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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I'm a newish YXZ1000R owner, I've had one since February and have enjoyed it so far except a very annoying problem since I've bought it. I bought it used with a little over 600 miles on it and from the day i picked it up it has just not run completely right.

When its cold, it runs as it should, no issues. Once the machine starts getting warmer, it just doesnt want to move at its full potential until it gets into a higher RPM. It just lags and sounds like crap until it gets into a higher RPM and then it just takes off. There was one time where I was running it for quite a while without letting it cool down and it was lagging in the lower RPMs and the higher RPMs, the machine just didn't want to go like it should. It does it in almost every gear too. I have a Rekluse in it and thought that might need adjusting. I opened up the clutch and noticed the plates looked pretty rough. The steels were blue like they had gotten hot and the tranny oil had a burnt smell. I had thought this might've been the issue.

I installed the Tubeworks oil mod and I also installed new Barnett clutch plates. I also put brand new 10w-40 Yamalube in as well. I adjusted the slave cylinder to what the instructions called for and made sure the gap in the clutch plates were also set right. Everything seemed in order so I took it out for a spin. Ran good until...the machine warmed up. Started doing the same BS it was doing before.

Could something else be going on? Not getting enough fuel? Not enough spark? My next option is to bypass the rollover valve, then change the spark plugs, then replace the fuel pump. Or should I be looking at something else? It has the GYTR Lower Gear Ratio kit installed and it also has an aftermarket Graves exhaust installed. Maybe my ECU needs flashed so the fuel injector and computer can work better with these aftermarket parts installed?

Any help on this would be appreciated. I want to love this machine but this issue is wanting to make me pull my hair out instead (there is not much left up there to pull) 馃槵

Thanks.
 

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Have you checked the spark plugs? They do tend to load up the spark plugs a little more than I have seen with other machines. I went with 1 range colder on both my turbo car and NA car. Wouldn't hurt to rule that out 1st.
 

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I would definitely be pulling the spark plugs to see what they are saying. Also, check the ECU to see if anyone put any kind of sticker on it saying it has been flashed. Getting that to a known, programmed state would be a priority to me. Maybe a buddy has a Flash Tune kit and can program it with the appropriate Graves tune for you. Gear reduction should have nothing to do with it, especially in a 3 pedal, IMO.
 
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Seen loss of fuel pressure act similar. Have repaired a fuel pump on a popo once that lost power, and when warmed up no power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After being away for the past week on vacation, I have returned home and started to look into the things posted here. First thing I did was ran out and bought a new set of plugs. Went with NGK CR10EK/2360 as I've read on another post that they fixed issues with sluggishness under 3000RPM and are colder plugs. Threw them in and went for a short ride. Honestly, I think it might be worse than before. Buggy wasn't even warmed up yet and it was just sputtering like crazy. Parked it and let it sit at idle and it was just varying in RPMs just sitting there. Before yanking out the ECU to see if there was a sticker or something on it, I noticed there was a cord sticking out of it with a plug on the end. I read the tag and it says "PROG HAR 4P-01 FTECU.COM BATCH 11-10-15". So I'm guessing someone was messing around with the ECU before I bought it if is has something like that on there. I'll include a (poorly recorded) video of me taking it out after switching the plugs. You can hear in the video when it gets out of the sputtering and gets into the power. I'll also include what the old plugs looked like and that wiring harness flashing thing. I'll also put the video of it just sitting there idling with varying RPMs after taking it for a short ride. What do you guys think I should do next? Pull the fuel pump? Send the ECU in to get reflashed if someone messed with it before? Wanted to go on a ride nearby next weekend with some folks but its looking unlikely with these issues going on. Thanks.
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2018 YXZ1000R SE, CageWRX cage
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I chased a nearly identical symptom, but on a completely different vehicle. I'm not saying its your problem, but, it might be worth a look.

Cold ran awesome, warmed up ran rough, stalled, no idle. High speed, all good, everything your experiencing. After hours and plenty of cash it turned out to be a crank position sensor.

Just my .02 worth.

Nate
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Might have to look into that crank position sensor once I run the rest of the way thru the easier things to check. Pulled the fuel pump today to check it. Everything seems fine with it at start up, turns on when I turn the key to on. But once it warms up, I'm not 100% sure what it does but wanted to pull it anyways to see if the pickup sock was dirty. Attached is a picture of it when I pulled it. Really not too bad and there was tiny little particles of dirt down in the tank (maybe fell in when I pulled the pump). Next I might try to bypass that rollover valve to see if it is causing low fuel pressure or other issues. 馃し鈥嶁檪锔
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, so doing a little more investigating work. I wanted to see how those new plugs looked after I drove around the yard a little bit to see if they turned any color. Plus I wanted to swap the ignition coils around to see if that was going to make any difference. As I removing the coils, I noticed the first one (farthest to the left) had like hardened crud on it. It almost looked like plastic or something on it. I didn't really see it when I put the new plugs in so I wondered if that had something to do with it. So I started chipping the stuff away and figured it would be easier to chip if I just removed the entire rubber boot on the bottom. As I did this, a bunch of plastic pieces came out and the end was all deformed and melted looking. I'm not an expert but that thing does not look right. I checked the next two and the middle coil alos had a little melting spot on it with the third one looking perfectly okay. I'll include all the pictures but do these need replaced? Could this be my issue? Maybe it was arcing where it shouldn't be and its causing my issues? I will probably just order new ones just to be sure but just wanted some opinions on them. Thanks
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I'd say you found the culprit. Now to understand what is causing it. I have over 22K miles on two machines, both with FTECU programmed with Graves tunes and the coils are still pliable. I regularly keep the engines above 6k rpms. I would definitely be getting the ECU tuned to a known state with the appropriate Graves tune for your exhaust set-up, full or slip-on. Who knows what was done to it with the bike-side programming kit installed.....
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'd say you found the culprit. Now to understand what is causing it. I have over 22K miles on two machines, both with FTECU programmed with Graves tunes and the coils are still pliable. I regularly keep the engines above 6k rpms. I would definitely be getting the ECU tuned to a known state with the appropriate Graves tune for your exhaust set-up, full or slip-on. Who knows what was done to it with the bike-side programming kit installed.....
Since I might already have some kind of tune on the machine from the previous owner, especially with the FTECU cable I found coming from the ECU, what would you recommend I do for tune? Should I send it away to get flashed? Should I buy the license and whatever else I would need to use FTECU? Since you have two machines with FTECU programming, I'm assuming you like it? Would that be the best case for me since I don't know what is on it as we speak? I'm going to have the new coils within 4-7 days so once I have them installed, I'll know for sure if that was the problem and then remedy it completely with making sure the tuning is spot on so I'm not buying new coils every 500 miles. Thanks.
 

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I bought the bench top FT kit and have programmed a total of five different ECUs using the supplied Graves tunes. To say I am happy is an understatement. What a difference in throttle response and overall performance. I have heard nothing but happiness from the others that I have done. It just wakes them up very nicely in every way. Personally, I like to have the capability, so I recommend buying the programming kit (it includes one license) and you can help your buddies once you persuade them to buy YXZs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I put the new coils in and ran it around for a couple hours, let it warm up and honestly....the thing has never ran better! No stutters, very responsive thru all the gears, even in lower RPM. I kept the same plugs in it that I used when I replaced them the first time. I pulled them before putting the new coils in and the first one (far left) looked ever so slightly discolored at the end (maybe from it arcing bad with the old screwed up coil?) I cleaned them all up and put them back in and everything has been running great. (y) Now I'm getting the hang of how this thing is really meant to run and I can see a lot more fun with this thing in the future (especially after doing some more research on a better tune) 馃榿 Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!
 
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