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Glad it’s working out. NOT and expert in all this but I feel strongly that a lot of the issues with V1 GYTR has to do with tuning to meet CARB requirements. Just imagine trying to get the perfect tune map and then have to add emissions compliance. I’m hoping that since Alba does not have to deal with that, they can concentrate on performance only.
I should know in a couple weeks. Especially since the unit I’m installing came off a car that Yamaha couldn’t get to run right.
 

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Glad it’s working out. NOT and expert in all this but I feel strongly that a lot of the issues with V1 GYTR has to do with tuning to meet CARB requirements. Just imagine trying to get the perfect tune map and then have to add emissions compliance. I’m hoping that since Alba does not have to deal with that, they can concentrate on performance only.
I should know in a couple weeks. Especially since the unit I’m installing came off a car that Yamaha couldn’t get to run right.
The good news is that there is not much to these kits, and most parts are pretty rock solid. All I can see go wrong is maybe a bad ECU or Map Sensor (if electronics related) or perhaps a bad turbo or engine components (if hardware). Could be as simple as vacuum leaks, etc. in your case so say a prayer. As far as I can tell so far, when comparing the Gen 1 to Gen 2 GYTR Turbo ECU's using FTecu, they actually have identical tables.

As for issues with the Gen 1 kit vs. Gen 2, it is probably just a thing of Gen 1 kits have been around for about 4 years and sold plenty, whereas Gen 2 kits have been around for about 4 months and have sold far less. All said I have no doubts Gen 2 kits will see similar "issues" in time.
 

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I just about have the Gen 2 turbo kit installed.
Here are some pictures of the intercooler radiator, fan and mounting hardware.
View attachment 119940
View attachment 119939
View attachment 119938
View attachment 119937

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I just about have the Gen 2 turbo kit installed.
Here are some pictures of the intercooler radiator, fan and mounting hardware.
View attachment 119940
View attachment 119939
View attachment 119938
View attachment 119937
I'm in the process of modifying my V1 turbo with the new intercooler. Dumb question is how do these brackets not interfere with the electrical components/hood or is this in a different location now?
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. I'm really surprised those brackets don't interfere with the plastic on the driver side. I've tried every configuration and can't make it work without modifying that plastic.
 

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Yes that's true. It's now toward the front, more on the passenger side, just ahead of the front "firewall" and behind the diff area.
What do the instructions say about bleeding the intercooler? I am finding this is harder to bleed than the Gen 1 since there is no bleed port. I am thinking about modifing the cap so I can bleed thru the radiator overflow port.
 

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Well, I jacked up the front end way up in the air. My 4 post lift made this doable. Then just turned on the ignition and let the pump run, topped off coolant until there were no more bubbles.
The v1 kit has the fill port as the highest point in the back, and I was going to ask if the v2 has this as well. I guess not. I'd love to eliminate the clutter and potential pointless leak points but having it as a burp point is very useful to us guys without a lift. The loss in efficienty of having some trapped air in the intercooler is a lot less detrimental than air trapped in the top of an engine, but I still don't like it.

Thinking about looking into having the intercooler drilled and a fitting tig welded to burp after eliminating that fill point in the back when I move to the YFZ radiator.
 

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You may need to reroute your lines if you didn't already? Firstly that old fill/bleed canister point is not needed, so ideally remove or bypass it. Also remount the pump to the new location.

As far as I can tell you want to have the low point of the new front radiator (passenger side) running directly to the pump (which is newly mounted at a low point on the same side at the firewall), then from there to the high point (passenger side) of the rear Intercooler. From the Intercooler low point (Driver side) back down and to the Radiator high point (driver side).

Using the old routing arrangement maybe causing you some bleeding grief.

Curious to see how this fairs you with some better cooling results.
 

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You may need to reroute your lines if you didn't already? Firstly that old fill/bleed canister point is not needed, so ideally remove or bypass it. Also remount the pump to the new location.

As far as I can tell you want to have the low point of the new front radiator (passenger side) running directly to the pump (which is newly mounted at a low point on the same side at the firewall), then from there to the high point (passenger side) of the rear Intercooler. From the Intercooler low point (Driver side) back down and to the Radiator high point (driver side).

Using the old routing arrangement maybe causing you some bleeding grief.

Curious to see how this fairs you with some better cooling results.
I haven't done it yet, but I forsee air bubbles in the intercooler, which might make annoying sounds and won't mean 100% cooling capacity. The current system has the two highest points where you can burp. Without tilting the Y, there will be air in the intercooler without the added resevior. Bummer they don't put a valve on top of the intercooler for the v2.

Is the v2 parts the same? I'd love to have a high res full PDF of the install of the v2. Don't know if that would be against forum rules.
 

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I haven't done it yet, but I forsee air bubbles in the intercooler, which might make annoying sounds and won't mean 100% cooling capacity. The current system has the two highest points where you can burp. Without tilting the Y, there will be air in the intercooler without the added resevior. Bummer they don't put a valve on top of the intercooler for the v2.

Is the v2 parts the same? I'd love to have a high res full PDF of the install of the v2. Don't know if that would be against forum rules.
The way I’ve spelled it out, is how it is in the manual. And it’s been claimed that bleeding v2 is easier than v1. I certainly don’t see why it would be any worse. Guess we will need to try to actually confirm.
 

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The way I’ve spelled it out, is how it is in the manual. And it’s been claimed that bleeding v2 is easier than v1. I certainly don’t see why it would be any worse. Guess we will need to try to actually confirm.
Well, the intercooler is the highest spot in the back of the v2, right? The resovoir/cap is the second high spot in the v1 system(rad being the 1st). It's why the v1 front intercooler has a bleeder screw in combination with the rear fill port. If your highest point can't be bled of air, you are going to have air bubbles.
 

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Well, the intercooler is the highest spot in the back of the v2, right? The resovoir/cap is the second high spot in the v1 system(rad being the 1st). It's why the v1 front intercooler has a bleeder screw in combination with the rear fill port. If your highest point can't be bled of air, you are going to have air bubbles.
I suppose no one has made the v2 bleeding issues public yet then. Or maybe there’s a port on the v2 IC. All I’m saying is that I’d start routing stuff the ways the v2 install suggests to get off on right foot, and go from there. I’ve also not checked the highest spots, but figure the v2 front radiator at any sort of incline would easily be it. I agree we don’t want air in the system. After all else is done I’d leave the cap off and circulate it for a long while, while keeping levels at max.
 

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I suppose no one has made the v2 bleeding issues public yet then. Or maybe there’s a port on the v2 IC. All I’m saying is that I’d start routing stuff the ways the v2 install suggests to get off on right foot, and go from there. I’ve also not checked the highest spots, but figure the v2 front radiator at any sort of incline would easily be it. I agree we don’t want air in the system. After all else is done I’d leave the cap off and circulate it for a long while, while keeping levels at max.
Tlapolla said he jacked his in the air with a 4 point lift to solve the issue on v2. I'm thinking it's not a HUGE deal, but could cause audible continuous noise and not be 100% efficient.
 

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I think l prefer to leave the old fill canister in place to help in bleeding off air. I don't see any benefit in removing it and it helps remove air. The issue I have had is coolant leaks past the cap. It does not seal well between the cap and the canister. The canister neck is too long and most caps don't work well. However I have found one that I just installed that I think will solve the issue. I also don't think it makes much difference routing the hoses in the V1 vs V2 configuration. I am going to leave mine in the V1 configuration with the canister.

In bleeding the new system I have found that once you have the majority of the air out you close off the rear canister, turn on the pump, and then you can top off the radiator. The pump pulls from the bottom of the radiator and it pulls the coolant level down in the radiator surcharging the rest of the system. Once you top of the radiator put the cap back on before you shut off the pump.
 

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I think l prefer to leave the old fill canister in place to help in bleeding off air. I don't see any benefit in removing it and it helps remove air. The issue I have had is coolant leaks past the cap. It does not seal well between the cap and the canister. The canister neck is too long and most caps don't work well. However I have found one that I just installed that I think will solve the issue. I also don't think it makes much difference routing the hoses in the V1 vs V2 configuration. I am going to leave mine in the V1 configuration with the canister.

In bleeding the new system I have found that once you have the majority of the air out you close off the rear canister, turn on the pump, and then you can top off the radiator. The pump pulls from the bottom of the radiator and it pulls the coolant level down in the radiator surcharging the rest of the system. Once you top of the radiator put the cap back on before you shut off the pump.
Keep us posted on the outcome. The tiny bit of info I’ve seen/heard on the v2 kit is that it was easier to bleed than the v1 kit. So a hodgepodge of both I’d figured I’d shy away from, however if it works the same for you then that could sway me back.
 
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