely it also makes some differences with the turbo used too, smaller turbos that spool much earlier along with their more restrictive turbine housings are going to be much harder on rods than turbos that spool later and have very free flowing housings (such as the GYTRv1's GT2860RS turbo).

My main plan was to increase octane as I upped the boost, and to try to keep the fuel mixture rich. Sounds like shimless buckets are something to get for sure, so need to figure which to get there. Valve springs and manual tensioner is something else I probably need to look into while in there. But yeah I think about 12psi is where I really would like to be when said and done.
i think "need" is subjective. my YXZ was never boosted so i dont have personal experience with any failures. i have spoken with a few builders and 2 out of 3 said rods are NEEDED, the 3rd...who makes a very reputable and reliable kit, has stated that they are good for 12psi. but if anything is going to fail in double digit boost, its going to be rods. well, that and the driveline coupler, axles, rear diff, etc. i think a lot depends on how the car is driven and how it is maintained and what preventative measures are taken. a car at 6psi but lives on the rev limiter and misses oil changes will have issues long before a properly built and maintained motor at 12psi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i think "need" is subjective. my YXZ was never boosted so i dont have personal experience with any failures. i have spoken with a few builders and 2 out of 3 said rods are NEEDED, the 3rd...who makes a very reputable and reliable kit, has stated that they are good for 12psi. but if anything is going to fail in double digit boost, its going to be rods. well, that and the driveline coupler, axles, rear diff, etc. i think a lot depends on how the car is driven and how it is maintained and what preventative measures are taken. a car at 6psi but lives on the rev limiter and misses oil changes will have issues long before a properly built and maintained motor at 12psi.
For sure that bad upkeep combined with harsh abuse is the worst combo.

I am a bit worried to see what happens with the drivetrain with the better gripping GYTR clutch. Certainly the OE clutch has "micro" slips here and there we just don't notice, but those slips could protect the drivetrain from the shock that snaps parts.

I'll prob just cap my power dreams in the 10-12psi range, and pray from there lol. I try to keep things very well maintained, but I do beat on it of course however I am also not blatantly abusive (ie. always mindful of keeping hardware alive too). I probably need to head back over to the sidewinder forums to see what they were doing to keep their engines alive and reliable, but I am pretty certain they were all running 15+psi on their stock rods (while turbo engines from the factory I've presumed them to be no better than the GYTR stuff in our 19+ cars).

Its crazy these new turbo rzr and x3's I think are up in the 15+psi range stock, many tuning them close to 20psi.
 

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Believe it or not but the X3s also break axles and everything else stock...

The rods will knock and or punch a hole. Had a friend run it couple hundred miles on GYTR and blew the block.

He then went to full Packard build, Packard heads, Packard diff etc. 450 hp now.
 

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There is no "IFs" in this YXZ game, most of the limits have been figured out, nobody has a magic block, driveshaft, diff, or axles that will last.

Why live with the habit of having to baby the machine. Hoping to have good throttle control
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes. Things break no matter what. Especially drivetrain. So far so good with what my car was and is to date, but it is just a matter of time especially when you begin to add power and upgrade the next weak point.

My point was that the RZR and X3 engines are built to withstand 15+psi from the factory, which is impressive if our 19+ (turbo prepared) engines begin to become questionable at 10psi. Also in that (maybe I am recalling incorrectly???) that the sidewinder platform (which are all turbos from the factory on the same genesis 998 engine) are making up to 250hp on their stock Yamaha engines (ie. not "needing" rods).

Definitely not babying anything just also not trying to idiot proof anything either. There are ways to drive that gets the job done that can save parts along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Also compression ratios... And fuel type. Gas more psi run Hot. More ethanol, more cool.
I’d think the CR would be more likely to cause popped pistons, in that higher CR needs more octane to prevent knock. Definitely need to look deeper into the 2019+/GYTR rod limitations, the cylinder pressures from high boost/high CR surely taxes them too. But you are correct and the factory turbo’d sidewinder surely has less CR than the YXZ, even though both use the same engine, which could be why it seems much more tolerant to making power without needing to replace pistons/rods.
 
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