Weller 7psi turbo kit is more than enough to bb pull on them
How far can I push it on pump gas?
I have a 2018 yxz and I'm currently doing research on turbos for it. I'm hoping to have it up and running by April.
Anyways, how much power can I expect to make on pump gas? I'm not looking to make a ton of power I just want to be able to keep up with my dad's Can-Am Maverick X3 that I believe is like 200hp to the crank? Being faster than him would be great but I'm just trying to close the gap.
I ride in the Oregon sand dunes. I think they have 92 or 93 octane at the pumps
Anyways, how much power can I expect to make on pump gas? I'm not looking to make a ton of power I just want to be able to keep up with my dad's Can-Am Maverick X3 that I believe is like 200hp to the crank? Being faster than him would be great but I'm just trying to close the gap.
I ride in the Oregon sand dunes. I think they have 92 or 93 octane at the pumps
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Forgive my ignorance but by "bb pull" are you saying baby pull?Weller 7psi turbo kit is more than enough to bb pull on them
Forgive my ignorance but by "bb pull" are you saying baby pull?
Sorry that was a typo, I am running the weller turbo kit at 7psi and it is more than enough to keep up power wise.
A good paddle tire such as lightweight Skat Traks on DMTS or other lightweight rim.... will also add to the equation. And a lightweight flywheel, exhaust and tune.
28" 8 paddle extreme if you're NA, 30" 10 paddle if you're boosted
I have a 2018 yxz and I'm currently doing research on turbos for it. I'm hoping to have it up and running by April.
Anyways, how much power can I expect to make on pump gas? I'm not looking to make a ton of power I just want to be able to keep up with my dad's Can-Am Maverick X3 that I believe is like 200hp to the crank? Being faster than him would be great but I'm just trying to close the gap.
I ride in the Oregon sand dunes. I think they have 92 or 93 octane at the pumps
I have the Weller/RPM turbo and Weller built motor for high boost. I can run 91 pump gas up to 10 lbs boost, after that, it's high octane. I think it's about 160 hp to tires at 10psi.I have a 2018 yxz and I'm currently doing research on turbos for it. I'm hoping to have it up and running by April.
Anyways, how much power can I expect to make on pump gas? I'm not looking to make a ton of power I just want to be able to keep up with my dad's Can-Am Maverick X3 that I believe is like 200hp to the crank? Being faster than him would be great but I'm just trying to close the gap.
I ride in the Oregon sand dunes. I think they have 92 or 93 octane at the pumps
Are you planning on doing a motor build? If not then I wouldn't go beyond 6psi with the 2018 motor, and even then putting a rod through the block is a concern. If built with low comp turbo pistons then you'll be fine on 10-11psi on pump with a good tune. That's beyond what the stock injectors can push, so you'll need to go bigger there. If you don't want to do injectors then I'd keep it in the 8.5-9psi max region.I have a 2018 yxz and I'm currently doing research on turbos for it. I'm hoping to have it up and running by April.
Anyways, how much power can I expect to make on pump gas? I'm not looking to make a ton of power I just want to be able to keep up with my dad's Can-Am Maverick X3 that I believe is like 200hp to the crank? Being faster than him would be great but I'm just trying to close the gap.
I ride in the Oregon sand dunes. I think they have 92 or 93 octane at the pumps
Something no one seems to discuss, but with the YXZ’s in tank fuel pressure regulator being without any boost reference, the injectors will see 49psi when not in boost but when going into boost the opposing air pressure suppresses fuel flow 1psi to 1psi. This means that same ~380cc injector at 10psi of boost really is flow capable of 339cc (same injector seeing 39psi differential). All said would be nice to see what stock injectors could do w proper 1:1 external fuel pressure regulator and appropriately sized fuel pump, which will need to be able to also hold pressure higher to keep differential at 49psi (ie. 59psi in example above).Are you planning on doing a motor build? If not then I wouldn't go beyond 6psi with the 2018 motor, and even then putting a rod through the block is a concern. If built with low comp turbo pistons then you'll be fine on 10-11psi on pump with a good tune. That's beyond what the stock injectors can push, so you'll need to go bigger there. If you don't want to do injectors then I'd keep it in the 8.5-9psi max region.
A lot of talk of 10 psi when only going to be running half throttle 😂. These YXZs boosted at 6 psi can move!
8psi moves. 12 psi Movessss. 25 psi MOVVVVESSS borderline insane on this 3 cyl 😎💥
Build for 25% over your intended psi. Motor longevity and Turbo efficiency.
Last thing you need is a boost spike/creep/turbo flutter and blow your turbo or motor.
Also, BOV size/quality/placement/direction of flow/Recirc-vent- or dual Port BOV / Wastegate etc... dumped waste gates will help control or prevent boost creep but be a lot louder because higher exhaust build up.
All dependent on your build !!! A small turbo and a big turbo at the same psi will produce different HP numbers. The bigger turbo moves more volume of air producing more power. More air more fuel more power.... So beware of that.
Do your homework, check all the boxes. ☑☑☑
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8psi moves. 12 psi Movessss. 25 psi MOVVVVESSS borderline insane on this 3 cyl 😎💥
Build for 25% over your intended psi. Motor longevity and Turbo efficiency.
Last thing you need is a boost spike/creep/turbo flutter and blow your turbo or motor.
Also, BOV size/quality/placement/direction of flow/Recirc-vent- or dual Port BOV / Wastegate etc... dumped waste gates will help control or prevent boost creep but be a lot louder because higher exhaust build up.
All dependent on your build !!! A small turbo and a big turbo at the same psi will produce different HP numbers. The bigger turbo moves more volume of air producing more power. More air more fuel more power.... So beware of that.
Do your homework, check all the boxes. ☑☑☑
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Agree with most of that, especially in that all turbos are not created equal. A tiny turbo that responds very well is usually going to respond very well at the expense of being more restrictive, which has a huge effect on Exhaust Back Pressure and that causes a very high need for Octane (especially on a high compression engine) and even then has much higher risk of popping pistons and bending rods. Meanwhile it is going to move less air at the same PSI as a larger turbo. After driving quite a bit on the GT2860RS, very happy to have that installed, it responds plenty well enough on these engines IMO.A lot of talk of 10 psi when only going to be running half throttle 😂. These YXZs boosted at 6 psi can move!
8psi moves. 12 psi Movessss. 25 psi MOVVVVESSS borderline insane on this 3 cyl 😎💥
Build for 25% over your intended psi.
Last thing you need is a boost spike/creep/turbo flutter and blow your turbo or motor.
Also, BOV size/quality/placement/direction of flow/Recirc-vent- or dual Port BOV / Wastegate etc... dumped waste gates will help control or prevent boost creep but be a lot louder because higher exhaust build up.
All dependent on your build !!! A small turbo and a big turbo at the same psi will produce different HP numbers. The bigger turbo moves more volume of air producing more power. More air more fuel more power.... So beware of that.
Do your homework, check all the boxes. ☑☑☑
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However the BOV/Diverter setup would not have any bearing on the Boost Creep issues though, that is mainly caused by a turbo that can not be controlled by means of wastegate spring pressure vs. wastegate hole sizing vs. general turbine wheel/housing sizing vs. engine airflow. Boost creep is going to be more notable when going into the higher RPM band with smaller turbos and free'er flowing exhaust while trying to maintain a low boost figure (ie. 7psi wastegate pressure)- you really need to have a boost gauge to see if you are affected by such a thing. If so opening up the wastegate hole is a common fix, or increasing the boost a bit, or upsizing the turbo, or putting back in some exhaust restrictions.
Love the information you guys are giving me. It's really appreciated.
I am not against the idea of building the engine up a bit for reliability. I was under the impression that octane would be the first major limiting factor.
I am not against the idea of building the engine up a bit for reliability. I was under the impression that octane would be the first major limiting factor.
My perception of it is that your biggest initial worry should be rods, then pistons due to the octane if you try to raise boost too much. If I were you (anyone with a 16-18 engine) I'd personally not push past wastegate pressure (ie. 7psi) and make sure you are not getting any boost creep, even that may be a push but that is the lowest boost you can typically run so it is what it is. Generally speaking those with 19+ engines should be able to get up to around 12psi with the right octane, but even then ~10psi maybe a safer place to stop. I've been trying to get some good ideas of these basic "limits" but opinions are all over the board, so when that happens it is probably best to error on the side of caution. Going to a standalone ECU with a knock sensor would help out a lot, as these stock ECU's are not too advanced (no knock sensor thus no timing retard, no closed loop fueling feedback as no O2 sensor, etc).Love the information you guys are giving me. It's really appreciated.
I am not against the idea of building the engine up a bit for reliability. I was under the impression that octane would be the first major limiting factor.
Cool, I'll definitely look into a standalone as well as a beefing up the rotating assembly.
Problem with the standalone (ie. Motec) is that it is pretty big money, so most just try to limp along with what we have and the guess work affiliated with it. However avoiding one popped engine and that stand alone could've just paid for itself.Cool, I'll definitely look into a standalone as well as a beefing up the rotating assembly.
Very true. Not only beefing it up, but a well balanced rotated assembly outside of stock oem is SO SMOOTH. @SonicRacing1 runs the K&T build and his is smooooooth! at idle - no vibration.... and smooth through the throttle than my N/A... which I'm also on a fresh OEM rebuilt motor....Cool, I'll definitely look into a standalone as well as a beefing up the rotating assembly.
Could be my clutch chattering/flywheel though lol. 🤷🏽♂️ All good info here from @RobBeck
Have yet to tear into one of these engines, may have to eventually, but I do know they have balancing shafts and with that maybe they are not aligned properly? Not sure if you may have something going on with that or something else (ie. who rebuilt it and with what components??), but I cant imagine an OE built Yamaha short block having a poor rotating assembly balance.Very true. Not only beefing it up, but a well balanced rotated assembly outside of stock oem is SO SMOOTH. @SonicRacing1 runs the K&T build and his is smooooooth! at idle - no vibration.... and smooth through the throttle than my N/A... which I'm also on a fresh OEM rebuilt motor....
Could be my clutch chattering/flywheel though lol. 🤷🏽♂️ All good info here from @RobBeck
Also more than likely most of these aftermarket builders are just tossing rods/pistons in the builds and kicking them down the line, as that is just the most common way to do things typically and is also what I'd most likely do myself.
@RobBeck it was a Yamaha Dealer by their authorized Yamaha tech. all Yamaha parts under warranty. It runs really strong, stronger than before. Runs better and sounds better, louder, different tone.
I'm simply referring to vibration. Sonics KT build is like electric car smooth on the throttle. I don't mean mine is shaking vigorously but you can feel the difference when in the seat.
He might have different motor mounts @SonicRacing1 ? Or other stuff that can contribute to the feeling.
I'm simply referring to vibration. Sonics KT build is like electric car smooth on the throttle. I don't mean mine is shaking vigorously but you can feel the difference when in the seat.
He might have different motor mounts @SonicRacing1 ? Or other stuff that can contribute to the feeling.
Yeah for sure likely something else skewing the observation. I was just saying there is likely nothing any aftermarket builder can do better than Yamaha OE when it comes to engine rotating assembly balance.@RobBeck it was a Yamaha Dealer by their authorized Yamaha tech. all Yamaha parts under warranty. It runs really strong, stronger than before. Runs better and sounds better, louder, different tone.
I'm simply referring to vibration. Sonics KT build is like electric car smooth on the throttle. I don't mean mine is shaking vigorously but you can feel the difference when in the seat.
He might have different motor mounts @SonicRacing1 ? Or other stuff that can contribute to the feeling.
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How far can I push it on pump gas? This is a picture courtesy from @Bravo_built.
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Aftermarket v.s. Oem
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How far can I push it on pump gas? This is a picture courtesy from @Bravo_built.
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Aftermarket v.s. Oem
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