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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys so here’s the deal.
I rolled my z and now I’m starting to think an ins claim might be on the horizon,my concern is I don’t want a wrecked machine back but I also don’t want to have an insurance claim if they won’t total it. Yeah I know 80% of value I know the details. What do you guys think of damage?? Cage is tweaked on passenger side see where it broke powdercoat and flattened arch in tube, ripped front bumper off taking flange welded on frame with it, bent my pod lights, broke headlights, broke plastic.
 

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Pictures seem to be repetitive on front bumper mount and broken headlight..... but, doesn't really sound too bad. I would replace the cage, replace/stitch damaged plastics and headlight while cage is off let the good times roll.... no pun intended. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah sorry about the pics my phone froze in the middle of the upload and this is what we got. Wife said 2 weeks earlier I could pick new sxs or new truck I bought the truck and then this happened. So I’m stuck with my z regardless of damages .
 

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If you don't turn in a claim, repairs will be out of pocket. That's why you have insurance and pay on your policy...to not pay out of pocket for repairs. Either way you will benefit from turning in a claim.
 

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If you don't turn in a claim, repairs will be out of pocket. That's why you have insurance and pay on your policy...to not pay out of pocket for repairs. Either way you will benefit from turning in a claim.
I have had my machines involved in quite a few "incidents" over the years. Let's just call it more than 10. One machine is on its third cage. I too carry insurance, but have not used it a single time as that is a pretty expensive (and slow) way to get back on the road and your insurance will quickly become unaffordable. Insurance is for totalling events IMO and what YellowZ has described does not sound like such an event.
 

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thats not totaled at all. ive repaired way worse than that, including my own Z. completely collapsed a-pillar tube, just reliefed the damaged, pulled out the bend, installed a new cage to square it back up and plated the damage. take it to an offroad fab shop. looks like less than any deductible.
 

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Well I finally rolled mine.. broke a mirror, bent the super cheap spare tire carrier, oh and bent the driver side rear fender.. rolled it back onto its tires, let it sit for 10 minutes and fired it up like nothing happened.. shout out to BCF!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thats not totaled at all. ive repaired way worse than that, including my own Z. completely collapsed a-pillar tube, just reliefed the damaged, pulled out the bend, installed a new cage to square it back up and plated the damage. take it to an offroad fab shop. looks like less than any deductible.
I don’t know what your deductible is but a new cage, new front plastics, headlights and housing, front bumper, not to mention the tweaked frame mounted bumper mount is def more than my deductible. My position is more of I have State Farm if they total it will I be able to buy it back and if they don’t, do they typically issue a check I can use for what ever repairs I choose to do or is it more like car insurance where I have to fix only what they call for, additionally how much have your rates increased if making a claim ??
 

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I don’t know what your deductible is but a new cage, new front plastics, headlights and housing, front bumper, not to mention the tweaked frame mounted bumper mount is def more than my deductible. My position is more of I have State Farm if they total it will I be able to buy it back and if they don’t, do they typically issue a check I can use for what ever repairs I choose to do or is it more like car insurance where I have to fix only what they call for, additionally how much have your rates increased if making a claim ??
sorry, pics don't show any of that damage. i was referring only to the frame being possibly dented/tweaked. the frames on these are .061 wall like the cage (for the most part) and can easily be repaired without needing a frame swap. if youre trying to get them to total it out, nows not a great time as many insurance agencies will look at street value vs kbb or NADA which is tyically behind the curve in terms of real world value. so your Z is worth more now than it was last year or 2 (likely, not 100%)
many plastics are backordered (main hood and mini fenders have no ETA per my sales rep)
deductible for most is between 500 or 1000. any offroad shop can likely fix the frame for under 1k (im literally doing this right now for a customer)
so cage can run you 100~ for a stock replacement or 1900+ for an aftermarket one (ours start at 1900 installed with powedercoat)
as for the claims process itself, what we have seen to be typical is customer drops off car, we do a complete investigation to damages, get OEM or like-for-like replacement costs, get a complete estimate and send it in to insurance. if they approve, customer gets check and then we decide with customer what gets repaired. some keep a little money, some get OEM replacements, or most use the funds towards upgrades.
rates going up or not have a lot of factors and would best be discussed with your agent. from my personal experience my rates id not go up when i made a claim a few years ago, but rates overall have increased.
 

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sorry, pics don't show any of that damage. i was referring only to the frame being possibly dented/tweaked. the frames on these are .061 wall like the cage (for the most part) and can easily be repaired without needing a frame swap. if youre trying to get them to total it out, nows not a great time as many insurance agencies will look at street value vs kbb or NADA which is tyically behind the curve in terms of real world value. so your Z is worth more now than it was last year or 2 (likely, not 100%)
many plastics are backordered (main hood and mini fenders have no ETA per my sales rep)
deductible for most is between 500 or 1000. any offroad shop can likely fix the frame for under 1k (im literally doing this right now for a customer)
so cage can run you 100~ for a stock replacement or 1900+ for an aftermarket one (ours start at 1900 installed with powedercoat)
as for the claims process itself, what we have seen to be typical is customer drops off car, we do a complete investigation to damages, get OEM or like-for-like replacement costs, get a complete estimate and send it in to insurance. if they approve, customer gets check and then we decide with customer what gets repaired. some keep a little money, some get OEM replacements, or most use the funds towards upgrades.
rates going up or not have a lot of factors and would best be discussed with your agent. from my personal experience my rates id not go up when i made a claim a few years ago, but rates overall have increased.
Listen to this person: His advice is spot on. BUT, do not install an OEM cage again. Invest in a quality aftermarket DOM hand welded cage: Better protection for the occupants, less induced strain on the factory chassis and much easier roll recovery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I didn’t have a factory cage to start I have a cageworks cage. Held up really well just popped the powder coat on a joint. I’m located in Michigan and thanks for the offer on hood I will prolly leave hood as is. I’ll keep you in mind if I change my mind though.
 

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Do your doors shut right or are they completely out of alignment? Have you looked at the radiator and seen if there are any cracks around the mounts? Does it drive straight?
 

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Cage is meant to bend and tweak to keep from bending the main frame. My 17 has been flipped and rolled so many times I lost count. Like already posted if the doors shut fine and it drives straight bend the stuff back and enjoy it. Stick cage is junk but when you beef up the cage then usually the frame will bend. I just keep bending my stick cage back and fixing it.
 

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Took pictures of my doors one still has perfect gaps, the other is slightly off, I could be wrong but I thinks it’s just out of adjustment since the other gap is still perfect.. what do y’all think?
Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Vehicle

Grille Vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire
 

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I think it’s a rear fender out of whack. I had to bend that little bracket on the back way up to get the rear tip of the fender back up, even with the other side.
 

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Strange the decals line up but the door doesn’t. Like it was off before they did the decal. But like t dog said for sure check that fender. I scratched my head for a whole day trying to find my issue and ended up being exactly like he said. Bent that bracket and it was back to perfect.
 

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again this is just my .02 cents....
check the upper hinge at the frame. aftermarket cages are so strong that they will usually hold the a-pillar bung in place ,but the down tube of the frame can get tweaked. usually the upper door hinge will bend, making it nearly impossible to close the door, and being that the tube is bent and the hinge being off, it can look like ALOT is out of alignment.

a little trick i do is take a set of long nose vice grips and pinch the upper hinge tight and bend it back straight. 9 times out of 10 the door will land perfectly on the clasp after that.
Automotive tire Tread Bumper Fender Automotive exterior

Hand Finger Thumb Nail Wood


the frames have a ton of spring in them. design actually isnt as bad as alot of other manufacturers, but it does make it annoying when trying to assess damage. just takes a little know how and willingness to manipulate the metal. from the pics, i still think your car is fine.


you can also remove the door skin and slot the holes that the security bolts locate in. if the frame is actually tweaked, this is the next step. these are toys, not cars, and every claim across the board will increase rates. just my .02
 
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