[RealtreeYXZ]

Although the process sucks, it seems as though the end result is net positive. Albeit still costly on your end for someone elses ignorance and irresponsibility. I would lean toward replacing the two RC2's or buying all four King or Elkas. I think getting the car to balance with mis-matched shocks could get tricky, IMO. Sounds like it will be a monster of a build when its complete! Keep us updated on the build progress.

 

[K&M]

I got off the phone with my insurance adjuster and shop doing the work today. I'm 99% certain it is not going to be declared totaled, and insurance will pay for all the damages, of course I have to pay the deductible.

So here's my idea:
The frame has to be replaced, which means it'll be stripped down to nothing, which means the motor will be pulled out. My yxz on 7 pounds of boost and stock motor hauls ass, but everyone wants a little more power. I don't mind the cost of boost ready internals and a clutch to handle higher boost, but the labor is expensive. If insurance will be paying the shop to pull the motor (along with everything else), I might as well bite the bullet and get the motor done to turn up the boost a little and do it reliably, and pay for the labor to tear down the motor. I need a new rear diff, might as well get something like a packard diff? My driveshaft is cracked, might as well get a beefier drive shaft, it needs to be replaced anyways.

Left rear shock is bent, after I just bought a set of 4 RC2's from Alan Anderson in Oregon, then had them shipped to Weller to get valved and sprung. So in the repair estimate the shop is including the cost of 2 brand new RC2's, and getting them done by Weller again. My question is instead of going with factory Fox's, has anyone had any experience with rear shocks like Kings or Elkas? If they work right out the box it'll be around the same as 2 brand new RC2's then getting them valved and sprung. Just a thought.

I know I'm probably getting ahead of myself here. My main concern is having it done by dune season. I spent all this time and money on the long travel, turbo, shocks, and other stuff and only took it out maybe 3 times before this happened. I really love Pismo, once the weather here in the central valley starts touching the 90s, its dune season. Last time I went was August 2022 and that was before the turbo and long travel, back then I was going close to every other week from June- August. I'd love to have it done by late May, but I doubt it, who knows how long it'll take for all the parts to come in.

Just take it one step at a time I guess, my main goal is to have all the parts needed on order ASAP, then see the price of rods, pistons, clutching, injectors, estimated labor on my end, etc., and go from there...

I would start with a conversation with the shop doing the work and a quote from aonther shop. And see if doing the motor work while it is already out actually saves you any money. Dealerships are known to double dip on labor.

For example, a car at the dealership for a timing belt replacement. Step one of the job is to remove the serpentine belt. If you also ask them to replace the serpentine belt while they are at it, most places will charge you extra labor for doing so. Because they can.

 

[Hunter]

I would recommend you use the drive shaft money to upgrade to an Avenger drive shaft.

 

[ZUMNyxzSS]

Kings sound great. For the YXZ it's 2.5 fronts and 3.0s rears on their website, unsure of the travel of the shocks ...
I do hear frames are backordered quite a bit.

 

[2017ssse]

So I gave Weller a call and they said the max boost I can run on 91 is 10 pounds. Kyle wrote up an estimate for everything I need to make it happen, minus the BOV since I already have that. I just don't really know if nearly 6 grand is worth a 3 psi upgrade, not including the labor to tear down the motor. He did inform me that every 1psi bump is ~12hp to the wheels, so 3 psi would be roughly a 36hp increase to the wheels

 

[ZUMNyxzSS]

@2017ssse I say unless you are chasing a big turbo number to run race fuel or E-85, don't do it and instead first get yourself a nice billet rear diff from Larue or Proformance, upgraded axles, BOOSTLok and driveshaft.

Bulletproof your car.

Heck, even then, keep your car as is and get the parts you need to run E-85. You'll get more power and run cooler.

Moving it up to 10psi on pump gas, dunno about that.

And at 10psi prob best to get your head work done while the cap is out. It will compliment your build big time, if you end up going that route.

Wellers pricing seems fair. Good luck bro 🫱🏻‍🫲🏼
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[2017ssse]

@2017ssse I say unless you are chasing a big turbo number to run race fuel or E-85, don't do it and instead first get yourself a nice billet rear diff from Larue or Proformance, upgraded axles, BOOSTLok and driveshaft.

Bulletproof your car.

Heck, even then, keep your car as is and get the parts you need to run E-85. You'll get more power and run cooler.

Moving it up to 10psi on pump gas, dunno about that.

And at 10psi prob best to get your head work done while the cap is out. It will compliment your build big time, if you end up going that route.

Wellers pricing seems fair. Good luck bro 🫱🏻‍🫲🏼
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Yeah man I've been going back and forth with Weller the last few days. I have demon axles, they said if I want to keep the cost down the 2019+ diffs can hold power much better than the previous years, boostlok is a must, I'm considering an avenger driveshaft but if its not needed then I wont fork out the extra 600 bucks for it.

Like I said though I want to get this whole insurance repair and timeframe sorted out, then start doing some cool work to it while it's torn apart. I was also thinking painted plastics...? Something to make it stand out from the crowd, or maybe a wrap. I don't want to get over my head just yet however

 

[asphaltsucks]

Don’t run this through your insurance. You got hit, use their insurance. This way you don’t have to pay the deductible. Also, get repair estimates from a couple of shops. In CA you can pick whatever shop you want to use. Just have the other persons insurance give you the check. This way you can save money by disassembling yourself and put towards upgrades.