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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not a mechanic, but have done a lot of my own work on machines. I would value your constructive thoughts about:
The manual says to drain oil tank and engine crankcase. It says to remove the engine oil cap and the oil tank cap (dipstick). To refill, it says to add oil to the tank, but makes no mention of adding any to the engine itself. So, I did what was instructed...added oil to the oil tank...started it up....made a clattering noise for a couple seconds and then was sounding fine. Then I checked and added more oil to the tank.
To me, after doing this, it seemed I started the engine dry, until the oil could be pumped from the tank. Seems to me, after doing this once....I will no longer drain the engine and leave that 1/2 quart in there..so I'm not starting it dry. Otherwise I could drain the engine and toss a 1/2 quart into the engine itself along with filling the oil tank. Am I over paranoid of this dry sump system? Thoughts?

Another thing, not claiming to be an expert on oils....since the clutch is in the transmission housing and separate from the engine...why does the manual NOT say to use a wet clutch approved motorcycle oil? It just says to use motor oil....??? Shouldn't you use mc oil in the tranny for sure...and you could use any high performance oil in the engine..even if it's not wet clutch approved?

Ladies and gentlemen...pass along some wisdom. Thanks in advance!

By the way...I plan to use yamalube 15-50 in both..full synthetic. Though I ran rotella in my rhino for years!
 

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I'm glad you asked this question, Yamajohn...I experienced the same thing. WHY do they tell you to remove the engine oil cap for no reason at all? Typo? Next time I am putting that half quart into the motor itself!
 

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There has to be a way to put a remote starter on the starter and crank the engine over so the oil pressure comes up ,then start with the key!
 

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Just pre fill the filter and put half a quart of oil back into the motor through the filler is what I'm doing from now on.
 
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The main pressure oil pump is fed oil directly off the tank, so adding oil to crank case won't change how fast the bearings receive their oil supply. The filter is after the main pressure pump.

The transmission likely uses Yamalube 2C 20W40 trans lube.... can anyone confirm?
 

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I think mad viking is right. I added half a quart to my valve cover and filled the filter before cranking and it still rattled. My plan is unplug the fuel pump or coil packs and prime it with the starter.
The manual has you remove the cap so that it will drain easier.
 

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This is all much needed info !

I was planning on doing my first transmission change at 30 miles. And then doing the motor and diffs at 100 miles.

I have always heard not to put synthetic in the wet clutch system because it is too slick.

Since I will probably change it every 150 miles (or 15 hours) after the first time, I am just using a good ole 10w40 motor oil.
I will run T6 synthetic in the motor and the mobile 1 75W/90 gear oil in the rear diff.

What about the front diff tho? Does gear oil go in there too?

And keep us posted on the best way to restart after an oil change too.
Thanks!
 

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There is plenty of residual oil on the cylinder walls after draining to prevent dry starts. If the noise lasts more than a few seconds id shutdown and try again. I doubt that will happen.

Gear oil goes in both diff your choice of brand, engine oil goes in trans, synthetic is not too slick for any clutch pack unless you use the wrong rating. Your T6 will run beautifully in your transmission with no issues.
 

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I experianced the same thing today. Wasn't comfortable with the process outlined in the manual. Next oil change I too will put some oil directly into the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Thanks everyone for you thoughts. Still...shouldn't the transmission oil be wet clutch acceptable...IE: no friction modifiers...aka motorcycle oil. Of course, as I have learned diesel engine oil such as Rotella if fine...no friction modifiers. I am surprised they..Yamaha, don't specify this in the manual. Am I missing something?
 

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I think you can save a few bucks and go with the Rotella oil and feel good about it. It's already been proven to work well in a lot of Motorsports applications.
 
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I tried adding a half a quart to the motor and it doesn't help, still rattled for a second. My plan is to pull the ignition fuse and prime with the starter.
 

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I tried adding a half a quart to the motor and it doesn't help, still rattled for a second. My plan is to pull the ignition fuse and prime with the starter.
Adding oil to the output side oil pump will not give you pressure. If it bothers you disconnect the coil packs or drag the thing around the block in gear and ignition off.
 

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I experianced the same thing today. Wasn't comfortable with the process outlined in the manual. Next oil change I too will put some oil directly into the engine.
I had the same thing happen on the first oil change as well. I may be wrong but it sounds like it is the cam chain tensioner. Being a dry sump engine putting oil directly into the engine will not do much good. The position of the oil filter limits how much oil you can add prior to install but every drop helps. IMO the best idea is to cut power to ignition and crank it over a few times.
 

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thank God I just read all this I just left my shop and was freaking out about the same noise as I'm getting ready to go on a trip this weekend....
 
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