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call Alan Anderson, Casey Hauck and then lastly talk with Weller racing. I trust Weller as they have the most time into R&D with their turbo kit and there are many first gen yxzs running boost on first gen motors with zero issues. i personally believe it also depends on where the boost comes on. the weller kit is VERY linear and only sees full boost at almost 10k rpm. based on a few other yxzs ive driven, seems like other tuners like to pile the boost on early, making it over rev and possibly over boost, compounding issues

as for drive line items. make sure the drive line coupler stays greased, know that the CV is garbage and a set of quality axles WILL be in your future, and that the rear diff has been known to crack under stress as well. nothing is bulletproof, especially when adding 60% more power
 

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Finally installed my GYTRv1 turbo setup last month that had been sitting in a box for a couple years. The install took quite a long time, but I'm a weirdo and like to do many things my own way. All in all it was a very nice kit and I'd say the biggest thing I ended up doing differently were:
1) Added in the GYTRv2 Heat Exchanger/Fan setup (with some control logic)
2) Using better quality clamps, hosing, and fastening hardware in some areas
3) Putting the IC pump up front for easier bleeding
4) Installing gauges (boost with controller, WB02, IC coolant temp, Fuel Pressure)
5) Used stainless vacuum tees instead of the plastic in numerous places
6) Added a Turbosmart Diverter Valve
7) Internal exhaust manifold massaging (ie. low level smoothing/porting)
8) Turbo wastegate flapper hole size massaging/size increase for better flow and less chance of boost creep when adding custom exhaust in future
9) Weller manifold hold down brackets

After all the work I was a bit worried about drivability or other issues. All in all the car took a lot of abuse over a 200 mile woods ride and had no issues and drove like a stock car on steroids. FREAKING love it.

Couple issues encountered:
1) The 1,300 mile OE stock clutch (Not modified at all) ended up slipping the first time into boost in the taller gears (ie. 4th, 5th). 1st and 2nd gears still seemed to work ok, 3rd is when the slipping become a bit noticeable but was terrible upward of that. I had been running Yamaha All Purpose 10w-40 in the trans its entire life, but swapped to Yamaha Full Synthetic 15w-50 just before this first ride. It shifted and clutched a lot smoother with the new oil but it does make me wonder if using the original stuff would've faired any better with the boost.
2) The GYTRv1 rear mounted coolant expansion I'd still retained, even though I'd gone with the GYTRv2 Heat exchanger setup up front. Topping off the system did end up with some coolant loss from that rear fill point, so using some sort of reservoir maybe in order, or just deal with it not being completely filled.

All in all the car did very well. Even just that partial throttle feel at very low boost (ie. sub 3psi) is simply a game changer. Driving on the rev limiter is not a need anymore, now you can always run taller gears and the torque has your back. Stock manners all still there, but it now loves having a load. The boost comes on great even with the very large GYTRv1 GT2860RS turbo too, so if it is laggy to some I will say even for my technical woods riding it seems to work very well. One of my biggest gripes with my 2019 was that going from even 1st rev limiter to 2nd would end with bogging, especially when on ascents, and it was always a question of leaving it in first and hang on the limiter or go ahead and deal with the bog in 2nd. Not a concern anymore, the thing just rips everywhere now in comparison, even at the measly 6-7psi on stock exhaust.

Next up is to add the GYTR Clutch setup. I may go back to the 10w-40 oil but need to do a bit of homework there yet, as the feel with the Synthetic 15w-50 was definitely smoother, but I have a feeling that smoothness could've lead to a stronger likelihood of slipping.

After that gets a few rides on it then I'm going to be adding exhaust, initially with no other changes, to see how it affects drivability (and A/F, etc). Then add in a return style fuel system (upgraded 190lph HP fuel pump, sidewinder FPR) and slightly bump the boost. It does so well where it is at I am hesistant to do much more but I feel getting to 10-12psi would be a lot more fun so we will see. I also have sidewinder injectors that may need to go in as well, at which point I am definitely going to be digging into FTecu or seeing if there is any aftermarket tuning support for my particular combo of parts (doubtful).

Hope this helps others who maybe in the same boat, I spent a long time researching for this project, and was many times tempted to just sell the machine and go to the dark side. BUT the driving experience of the YXZ and its gearbox just cant be matched, so every time those thoughts came I kicked them back out pretty quick. During this weekend 200 mile aggressive woods ride, countless times I had goose pimples, the driving experience was just that damn good. Very happy turbo YXZ owner here without a doubt.
I have 1000 miles on my GYTR turbo with an ALBA tune and Pipe and have never felt my stock clutch slip. I run 10w-40 oil. It would be interesting if changing oil makes a difference. I am however going to add the GYTR clutch setup when I install my Crawl Box.
 

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Turbo Rzrs, Turbo X3s and the sidewinder engine will all handle more boost because of the compression is lower from factory Turbo pistons. Doing this lowers the cylinder pressure with higher boost. I bet the GYTR rods would be good at high boost if they were mated to low comp Turbo pistons, but at that point just install a set of Carrillo rods. You can't forget about ARP head studs also if running high compression and 12psi. Head gasket is more likely to blow with that much head pressure. Your correct..octane, detonation and tune/timing will become more critical at higher compression coupled with higher boost. I still say 10psi on your rig would be plenty fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
call Alan Anderson, Casey Hauck and then lastly talk with Weller racing. I trust Weller as they have the most time into R&D with their turbo kit and there are many first gen yxzs running boost on first gen motors with zero issues. i personally believe it also depends on where the boost comes on. the weller kit is VERY linear and only sees full boost at almost 10k rpm. based on a few other yxzs ive driven, seems like other tuners like to pile the boost on early, making it over rev and possibly over boost, compounding issues

as for drive line items. make sure the drive line coupler stays greased, know that the CV is garbage and a set of quality axles WILL be in your future, and that the rear diff has been known to crack under stress as well. nothing is bulletproof, especially when adding 60% more power
I bought spare OE axles, front and rear. Also that rear propshaft as well that is known to break at the weld. I am not aware of any grease points on the rear propshaft CV's, AFAIK they are only the front propshaft CVs (which I've recently greased the whole car). Oh and I also have another rear 19+ diff. I'm all about buying parts as spares and the OE stuff (so far) has worked flawlessly, but I've recently added 30" carnivores and now this turbo kit so with the new GYTR clutch also to installed soon those drivetrain parts are going to see a whole new level of torture for sure. But still hoping the OE stuff hangs in there, we shall see.

As for the boost and control most of these setups are spooling based on nothing more than the turbo design vs. internal wastegate actuator spring, meaning there is no way to make it not spool until later without getting a larger turbo (ie. tuners can not control this function). The only thing tuners can control is by using a mac solenoid (boost controller) to bleed off pressure to make the boost HIGHER from that initial boost onset, but even that can not be controlled by RPM unless maybe they also have a standalone?

Smaller turbos will spool quicker and while it is great to have boost coming on earlier this is simply very hard on rods. Excess Exhaust Back Pressure from smaller better responding turbos is probably also harder on rods, but mainly is known to kill piston ring lands if the octane isnt sorted due to its great contribution to knock. So the larger and free flowing (and slower to respond) GYTRv1 GT2860RS probably is a good choice in more ways than one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
I have 1000 miles on my GYTR turbo with an ALBA tune and Pipe and have never felt my stock clutch slip. I run 10w-40 oil. It would be interesting if changing oil makes a difference. I am however going to add the GYTR clutch setup when I install my Crawl Box.
Great to know. Yeah my clutch has always felt bulletproof, but I'd always used Yamaha All Purpose 10w-40 in my trans prior to this week. A few rides ago in the mountains I had to be brutal on the clutch, so I knew the oil was probably beat up pretty good, so I figured I better change it with the new turbo (it was fine on subsequent rides but still). Unfortunately I purchased the Synthetic Yamaha 15w-50 and swapped it in only to find my old Yamaha All Purpose 10w-40 container on the shelf that reminded me that is what I'd been using prior, but by that point I had to go and the work was already done with the new synthetic. Immediately the 15w-50 felt way nicer (smoother taking off and shifting), but it made me wonder if that was a bad thing for clutch slipping too. One thing is for sure my clutch started slipping the first time in boost in taller gears, it is honestly pretty bad. If I didn't already have the GYTR clutch setup I would probably put back in the 10w-40 again and see if it still slips this bad... lol. For now I am still torn if that oil decision was a factor in the clutch slipping, because I want to use the best possible oil I can for the new GYTR clutch setup to not have the risk going forward. So I need to make a decision as to what oil to use for the new setup soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Turbo Rzrs, Turbo X3s and the sidewinder engine will all handle more boost because of the compression is lower from factory Turbo pistons. Doing this lowers the cylinder pressure with higher boost. I bet the GYTR rods would be good at high boost if they were mated to low comp Turbo pistons, but at that point just install a set of Carrillo rods. You can't forget about ARP head studs also if running high compression and 12psi. Head gasket is more likely to blow with that much head pressure. Your correct..octane, detonation and tune/timing will become more critical at higher compression coupled with higher boost. I still say 10psi on your rig would be plenty fun.
For sure man if I were to pull an engine apart it will definitely get all of the good stuff. I don't know the CR's of all those other machines, but I am sure there is strong likelihood that they are less than our machine being factory turbo setups. Although some turbo engines still have surprisingly high CR, so would have to confirm one by one to know for sure.

The main reason I finally jumped into the YXZ game (selling my old trusty RZR900XP lol) is that the engine finally came with the better rods and was turbo ready, basically with all of the changes in the '19 I was sucked in. With that I am hoping to find some solid knowledge on the 19+ cars on what "safe" limits they can take, ideally from those using the same turbo as in the GYTRv1 turbo kit (GT2860RS).
 

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@RobBeck the GT2860 can take you from GYTR specs up to 38psi 430hp+ on higher end fuels and built motor and supporting mods A-Z .... I personally know several people running the 2860 from GYTR, to KT, to Packard, to Custom that are in these ranges I speak of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
@RobBeck the GT2860 can take you from GYTR specs up to 38psi 430hp+ on higher end fuels and built motor and supporting mods A-Z .... I personally know several people running the 2860 from GYTR, to KT, to Packard, to Custom that are in these ranges I speak of.
Yeah, it is a beefcake turbo that is barely breathing at even 15psi. It would pain me to leave it at 7psi lol. I am mostly riding technical woods/trails though, so I don't need it to be doing wheelies and stuff like in the dunes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Here is another thread I made requesting feedback from those who use or may have used the GYTR clutch:
 

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Great write up. Thank you.

I don't want to start a oil fire on this thread, but I have experienced the same thing with old motorcycle clutches (those that have time on them), after switching from dino oil to full synthetic, I have roasted the clutch. I have gotten away with going from dino oil to semi-synthetic in a few bikes.
JASO MA, MB, MA1, and MA2 are designed to provide different clutch friction characteristics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Great write up. Thank you.

I don't want to start a oil fire on this thread, but I have experienced the same thing with old motorcycle clutches (those that have time on them), after switching from dino oil to full synthetic, I have roasted the clutch. I have gotten away with going from dino oil to semi-synthetic in a few bikes.
JASO MA, MB, MA1, and MA2 are designed to provide different clutch friction characteristics.
Based on similar past experiences, the moment I realized I put the synthetic in and hadn't prior, there was a concern to me as well for the clutch. I nearly almost swapped back to the dino before even leaving, but was in a hurry so rolled the dice. Anyway the switch to synthetic, the higher viscosity, or both together (all combined with the brutal cold weather); made my car feel so smooth taking off I almost thought it had a belt lol. Unfortunately in my case the clutch starting to slip on boost in tall gears could've also been just as simple as the added boost onto a hurt and barely surviving (yet still perfectly functional) clutch.

Those oil approvals are revolved around engine specific oils that are also sufficient for wet clutches. On the YXZ it is only a gearbox and clutch, so we really only need any oil that is wet clutch/gearbox specific. I'd heard that the heavier oil has an even harder time getting into the clutch plates, especially in that it is not drilled from the factory (cold wouldn't help either). So even with the oil pre-drilled GYTR clutch basket I'm going to be running the lighter 10w-40 just to be safe (synthetic) for the clutch, the higher viscosity I'm told does make for better shifts though too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hey Rob, you’re always great at logging info so
FWIW I’m using Yamalube Semi-syn 10-50. Only 1300 miles on the machine but no clutch slippage after the GYTR install.
Appreciate that info! I put in the gold bottle stuff, yamaha synthetic 15w-50. Same mileage here but I've had some nasty clutching situations, so my clutch could've just been hurt and the turbo was just too much.
 

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I did a test ride on a new 21 SS SE where the dealer installed the latest Gen GYTR Turbo Kit - making north of 240+ HP and they were working on the fine tuning then shipping to their customer. They didn't have to change rods, I can't recall the boost they were using on the ride I took but it was impressive going 0-80MPH in about 6 seconds counting in my head with a one thousand one and so on.
Now I have been looking into this myself for my 2017 SS SE but I will have to change rods and make some other changes. I am currently investigating going with a cam kit and so far it is cheaper and requires no rod change and achieve the same HP gains and have reliability of not having a Turbo.
Honestly I would love to see a comparison of a CAM KIT vs. Turbo in all the terrains we ride our YXZ's in. I am sure the most contested terrain will be in the Sand..
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I did a test ride on a new 21 SS SE where the dealer installed the latest Gen GYTR Turbo Kit - making north of 240+ HP and they were working on the fine tuning then shipping to their customer. They didn't have to change rods, I can't recall the boost they were using on the ride I took but it was impressive going 0-80MPH in about 6 seconds counting in my head with a one thousand one and so on.
Now I have been looking into this myself for my 2017 SS SE but I will have to change rods and make some other changes. I am currently investigating going with a cam kit and so far it is cheaper and requires no rod change and achieve the same HP gains and have reliability of not having a Turbo.
Honestly I would love to see a comparison of a CAM KIT vs. Turbo in all the terrains we ride our YXZ's in. I am sure the most contested terrain will be in the Sand..
There is going to be absolutely zero comparison between the engine breathing naturally and the immense torque provided by the turbos force feeding, at nearly every moment in the engines rev range the car feels like its the Hulk, even if you are at sea level let alone being at some elevation. All said if you are able to or desire always bouncing on the rev limiter a well built N/A car could be sufficient, but for my riding the turbo is definitely going to be a huge game changer.
 
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