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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm confused what that means. I get the on demand thing - works great for trail riding, works horrible for slow speed rock crawling type stuff. Does the lock actually lock it in 4WD so the front tires are driven before the rear spins?
 

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Manually selected knob:
2WD
4WD (No "slippage" required.) Essentially 3WD
4WD with front differential locked (No "slippage" required.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I understand that, but that doesn't answer my question. A diff can both be locked, but not driven. For instance, I have ARB air lockers in my buggy. I can lock the differential so both tires turn at the same rate, but take the transfer case out of gear for that axle so it is not driven.

My question is, are both diffs (front and rear) always locked and driven when this mode is engaged? Or do the rear wheels have to spin before the front wheels spin?

Or when they refer to diff lock, are they talking about a center diff that locks so both driveshafts always turn? And if that's the case, is the rear or front always locked?
 

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1. 2WD = Rear axle is "locked". Front Differential is Unlocked. No power applied to front differential.
2. 4WD = Rear axle is "locked". Front differential is Unlocked. Power is being constantly applied to the rear axle and the front differential with no slippage required. This is exactly the same as a vehicle having a transfer case placed in 4WD.
3. 4WD Locked = Rear axle is "locked". Front differential is Locked. Power is being constantly applied to the rear axle and the front differential with no slippage required. This is exactly the same as a vehicle having a transfer case placed in 4WD and the front differential locked.
 

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Rear diff will also be locked. 4wd will engage the front diff but it will be an open diff. 4wd lock will lock the front diff, all 4 wheels will turn.

EDIT: Or what he said ^^^ as I was typing, lol...
 

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The rear is always locked, 2WD position. The selector switch only effects the front diff.
As RSD said above: the 4wd position engages only 1 front wheel, then the full lock position engages the other front wheel.
They should pull at the same time & rate as both rear wheels when they are engaged. engagement should be immediate, no spinning required
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1. 2WD = Rear axle is "locked". Front Differential is Unlocked. No power applied to front differential.
2. 4WD = Rear axle is "locked". Front differential is Unlocked. Power is being constantly applied to the rear axle and the front differential with no slippage required. This is exactly the same as a vehicle having a transfer case placed in 4WD.
3. 4WD Locked = Rear axle is "locked". Front differential is Locked. Power is being constantly applied to the rear axle and the front differential with no slippage required. This is exactly the same as a vehicle having a transfer case placed in 4WD and the front differential locked.
The rear is always locked, 2WD position. The selector switch only effects the front diff.
As RSD said above: the 4wd position engages only 1 front wheel, then the full lock position engages the other front wheel.
They should pull at the same time & rate as both rear wheels when they are engaged. engagement should be immediate, no spinning required
Thank you.
 

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The only other component that is involved is the clutch in the transmission that feeds the front differential which is designed to slip under high spike-loads to protect the front differential from damage. (i.e. When landing from a jump in 4WD / 4WD Locked with the throttle on.)

Hopefully, it is more robust than the "Spike Load Dampener" on the Wildcat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Does it break or slip if its overloaded? I'm assuming if it breaks, the breakable part is a lot less money than axles or diff?

The other side to the question would be asking how the RZR guys like snapping axles all the time, upgrading, then breaking transmissions and differentials. A fuse in the system doesn't seem like an unreasonable idea.

I assume AC's execution of it wasn't great?
 

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Arctic Cat's Spike Load Dampener "Pops" / "Ratchets" when you get too high of a load. The problem is that, even with a stock engine, every time it pops, it lowers the threshold so that it continually pops easier and easier until it slips anytime that you're under a load.

Some people either welded the Spike Load Dampener so that it couldn't slip, or installed a Spike Load Dampener eliminator. (NO slip)

Yamaha's is truly a multi-plate wet clutch.
 

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Arctic Cat's Spike Load Dampener "Pops" / "Ratchets" when you get too high of a load. The problem is that, even with a stock engine, every time it pops, it lowers the threshold so that it continually pops easier and easier until it slips anytime that you're under a load.

Some people either welded the Spike Load Dampener so that it couldn't slip, or installed a Spike Load Dampener eliminator. (NO slip)

Yamaha's is truly a multi-plate wet clutch.
Exactly right
 
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