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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I had the same problem with my 2017 SS. Check that the automatic fan switch is working. Mine had an intermittent problem, that we didn't discover until after installing a high capacity radiator and fan. We could never find the problem, so we added a manual switch. With the thermostat removed (another effort we tried to solve the problem), the temps are much cooler and the heat from the radiator is much less of a problem. Bleeding the engine is difficult because the coolant lines are lower than the engine and radiator. I think there’s a hose on the right side of the engine you can loosen to help burp the air out of the engine, or hang it from the front bumper.
i really like the manual switch idea. I need to figure out how to tap into the correct wire, etc... Also, does your firewall on the side adjacent to your right leg get hotter then Hades? Were you able to put your high cap radiator in the same spot as the stock? I see they have kits to mount the radiator in the back in the cargo area, but i'm not crazy about that idea. Thanks for all your help and ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Definitely a air bubble, they suck! Ruining my first trip out with mine I have been there myself. Process is pretty simple loosen (to bleed don't remove) the small bolt, I believe is a 8mm behind the Thermostat housing (passenger side), then open the radiator cap. run the machine without the cap and you will see the fluid level go down at 165F (when the radiator kicks in) keep filling until no more bubble appear, which will be multiple. To make your world happier, and cleaner I would suggest purchasing a no spill radiator funnel, should take 15x20 minutes. My 2017 fan pops on around 205 - 210 and holds around there. I ended up installing a Hess Override switch and just leave the fan on now 155 - 167.
Great suggestions. i will have to find out where the housing bolt is for the bleeding that you referenced. for some reason the link for the funnel isnt working. When you get a chance i'm very curious what a Hess Override switch is and how you mounted it. sounds like a very good idea.
 

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Great suggestions. i will have to find out where the housing bolt is for the bleeding that you referenced. for some reason the link for the funnel isnt working. When you get a chance i'm very curious what a Hess Override switch is and how you mounted it. sounds like a very good idea.
The nut is super easy to find and is on top of the metal tube that comes after the thermostat, a few turns and it will slowly leak out the coolant=no worries. I just cut a hole for the Hess switch under the emergency brake and it looks nice there and gives a cool factor when getting ready for a hill climb, drag race etc. Yes the YXZ's run hot in the firewall but I am ok with that given the performance I get. When out running on the trail and getting a breeze in the cabin it runs no hotter than my 450r's on my right leg so doesn't really bother me (We all have pipe scars right). As overkill I am considering installing a marine exhaust fan in there to exit the hot air even more, its a typical RZR mod for keeping the belts cooler. Haven't done that yet though. Just look up the a no spill kit, should be under $20 and is a life changer. I keep it in my riding kit with extra fluids etc in the truck when out riding
 

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I have a 2016 and had the unpleasant experience of showering in coolant when the reservoir cap popped off from over heating at Busco Beach. I tried custom blockers/guards after that to keep the radiator clean and after continuing to run hot just ended up doing the rear relocate. Along with the Weller tune it was the best mod I have made, temp only runs 185-195 now due to clean radiator in the rear and lower fan cut-on temps.

Like others said bleed the air at the rear by thermostat and be sure to get radiator clean enough that you can see through it, I used coil cleaner and a hose and couldn't believe how much dirt came out of mine.
 

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Forgot to mention....do not use a high pressure cap, I tried that and fortune for me only blew out the weak front part of the thermostat, which was warped when I bought the used machine...didn't see it until I had showered the garage with coolant ,,, reading further the water pump doesn't like the pressure glad if found the weak spot
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Great suggestions. i will have to find out where the housing bolt is for the bleeding that you referenced. for some reason the link for the funnel isnt working. When you get a chance i'm very curious what a Hess Override switch is and how you mounted it. sounds like a very good idea.
i figured out what your Hess switch was. Looks like it might be tricky to set up; Is it plug and play? ....sounds like you mounted it in the plastic below the hand brake, do i have that correct? Thanks again.
 

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I went with the DZmotorsports fan override loom--it is plug and play with very good instructions. I used it because i was also installing a couple of gauges and DZ give you an extra acc hookup. The Hess maybe the same, I have a few of their products and they are first rate. This has been one of the best extras that I have installed. flipping on the fan switch will get my temp down to approx. 170 degrees quickly even on 100 degree days.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Another issue is the back side of the rad. I would suggest hosing out the front really good, and then get a good flashlight and look at the back side of the rad. Many times you will see the back is plugged up too, thus not allowing proper airflow. I have made it a point to hosing (not pressure washing) the rad everytime I wash it.
...I took your suggestion and viewed the radiator. I would estimate that at least 50% of it looks to be blocked. Sand looks to be clogging the fins big time!! I seriously doubt that the guy that owned this 17' ever sprayed out the fins, etc....

Any suggestions on a soap to help loosen the packed sand?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I have a 2016 and had the unpleasant experience of showering in coolant when the reservoir cap popped off from over heating at Busco Beach. I tried custom blockers/guards after that to keep the radiator clean and after continuing to run hot just ended up doing the rear relocate. Along with the Weller tune it was the best mod I have made, temp only runs 185-195 now due to clean radiator in the rear and lower fan cut-on temps.

Like others said bleed the air at the rear by thermostat and be sure to get radiator clean enough that you can see through it, I used coil cleaner and a hose and couldn't believe how much dirt came out of mine.
.I took your suggestion and viewed the radiator. I would estimate that at least 50% of it looks to be blocked. Sand looks to be clogging the fins big time!! I seriously doubt that the guy that owned this 17' ever sprayed out the fins, etc....

Any suggestions on a soap to help loosen the packed sand?
 

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I have a 2016 and had the unpleasant experience of showering in coolant when the reservoir cap popped off from over heating at Busco Beach. I tried custom blockers/guards after that to keep the radiator clean and after continuing to run hot just ended up doing the rear relocate. Along with the Weller tune it was the best mod I have made, temp only runs 185-195 now due to clean radiator in the rear and lower fan cut-on temps.

Like others said bleed the air at the rear by thermostat and be sure to get radiator clean enough that you can see through it, I used coil cleaner and a hose and couldn't believe how much dirt came out of mine.
I wasnt wanting to relocate my rad so I thought id try this outerwear or frog skin type cover to keep the mud or even just dirty water out to keep the rad cooling. I had it out last weekend and it worked perfectly. flows lots of air and after a real good cleaning of rad before install it ran cooler than ever even with this film in front. once we hit some mud and dirty puddles i did use my glove to clean off the film and no mud ever got into the rad. I had it built custom from them and so glad i did as i found it plugged and hard to clean in the bush.
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great idea. What exactly did you have built a custom, as you said?
I had Outterwears build me the white cover in the picture to cover the rad to keep the dirt out. I made it 17x17" and cheap. They have it in their system as Rad cover for YXZ1000r. they build them for Polaris etc but had nothing for YXZ. they offer one with tabs on it that might work well to attach it but i bought 2 of them and if this one gets beat up ill just replace it was my thoughts.

 

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...I took your suggestion and viewed the radiator. I would estimate that at least 50% of it looks to be blocked. Sand looks to be clogging the fins big time!! I seriously doubt that the guy that owned this 17' ever sprayed out the fins, etc....

Any suggestions on a soap to help loosen the packed sand?
I found that just flushing for a while will clean it out. I suppose some Simple Green or something may help, but there is no grease or anything so it cleans up pretty easily. I considered the rad relocate, but that causes issues too when running front and rear windshields when the weather sucks. Also, a branch punching a hole in the rad thats right behind my head didn't seem like a good plan. The rad relocate has its place in the dunes, or in wide open areas but that's not remotely close to what I ride.
 

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I bought a $4.00 pump sprayer off Amazon and carry it with me along with some extra water. It works if I need a quick rinse while out. I also use it to clean the windshield. Something to keep in mind, if you spray down your rad and it's dusty, wait a few minutes for the rad to dry or the dust will stick immediately to the wet fins.
 

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Never would have guessed that one. Do u spray down the radiator with the big hood in the way or do u remove?
 

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I found that just flushing for a while will clean it out. I suppose some Simple Green or something may help, but there is no grease or anything so it cleans up pretty easily. I considered the rad relocate, but that causes issues too when running front and rear windshields when the weather sucks. Also, a branch punching a hole in the rad thats right behind my head didn't seem like a good plan. The rad relocate has its place in the dunes, or in wide open areas but that's not remotely close to what I ride.
I guess I consider myself more of a trail rider also. Also though the beach in Corpus Christi has a nice 4 wheel drive section. Got me thinking. I’m not too crazy about the hot as hell firewall next to my gas pedal leg. I agree the thought of putting a radiator on top of my mini rear deck stinks. I’m not a fan of the hot cockpit
 

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I wasnt wanting to relocate my rad so I thought id try this outerwear or frog skin type cover to keep the mud or even just dirty water out to keep the rad cooling. I had it out last weekend and it worked perfectly. flows lots of air and after a real good cleaning of rad before install it ran cooler than ever even with this film in front. once we hit some mud and dirty puddles i did use my glove to clean off the film and no mud ever got into the rad. I had it built custom from them and so glad i did as i found it plugged and hard to clean in the bush. View attachment 118891 View attachment 118892
But is it difficult to put on? I’m figuring out how to remove all that wonderful plastic body pieces, to do any kind of maintenance whatsoever. Not fun
 

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I guess I consider myself more of a trail rider also. Also though the beach in Corpus Christi has a nice 4 wheel drive section. Got me thinking. I’m not too crazy about the hot as hell firewall next to my gas pedal leg. I agree the thought of putting a radiator on top of my mini rear deck stinks. I’m not a fan of the hot cockpit
Go to your favorite big box lumber store, and get some rubber pipe insulation. Cover up as much of the coolant lines as you can. I also cut a 6” hole in the plastic so the hot air has somewhere to go when the fan comes on.

Made a huge difference in the heat. The tunnel still gets warm, but it stays cool enough that I can rest my leg on it comfortably. No issues with engine temps either.
 
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