Yamaha YXZ Forums banner
121 - 140 of 144 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
Had a difficult time bleeding my V1 until I unbolted the pump and let it “hang” during the process. In position, it sits just high enough to hold bubbles. Drop it and they pass right out.

BTW, got my V1 Turbo installed and it started right up. Runs well with the vehicle static. Put a fan on the engine and ran through 3-10minute heat cycles. I’m at 3800 ft and no odor of a rich condition.
Installed an 02 bung but no meter yet.
Next week will reinstall the cage and road test.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Had a difficult time bleeding my V1 until I unbolted the pump and let it “hang” during the process. In position, it sits just high enough to hold bubbles. Drop it and they pass right out.

BTW, got my V1 Turbo installed and it started right up. Runs well with the vehicle static. Put a fan on the engine and ran through 3-10minute heat cycles. I’m at 3800 ft and no odor of a rich condition.
Installed an 02 bung but no meter yet.
Next week will reinstall the cage and road test.
Same for me on dropping the pump. Iit will be a few weeks before I get out for a solid run but I will report back
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
Wonder if the V2 routing/setup needs this drop pump effort? Maybe this is what has been making the v1 bleeding known to be difficult.

I haven't installed my v1 (with v2 radiator) kit yet but would prefer it to be the easiest to deal with/service and can make it whatever which way I want during install. Filling the radiator and letting the pump do its thing would be great, even if it requires just a front end raise that is good by me.
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
So did you guys with the v1 kit but upgrading to the v2 radiator end up doing away with the v1 bleed port hardware and making the backend and pump location like the v2 kit, or just making it a hybrid v1/v2 setup by leaving the v1 kits backend and pump location the same and only adding the v2 radiator up front?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
So did you guys with the v1 kit but upgrading to the v2 radiator end up doing away with the v1 bleed port hardware and making the backend and pump location like the v2 kit, or just making it a hybrid v1/v2 setup by leaving the v1 kits backend and pump location the same and only adding the v2 radiator up front?
I was thinking about v1 bleeding the other day, and remembered that most water pump systems pull on the cold side for pump component longevity right? I think our system's pulling from the heat exchanger, and pushing to the intercooler/fill resevoir, is why there is so much struggle bleeding with V1 kits. When you fill the loop from the back fill port, you are really filling up the "push" side and not the "pull" side. Filling from the cold side in the v2 makes a ton more sense, and I'd think the only reason they relocate the water pump is ease of install and wiring, since there's already power being routed to the heat exchanger fan now anyways.

This doesn't mean we shouldn't have a bleed point at any local high spots. My plan this winter is a 25mm thermocouple adaptor in line, as near the intercooler in the top part of the loop as possible, maybe even purposly mounted/routed above the intercooler, to be able to bleed both local maximums.

Have we gotten confimration that the v2 kit doens't have any bleed port near the hot side? It seems insane that it wouldn't, but maybe they determined the air bubbles would eventually escape to the cold side? I don't buy it though.
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
I was thinking about v1 bleeding the other day, and remembered that most water pump systems pull on the cold side for pump component longevity right? I think our system's pulling from the heat exchanger, and pushing to the intercooler/fill resevoir, is why there is so much struggle bleeding with V1 kits. When you fill the loop from the back fill port, you are really filling up the "push" side and not the "pull" side. Filling from the cold side in the v2 makes a ton more sense, and I'd think the only reason they relocate the water pump is ease of install and wiring, since there's already power being routed to the heat exchanger fan now anyways.

This doesn't mean we shouldn't have a bleed point at any local high spots. My plan this winter is a 25mm thermocouple adaptor in line, as near the intercooler in the top part of the loop as possible, maybe even purposly mounted/routed above the intercooler, to be able to bleed both local maximums.

Have we gotten confimration that the v2 kit doens't have any bleed port near the hot side? It seems insane that it wouldn't, but maybe they determined the air bubbles would eventually escape to the cold side? I don't buy it though.
I think I am going to mount my v1 pump in the v2 location and install as much as I can like the v2 kit. All I can see about the v2 kit setup is that it is intended to be bled through the radiator up front, as the rest is all sealed. The only Intercooler differences v1 to v2 are that the bungs are angled differently (as applicable to the line routing), and the v2 Intercooler looks to be a bit less of a quality part than the v1 unit overall. Pending on how I route my lines I may re-do my connecting bung angles (ie. point them out straight or as needed), as the v1 fill/bleed port I am convinced I am setting aside.

Worse come to worse and if bleeding is a hassle with the v2 method of install, we could always add this to the back (giving a fill/bleed port at both ends):

For your thermocouple setup the v2 radiator has a provision already, t'was the native fitting for the coolant temp sensor for the YFZ450R from which the radiator was re-purposed. I have a triple AEM gauge setup, one of them being a coolant temp (for the IC system), with an adapter to use that port.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
I think I am going to mount my v1 pump in the v2 location and install as much as I can like the v2 kit. All I can see about the v2 kit setup is that it is intended to be bled through the radiator up front, as the rest is all sealed. The only Intercooler differences v1 to v2 are that the bungs are angled differently (as applicable to the line routing), and the v2 Intercooler looks to be a bit less of a quality part than the v1 unit overall. Pending on how I route my lines I may re-do my connecting bung angles (ie. point them out straight or as needed), as the v1 fill/bleed port I am convinced I am setting aside.

Worse come to worse and if bleeding is a hassle with the v2 method of install, we could always add this to the back (giving a fill/bleed port at both ends):

For your thermocouple setup the v2 radiator has a provision already, t'was the native fitting for the coolant temp sensor for the YFZ450R from which the radiator was re-purposed. I have a triple AEM gauge setup, one of them being a coolant temp (for the IC system), with an adapter to use that port.
The location of the pump isn't of primary concern. The only important part is making sure the inlet side has good supply, which the v1 kit is bad at. As long as the pump is lower than whatever the water level is in the heat exchanger end where it draws from, it should be fine. It will allow you to clean up wiring runs, too, though it will cost a few bucks in hosing or a hard line adaptor.

The thermocouple at the outlet of the intercooler COULD be more useful than the heat exchanger thermocouple. The closer the measurement to the cold air/hot water end of the intercooler, the closer that temp should match to the intake air temp, which for perofmrance measurement, is all that really matters. You could also, with an advanced ECU, probably set the pump and fan to only run in specific conditions, such as if the intercooler temp is within 5 or 10 degrees of the heat exchanger temp, shut down the pump, in cases like warmup/idle/low speed cruise. Also, would be a huge red flag something is wrong if you ever saw the intercooler thermocouple being many degrees higher than the heat exchanger thermocouple. Would be a good early warning your pump could be dying, or the system ran dry.

And a thermocouple adaptor with plug isntead of the sensor should be cheaper and lighter than the fill port, something like this: Amazon.com
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
I left everything the same as the V1 and just swapped out the cooler. I didn't see any advantage in removing the fill tank in the back or moving the pump. It does help bleed the system.
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
The location of the pump isn't of primary concern. The only important part is making sure the inlet side has good supply, which the v1 kit is bad at. As long as the pump is lower than whatever the water level is in the heat exchanger end where it draws from, it should be fine. It will allow you to clean up wiring runs, too, though it will cost a few bucks in hosing or a hard line adaptor.

The thermocouple at the outlet of the intercooler COULD be more useful than the heat exchanger thermocouple. The closer the measurement to the cold air/hot water end of the intercooler, the closer that temp should match to the intake air temp, which for perofmrance measurement, is all that really matters. You could also, with an advanced ECU, probably set the pump and fan to only run in specific conditions, such as if the intercooler temp is within 5 or 10 degrees of the heat exchanger temp, shut down the pump, in cases like warmup/idle/low speed cruise. Also, would be a huge red flag something is wrong if you ever saw the intercooler thermocouple being many degrees higher than the heat exchanger thermocouple. Would be a good early warning your pump could be dying, or the system ran dry.

And a thermocouple adaptor with plug isntead of the sensor should be cheaper and lighter than the fill port, something like this: Amazon.com
You are overthinking the coolant temp sensor placement with your consideration of air intake temps and getting way ahead thinking about advanced ECU/pump logic as if we are trying to go to the moon here lol. Ultimately if you want to monitor IATs then cut to the chase and monitor IATs directly. The point here is to measure the coolant temps to ensure they are being hold as close to ambient as possible, and/or to ensure the system is able to keep the coolant temps suppressed well enough in conditions x/y/z. Whether this data sample is at the hotside of the Intercooler in the back or at the hotside of the Radiator up front, will give a good enough handle on things. That is the point of why I am doing the sensor anyway making sure the coolant temps stay "controlled" and with that we are doing all we can do for the IATs (without investing in more and more hardware anyway). If I find these coolant temps runaway at times then I'd likely start to reconsider the hardware, or learn to drive around it (if I can).

The v1/v2 kits both have the pump running full time with key on/engine on; but I was going to install it with a delay start relay (about a minute or so), just for those quick moves/starts/re-starts/warm-ups/etc that would otherwise be a waste of the current draw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
You are overthinking the coolant temp sensor placement with your consideration of air intake temps and getting way ahead thinking about advanced ECU/pump logic as if we are trying to go to the moon here lol. Ultimately if you want to monitor IATs then cut to the chase and monitor IATs directly. The point here is to measure the coolant temps to ensure they are being hold as close to ambient as possible, and/or to ensure the system is able to keep the coolant temps suppressed well enough in conditions x/y/z. Whether this data sample is at the hotside of the Intercooler in the back or at the hotside of the Radiator up front, will give a good enough handle on things. That is the point of why I am doing the sensor anyway making sure the coolant temps stay "controlled" and with that we are doing all we can do for the IATs (without investing in more and more hardware anyway). If I find these coolant temps runaway at times then I'd likely start to reconsider the hardware, or learn to drive around it (if I can).

The v1/v2 kits both have the pump running full time with key on/engine on; but I was going to install it with a delay start relay (about a minute or so), just for those quick moves/starts/re-starts/warm-ups/etc that would otherwise be a waste of the current draw.
Well, a temp sensor "bleed" bung would be cheaper and lighter than a fill port, and could just be populated with a plug. I wish the intercooler came with a bleed on top of the body of it, and we wouldn't need any adapter, but yea.

I think you are right, the radiator sensor is already hot water side, which makes sense if it's the only water temp location on the bike. A person could do some cool flow control and fan control with the three values though.

I'd beware of a initial delay circuit, unless you are watching IATs. I don't know about your riding group, but I've pulled up to our parked group and shut down my engine just to see everyone start up and hammer off immediately. A minute delay on warm start could be disastrous in certain situations.
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
Well, a temp sensor "bleed" bung would be cheaper and lighter than a fill port, and could just be populated with a plug. I wish the intercooler came with a bleed on top of the body of it, and we wouldn't need any adapter, but yea.

I think you are right, the radiator sensor is already hot water side, which makes sense if it's the only water temp location on the bike. A person could do some cool flow control and fan control with the three values though.

I'd beware of a initial delay circuit, unless you are watching IATs. I don't know about your riding group, but I've pulled up to our parked group and shut down my engine just to see everyone start up and hammer off immediately. A minute delay on warm start could be disastrous in certain situations.
The bleed bung could be a good way to do it, too. Guess will see if doing anything at all seems necessary soon enough, if so splicing in something in back would take a few moments.

As the delay is adjustable I will fiddle around with it and see what makes the most sense, was just mentioning it as a simple concept as I just don't see the need of always having the pump running at every instance the engine turns on. If a better trigger setup is found someday (ie. coolant temp switch at right temp) I'm all ears, but I threw in the towel on that search months ago. I have to think that IATs on this v1 turbo at stock boost for most normal riding scenarios are not going to be catastrophic regardless.
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
Well, a temp sensor "bleed" bung would be cheaper and lighter than a fill port, and could just be populated with a plug. I wish the intercooler came with a bleed on top of the body of it, and we wouldn't need any adapter, but yea.

I think you are right, the radiator sensor is already hot water side, which makes sense if it's the only water temp location on the bike. A person could do some cool flow control and fan control with the three values though.

I'd beware of a initial delay circuit, unless you are watching IATs. I don't know about your riding group, but I've pulled up to our parked group and shut down my engine just to see everyone start up and hammer off immediately. A minute delay on warm start could be disastrous in certain situations.
You seen this? 1/2” NPT. Choice of 25* increments from 0-250* and can option for normally open or closed.

Think using a 75-100* normally open would be the way to go for fan trigger, mounted at the hot side heat exhanger/radiator. And maybe 50-75* normally open if using as a trigger for pump, mounted at the hot side Intercooler? Or perhaps just pump full time engine on and cycle fan at 75*.

Something more to ponder now lol.

 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
Went ahead and ordered that 75* Normally Open Temp switch and an 1/2" NPT weld on female bung to weld to the Heat Exchanger/Radiator. Going to use this to cycle the v2 heat exchangers cooling fan rather than the timing-delay-on relay I'd planned on using prior to finding this temp switch. I feel like it could end up being a bit too cool and run the fan a bit more than I'd prefer, but also the next choice is 100* which could be a bit hotter than I'd prefer too (may try it later if seems worthwhile); for now this has to be better than just always having the fan running regardless of coolant temps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
I have my fan on a rocker switch. I have a water temp gauge that I use to monitor temperatures. I find that I run the fan more than not. I don't think you can be too cold when it comes to intake air.
 

·
Registered
2019 YXZ1000R SS SE White
Joined
·
419 Posts
I have my fan on a rocker switch. I have a water temp gauge that I use to monitor temperatures. I find that I run the fan more than not. I don't think you can be too cold when it comes to intake air.
Yeah, in the name of IAT's is why I error'd to the 75* switch. Plus I ride in a lot of colder weather so I think it will help a lot minimizing the fan on time, but yeah on the warmer days it will be on almost all of the time fortunately having some control over itself such that I don't have to worry about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Went ahead and ordered that 75* Normally Open Temp switch and an 1/2" NPT weld on female bung to weld to the Heat Exchanger/Radiator. Going to use this to cycle the v2 heat exchangers cooling fan rather than the timing-delay-on relay I'd planned on using prior to finding this temp switch. I feel like it could end up being a bit too cool and run the fan a bit more than I'd prefer, but also the next choice is 100* which could be a bit hotter than I'd prefer too (may try it later if seems worthwhile); for now this has to be better than just always having the fan running regardless of coolant temps.
It sounds like that system doesn't have any on/off overlap, which is unfortunate. Probably fine, but in certain circumstances it might turn the fan off/on rapidly. This danger should be reduced since it will be triggering on the hot end. I miiiight have a master on or master off switch to prevent that.

75* is probably a good number. I'd say 100 would be too high. If only there was a dual-measure >10* over ambient sensor.
 
121 - 140 of 144 Posts
Top