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Handbrake installed, hard piped up and back down at the junction in the center console. It’ll lock up the rear tires pretty well on the street. My initial intent was to have it sit farther forward in the console. Do to the lay out of the center console this was the best way to make it happen functionally and cleanly. The handle of the ebrake does sit slightly lower than the shifter and it follows the same direction of the rubber in the console, it pulls slightly towards you. The handbrake is dead stop, locking up brakes shy of half throw, the handle has enough throw without fluid that it stops just before hitting the back of the center console.
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Hi. Im going to fit a hydraulic hand brake to my YXZ. There is a junction in the rear brake line under the floor of the drivers side. I have not stripped to check it out yet. Does anyone have a picture of that connection or do you know what connection it is. I need to split it then connect it through the hydro brake via braided hoses and need to know what the connection is. If anyone has a yxz currently stripped and can help with a photo even would br great.
Hey man! Can you send me a list of the hardware you used?
 

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I really want to do this to be able to make crawling easier, I use the factory e brake now when Im trying to hold myself on an obstacle but it rarely holds for long after adjustment. This would make following all the jeeps and rzrs and tube chassis I ride with so much easier on me and my clutch
 

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I really want to do this to be able to make crawling easier, I use the factory e brake now when Im trying to hold myself on an obstacle but it rarely holds for long after adjustment. This would make following all the jeeps and rzrs and tube chassis I ride with so much easier on me and my clutch
For just holding and not full speed lockups at every corner adding a master cylinder to the ebrake lever and hydraulic caliper to the ebrake disc would work. You have been using handbrake. Imagine it with 10 times the holding power and always in perfect adjustment working at the first hint of you lifting the brake lever. A lockout for the lever latch button would be good to.
 

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For just holding and not full speed lockups at every corner adding a master cylinder to the ebrake lever and hydraulic caliper to the ebrake disc would work. You have been using handbrake. Imagine it with 10 times the holding power and always in perfect adjustment working at the first hint of you lifting the brake lever. A lockout for the lever latch button would be good to.
I mean butttt the added benefit of being able to slide into a corner when just messing around in 2wd is enough for me to want the other. Plus itll look cool and the longer handle will add more leverage to be able to hold yourself with less effort. I am still going to look into adding a master cylinder to the factory ebrake but not sur where to start on that one
 

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The diff and axles are plenty strong enough for 10,000 rpm clutch dumps I recon throwing a hydraulic caliper on the ebrake disc may not be that big a deal. Better at the wheels for sure but the hydraulic plumbing is more complicated I believe. I know there is a valve required to feed just the rears while the foot brake master is working all of them still.

EDIT, sorry I see I already posted this in this same thread.

I can tell you what I would do if I wanted to slide around corners.

Simply install a line lock solenoid in the front brake main line.

Then a switch on the shifter to lock the front brakes from getting fed from master .

That way the foot brake would only operate the rear brakes anytime the switch was activated.
 

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The diff and axles are plenty strong enough for 10,000 rpm clutch dumps I recon throwing a hydraulic caliper on the ebrake disc may not be that big a deal. Better at the wheels for sure but the hydraulic plumbing is more complicated I believe. I know there is a valve required to feed just the rears while the foot brake master is working all of them still.

EDIT, sorry I see I already posted this in this same thread.

I can tell you what I would do if I wanted to slide around corners.

Simply install a line lock solenoid in the front brake main line.

Then a switch on the shifter to lock the front brakes from getting fed from master .

That way the foot brake would only operate the rear brakes anytime the switch was activated.
Adding in a solenoid sounds more complicated to me plus I then lose the one thing I wanted and that was to be able to hold myself on steep hills and large rocks. Plumbing to most drift style ebrake levers seems easy enough
 

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I did the CNC turning brake in place of the factory E-brake, it works well for taking off on hills or anytime you feel like you need 3 feet to work the peddles. For pitching the car sideways it works great as well. I am not as comfortable as I would like to be yet, my last car had a much lower center of gravity. I’m trying not to get to excited and avoid flopping it right away
 

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I did the CNC turning brake in place of the factory E-brake, it works well for taking off on hills or anytime you feel like you need 3 feet to work the peddles. For pitching the car sideways it works great as well. I am not as comfortable as I would like to be yet, my last car had a much lower center of gravity. I’m trying not to get to excited and avoid flopping it right away
Did you only use one direction on that brake from CNC? If im looking at what you used right its a push/pull lever for controlling left or right side braking
 

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The problem with a pinion brake is that the pinion spins much faster than the wheel and you only have 1 brake instead of 2 making the braking less secure and very subject to heat and fade. I think the OP did the right thing and followed the KISS principle as well. I'm a little jealous. This system would allow for much better hill ascent stop and starts!
 
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