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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here is what it took me to install mine. Im not sure this is a task for a beginner and certainly not for one who has never done a clutch pack.

At first I thought I could do it all from the bottom, I called the folks at Rekluse and they did not know as they did their unit from the top. They asked me to keep them in the loop if its possible from below, It is but its not the best way to do it. The slave cylinder will kick your ass trying to do it from the bottom.

Pulling driver seat is very helpful.
First pic is the tunnel all torn away note I have added wiring in this area for a radio install,

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Second picture is forward where the slave mounts,

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Now is a good time to soak the core body and new fiber disk they give you in some oil. Both their bags leaked on me =)



Removing the cover is a simple process, drain oil first then pull cover. Not much residual oil in there. lay some towels across driver seat pan as everything gets pulled from there.
NOTE, this is not in the instructions, there are 3 lower bolts on the case that have copper seals on them, they are not drain bolts but they have seals nonetheless. I used a red sharpie to mark the cover where these 3 would be put back. All bolts are same size.

Heres what you see,

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Clean gaskets from both surfaces now.

Start pulling the clutch pack and setting all the fibers in stack and all the disks in another. You will get to a point (#7) when the discs will no longer come out, this is the lower clutch pack and its held in by a very small wire that acts like a circlip. It pins itself into the center hub. You MUST find this junction where BOTH ENDS MEET and extract this wire.Dont just grab it mid stream and yank it out, you will break it off. It is not to be reused so go ahead and deform it, just dont break it off inside. No pics possible here, sorry folks. The instructions here are terrible. At this point you will be pulling belvue washers (curved washers) and flat washers, there are 3 of each type and they ALL get tossed, again the instructions make no note of this. Once you've got everything out its time to sort the stack. Note that the lower packs friction discs are much smaller in width of the friction face than the upper pack, you will not use these small discs, you will use their plates though. See photo, small fibers compared to large.
Sorry, didn't realize its a crappy photo but you can see the difference, make sure you don't reuse the small ones, you have to add the one Rekluse sent in the kit to make up for this. ( friction, 9 plates)

Circle Metal

Now follow directions remembering that friction disc goes in first then alternate stack up until you run out of discs. The core then goes on and the new pressure plate. Its very straight forward here, make sure the core in installed in a set of grooves that are full depth, I marked the others with sharpie before I started the stack up to make it faster. leave the cover off for now.

Bleed the slave as per directions, the better you do this in your hand now the easier it will be to bleed system when your all done. I ran it through probably 4 times even after I saw it was bled just to make sure. Now leaving the Yamaha slave on engine remove the hose and install it carefully on the Rekluse slave, give it a little wrench torque and let it hang by the hose.
Remove this,

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It sucks! They loctited these bolts and there is little room to work, take your time. Once out, clean surfaces, install gasket and then new slave. From here follow directions and set up free play gain on the disc then finally install cover in back with new gasket and service your oil.

Did you want to know where the dipstick is for the transmission? Its right here,

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You have to remove the right seat side panel to get to it.

Here is what you should have left over after install, if you have more or less, something is wrong!

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Picture with wire/circlip thing, looks like a hair.

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Bleeding the slave is much easier if you have a mityvac, I highly recommend as a martial-tooling-investment, you wont need you wife pumping the brakes and clutch!

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Hope this helps those that want to tackle it, took maybe 4 hours but I pulled all bottom panels, seats and was changing all my fluids as well. I would count on a half day to do it anyhow.
 

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Thanks for this! Does the kit come with new gaskets for the clutch cover and slave cylinder, or did you have to buy those separately? What kind of oil does the tranny take? And, did you need to do any additional adjustments to the Recluse in order to get it properly dialed in?

Yes, we need a ride report now!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for this! Does the kit come with new gaskets for the clutch cover and slave cylinder, or did you have to buy those separately? What kind of oil does the tranny take? And, did you need to do any additional adjustments to the Recluse in order to get it properly dialed in?

Yes, we need a ride report now!!
It comes with everything you need minus oil. I run a thin line of red RTV on the gaskets more to hold them in place than to seal it. Optional for sure, oil also works to hold them in place. Yes there is some tuning and it will be different for everybody, its simple and explained well in the directions. Transmission runs engine oil.
 

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It comes with everything you need minus oil. I run a thin line of red RTV on the gaskets more to hold them in place than to seal it. Optional for sure, oil also works to hold them in place. Yes there is some tuning and it will be different for everybody, its simple and explained well in the directions. Transmission runs engine oil.

Any performance data yet to share with us on how well the Rekluse works?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I haven't had it out yet to give an opinion, when I do I'll post here. Most likely wont have video, sorry. And so you know, I still use the clutch to get into and out of first, I did not use it for the other gears even before the rekluse.
 

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Confused ?? Why are you putting in the Rekluse ? My machine is supposed to be in soon. The dealer knows shit about the machine but assures me that if it is geared to tall for what I'm doing the Rekluse will take care of that ? Anything you can tell me will be helpful. The machine is mine, pending test drive. Test drive. If geared to tall I'm out. They will not put in a Rekluse unless I am definitely going to buy it. Rock and a hard place. Is geared to tall still geared to tall Rekluse or not ?
 

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A Rekluse Clutch is one of the coolest things ever made for an off road machine. I have never had one in a buggy, but have had one in all of my KTM 4 strokes since 2008. First off it is virtually impossible to stall if set up correctly. It takes ALL of the chatter of being, even a little bit, in too high of a gear when going around a turn or just chugging up the nastiest most brutal rocky rutted out mess....it just won't stall. The new generation Rekluse units are so good you wonder why you ever waited to have one put in. First gen units did not have the ability to over ride the clutch, but all the newer units have almost completely stock feel and use of the factory clutch. The clutch obviously does not change the gearing, but does let you cheat and ride in a higher gear and let the clutch do slipping perfectly. It is possible if you are a complete moron to burn the clutch up by leaving it in high gears and melting it, but if you treat buggy like it has a typical clutch, it will last as long or longer that a typical clutch. The only down side is that you lose the ability to bump start the buggy if the battery dies, because the clutch uses centrifugal force to engage and at idle there is not enough movement to engage it. It is going to be my first mod beside the turbo. Cheers
 

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Confused ?? Why are you putting in the Rekluse ? My machine is supposed to be in soon. The dealer knows shit about the machine but assures me that if it is geared to tall for what I'm doing the Rekluse will take care of that ? Anything you can tell me will be helpful. The machine is mine, pending test drive. Test drive. If geared to tall I'm out. They will not put in a Rekluse unless I am definitely going to buy it. Rock and a hard place. Is geared to tall still geared to tall Rekluse or not ?
I have over 250 miles on my YXZ, had it for two weeks now. I have only driven it in mud, mountain trails, and rocks -- NO DESERT YET. I love this thing, it performs and is VERY fun to drive.
The build quality is like no SXS I have ever been around. I think 1st gear being to tall is going to be a matter of opinion, and what you like to do. I killed it some when I first started to drive it --
only because I was so used to a CVT-style transmission. Now, no issues! I am looking forward to the Rekluse, just waiting for it to arrive. Based on all the Rekluse videos I have watched, and speaking with technical support
at Rekluse, I believe it will help a lot at the low-end and allow a user to better manage slow uneven terrain without stalling. It is adjustable, if you want it to grab at a higher or lower RPM you can make that happen.

What I have found is that you can idle the YXZ and go 4 or 5 mph on mostly level terrain in 1st gear. However, for uneven more challenging terrain you need to be closer to 8 mph and/or 2500 rpm to begin to get real traction with enough momentum
to attempt more challenging obstacles and really ramp-up the RPM under a load if needed. Those who have used the Rekluse with other off-road vehicles, love the technology and will not go back -- mostly for the same reasons we are looking
at the Rekluse in the YXZ. I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I did it so I can enter corners much faster without the possibility of stalling and so the wife and kids can drive it. I also use them in dirt bikes and love them on the four strokes. I'm the odd ball out that does not think this is going to make the yxz a crawler/mudder. It will stop you from stalling but that's about it. Good clutch practice (slippage) will still be required just as it is with them in dirt bikes in tight rocky steep areas. It makes a huge difference on how fast you can enter a corner though. Also getting used to freewheeling and how to stop that will turn some off.
 

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I did it so I can enter corners much faster without the possibility of stalling and so the wife and kids can drive it. I also use them in dirt bikes and love them on the four strokes. I'm the odd ball out that does not think this is going to make the yxz a crawler/mudder. It will stop you from stalling but that's about it. Good clutch practice (slippage) will still be required just as it is with them in dirt bikes in tight rocky steep areas. It makes a huge difference on how fast you can enter a corner though. Also getting used to freewheeling and how to stop that will turn some off.

Freewheeling is something that can be adjusted out from my understanding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Freewheeling is something that can be adjusted out from my understanding.
It can be adjusted but not all the way out. Its eye-popping the first few times your going down a decent and using engine braking to provide speed/traction control then the thing goes into a freewheel mode! The fix is counter-intuitive and that is to goose the gas, it re-engages and you start all over again until the sweet spot. You can move that sweet spot up to a point where the Rekluse is doing nothing.
 

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McKay, what is the recommended RPM for engagement from Yamaha ? How far up and down can one deviate from that ? Thanks for all the great info
 
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