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IRP and Clutch Mod question

18253 Views 27 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  codyl
While waiting for a call back from Tubeworks tech thought I would pick the brains of the 'in the know' on this site. Second ride with IRP and clutch mod when clutch became very sluggish reengaging afer downshift coming into down hill corner. Applying power to soon would result in slipping clutch and high RPM's causing a very hard engagement. If I would wait for the green slip indicator light to go out all was good. Also if i would downshift in the corner AFTER applying power it worked properly. Start off's as well as all up shifts work perfectly. Thanks for any ideas!
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Did you have the clutch actuator calibrated they say you have to have it done any time you do anything to the clutch system on these.I put the Alba heavy duty in mine and it wasn't long the actuator went out dealership relayed problem to the pressure plate spring being stronger and putting more pressure on the actuator,not sure I agree but they covered it under warranty.I have since then put the GYTR clutch basket,hub,and stock Yamaha discs,plates and steels and had it recalibrated afterwards and now it is rock solid.Im running Packard super charger,Alba heavy flywheel and this thing rips!!!!! Will climb anything in its path and no clutch problems I trail ride in midwest
Did you have the clutch actuator calibrated they say you have to have it done any time you do anything to the clutch system on these.I put the Alba heavy duty in mine and it wasn't long the actuator went out dealership relayed problem to the pressure plate spring being stronger and putting more pressure on the actuator,not sure I agree but they covered it under warranty.I have since then put the GYTR clutch basket,hub,and stock Yamaha discs,plates and steels and had it recalibrated afterwards and now it is rock solid.Im running Packard super charger,Alba heavy flywheel and this thing rips!!!!! Will climb anything in its path and no clutch problems I trail ride in midwest
That's why TW didn't market the kit until they solved the problem with the power in the stock actuator and waited until they was able to rebuild the stock one to handle the extra force. TW claims they have not had to recalibrate any actuators with the HD kit as of a month or two ago.
Good to hear yours is doing what it's suppose to be doing, it's a lot more fun like that !
Thanks for the replies! The only problem is sluggish clutch engagement after a downshift with no torque being applied to the driveline. Hopefully will discuss with TW on Monday.
i noticed the same thing when i went to HM trails last weekend. Downshifts would slip like the clutch wasn't engaging, green light would come on, then it kick in. Feels kind of like you are slipping a clutch in a manual car. If i blip the gas pedal, it would fully engage with no problems.

I did just change all my fluids this week and there was no material at all on the trans screen.
So any updates? Would like to know what they think the cause is.
Good luck. I took mine out and sent it back
we get it... you're the only guy on the site to send something back to TW and have to mention it every thread. you are so predictable
From what ive noticed with mine the calibration is what effects the time of engaugement and dis engaugement The GYTR paperwork that came with my clutch hub kit explains how it needs to be calibrated.For example when I put mine back together without calibration it was all over the map like searching for time to engauge etc took it to my Yamaha shop they changed the setting to a number 6 tested it and it was better but kicked in at too high rpm we set it on 1 and works great. just my 2 cents
Before I sent my GSC modulator back to be reprogramed the speedo was way out of wack, it read high. It did some weird shifting and didn't return to 1st by its self. After reprogramming, now the speedo is almost dead on with my GPS and it shifts normal.
TW could not help me. Said they had never heard of this problem. Since I don't race it's something I can deal with. I watch the half light and don't apply power until clutch is fully engaged.
well I am going riding Saturday. I do record my rides. I will try to get a video of what mine does and we can compare.
TW could not help me. Said they had never heard of this problem. Since I don't race it's something I can deal with. I watch the half light and don't apply power until clutch is fully engaged.
If you have the clutch mod, you can give it throttle with or without the clutch fully engaged. The IRP is made to take up that in-between stage, protecting the clutch system and providing a smoother delivery. After the clutch mod/IRP install, you can ignore the clutch light.
Curious if you guys are running the gear reduction with your IRP? I just installed the IRP last week with the stock gearing and it had no effect on smoothing out the take off. The car doesn't move at all when releasing the brake in 1st gear. After many calls to TW they finally told me the IRP isn't compatible with the stock gearing. Would have been nice if they would advertise this limitation on their website before someone drops $500 on the kit.
When I bought my 2017 YXZ SS SE I took it on one 30 mile ride, then immediately dropped it off at tubeworks for the 70-30-10 gear reduction and while there
they told me about their new product that they were testing out (the IRP). From the first trip I knew I really needed this product as well (I had a 14X7 enclosed trailer with cables that made it hard to negotiate the ramp. I think I got one of the first pressure plates, I told them to keep my vehicle until they had the newly arriving parts and install together along with clutch mods. They also did the clutch actuator calibrations and all adjustments. Everything was perfect, made my YXZ ride the way the factory should of delivered I can start out smoothly up a ramp with no jerking, climb any hills Ive attempted in Utah. I never have had any issues in the 1450 miles driven. Also I bet there is not much wear on my clutch as the clutch light is never on for a prolonged amount of time.
In April my YXZ was totaled in a roll over (nephew took a corner a little to fast - were both OK) and after thinking about trying a new Polaris Turbo S or maybe the
4 seat Dynamic Suspension Turbo; came to realize "I already had the best vehicle that I could ask for (The tubeworks equipped YXZ1000R SS SE).
I guess I'll wait a couple weeks to see what Yamaha is releasing soon, but pretty sure will buy the same model I had.
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Isn't compatible? That sounds weird. The kit is NOT supposed to allow the vehicle to move while in gear, so not sure if that is what you were expecting on how tight its set up to engage.
Isn't compatible? That sounds weird. The kit is NOT supposed to allow the vehicle to move while in gear, so not sure if that is what you were expecting on how tight its set up to engage.
I was told by Tom at TW that the car should slowly start rolling when put in gear to provide a smooth transition when the clutch fully engages. He said without the added torque the gearing kit provides, the IRP really doesn't work well with the stock gearing.
Isn't compatible? That sounds weird. The kit is NOT supposed to allow the vehicle to move while in gear, so not sure if that is what you were expecting on how tight its set up to engage. It should respond just like a CVT style clutch, slow and easy, where you can get it to drive at 1-2mph controlled
If you have the clutch mod, you can give it throttle with or without the clutch fully engaged. The IRP is made to take up that in-between stage, protecting the clutch system and providing a smoother delivery. After the clutch mod/IRP install, you can ignore the clutch light.
Yes, I understand how it works and as I stated it works perfectly except on a downshift with no torque on the drive train/clutch. if you apply too much throttle too soon the engine will rev up excessively then when engagement happens you get a shock load to the drive train just like dumping the clutch on a maxium launch.
i can tell a big difference in mine with stock gears.
Stock:
Really jumpy and jerky. especially on and off the trailer. Rev it up ans it would just launch all at once.

Heavy flywheel:
Smoothed out the launching some and could go a little slower. But i think it was a great improvement over stock. Especially the trail riding i do.

Clutch Mod & IRP:
The hard launching is completely gone. I can go even slower. The light does stay on longer like down said. So far i am really liking it.

The only thing i have noticed is the down shifting and a slight delay with it going fully in gear. Almost feels like you are riding the clutch for a half second. I did my fluid changes and the trans screen & oil looked great. I'm going riding Sat. If it happens then, i will get a video of it and post it.
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