Forgot to add this.

Added Alpena rock lights from and rear. Found them on sale at the local auto parts store and couldn't resist.

Machined some mounts out of .25 aluminum plate I had on hand. Used the rear bed mounts and front plastic mounts for attachment points. I am nervous that full shock movement might impact the front mounts.

A lot of this becomes easier when you have a full machine shop sitting less than 20' from where your working on you're YXZ.

Oh, did I mention mud flaps?....

 

That's pretty cool! I wish I could have done that. I have the 2020 YXZ with the radiator in the back. I ordered an Inferno cab heater last week. It still hasn't shipped though. Busy times in December I guess.

 

Congrats on the 2020!

Best $10 I ever spent... course the 2 hours spent swearing while I figured out how to fit the T duct in place weren't the best I ever spent.

On the rear mounted radiator just reverse the fans, instant heat!

The only cold air we felt was from the back. But we only run a half windshield and nothing in the back.

You going to run a cab enclosure? I considered enclosing the entire cab for winter running, but figured if it's cold enough to need that, it's too cold to be out running. Though I have considered sewing up a tonneau cover of sorts to try and keep the lower extremities nice and warm.

Where in CDN are you? MiL is a Newfie... with 17 brothers and sisters spread as far as BC.
Nate

 

Yes I'm going to run a cab enclosure. I have the Yamaha rear soft window and Yamaha soft sides. I am waiting on an EMP glass windshield and wiper/washer. Yamaha doesn't offer a glass windshield. If they did I would have purchased from them. I do live in Newfoundland. It has a climate that justifies a full enclosure and heater. Also on the part of the island I live (close to St. John's) we don't get very much snow. When we do it generally doesn't last long. This winter maybe different, who knows. The trails do ice up pretty good in February/March. What part of the island is your MiL from?

I traded my 2016 Wolverine in on this YXZ. I had a full DFK hard enclosure on that, cab heater, SSV Works stereo, etc, etc... I wanted the YXZ for the much better suspension which greatly improves ride quality and hence comfort. The Wolverine was a very good machine. The YXZ, so far, is an awesome machine. Love the paddle shift, love the engine sound...no need for stereo in this one with a great sounding engine like that.

 

Nate, that’s a great idea for heat in cab. I am headed north to upstate MICHIGAN after Christmas for a weekend ride and this would be useful to do. How do wire them to run in reverse? Is it an easy process? Do I need any parts?

 

Works fantastic in suggested location. That's where mine is.

I didn't exactly follow the manufactures installation instructions as they are written though.

The first issue I noticed was the suggested T fitting tie in with the thermostat. If I had installed in that location the cooling hose would have (without a doubt) rubbed off one of the brackets on the engine and wore through fairly quickly. Same as can be said for the thermostat housing itself. It would have been rubbing against another area where its housing would have eventually failed. See attached pic showing where I moved it using outsourced 1" heater hose.

Also the other T tie in under the machine wouldn't have worked there either. The manufacture suggests placing the T in the short bend of the line. I did, at first, attempt this but that only allows too much of a bend in the newly installed hose and would seriously restrict flow. If you followed the instructions and installed the T there I suspect that's why you are not getting the expected heat. You most likely have a seriously restricted flow of coolant. In order to fix this I removed the factory metal coolant line going back to the radiator (on the drivers side, rear) and replaced with 1" heater hose so there would not be a bend in the line and hence restricted coolant flow.

This is not the first time I have had to "modify" manufactures installation instructions to make a product work as advertised. I am completely satisfied with the output heat from this product. I leave my garage and notice heat starting to come from the vents with the engine coolant temperature showing 50 degrees C minutes after starting. When the engine reaches operating temperature very soon after the heat coming from the vents is quite hot. I have noticed that both radiator fans come on when the engine coolant temperature reaches 96 degrees C and very quickly cools the engine to 86 degrees C. See attached pics. Locally I sourced the 1" heater hose from UAP NAPA in case you (or anyone else) were wondering.


View attachment 115698 View attachment 115699 View attachment 115700

Thanks for sharing this ,I know that this is an old post .I just purchased the inferno kit and started installing it and have been more than frustrated the kit does not install as easy as they suggest, so I searched the forums and found you post a d pictures and am now doing the same as you suggested and so far it is much better . I am looking forward to finishing up and get the coolant flowing.
Thanks again your idea is the best solution in my opinion.
Regards

 

Not an original idea of mine. There are a couple of threads about doing it. Most just made a jumper plug to do it. They did note that if you have a full windshield it will run warm.

Running fan in reverse?

Has anyone tried running the fan in reverse to push the hot air out the front of the machine instead of back into the tunnel? I hooked up jumper wires to the fan plug & reversed them. It does move about the same amount of air each way. Thinking I would wire in a second plug wired in reverse &...

www.yxztalk.com

 

Here we dont get a lot of snow, about 1-1/2 meters annually. But our temps can hit -40* C, with a high of -29* C. At those temps staying inside by the fire isn't a bad idea.

Wife is the owner of the YXZ, she picked based on performance and that it was a stick. When asked about a windshield she said "No, if I wanted all that I'd put a lift kit and mudders on my truck". LOL

MiL is from Hatchet Cove, she left the island back about '64. But a lot of the family is still there. Wife has been trying to get me up there for a while. After I retire from my current job (still a couple years out). We'll go and spend a couple months playing tourist.

 

You are in Wisconsin? I've been close to there...Duluth, Minnesota....in the winter. Yep, brrrrrrr. Inside by the fire is the place to be for sure! I bet you have awesome riding trails. I like having the full enclosure all year around here. It keeps out the freezing rain, snow, mud, etc. In Newfoundland the railway halted in 1989....so the old rail bed was turned into a trailway which goes across the island and is maintained. No trailway fees....yet. There are countless side trails, woods roads, etc accessible off the trailway as well.

Here we dont get a lot of snow, about 1-1/2 meters annually. But our temps can hit -40* C, with a high of -29* C. At those temps staying inside by the fire isn't a bad idea.

Wife is the owner of the YXZ, she picked based on performance and that it was a stick. When asked about a windshield she said "No, if I wanted all that I'd put a lift kit and mudders on my truck". LOL

MiL is from Hatchet Cove, she left the island back about '64. But a lot of the family is still there. Wife has been trying to get me up there for a while. After I retire from my current job (still a couple years out). We'll go and spend a couple months playing tourist.

 

Our house sits on a little over 2 ha (5 ac) so she can ride around after work but right now it's still got corn on it. :-(

We also have access to a 335 ha (825 ac) wooded farm that's full of logging roads.

Almost all of the roads around us we can ride, but where is the fun in that.

About 20 km to our north is a network of about 485 km of maintained ATV/UTV and snowmobile trails. Unfortunately they're closed to UTV because it's too warm, go figure. But I can't complain, since its registered we ride the trails for free. IIRC registration cost $30.

 

I originally cut the holes in my radiator tunnel a few years back as well. Works nice. Recently relocated radiator to the rear and put a fwd/rev switch. Got a switch prewired from amazon for golf cart. We get way more heat this way. Never experienced in the cold temps over 198 fan in reverse. Full windshield. This thing puts out some heat now.



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I'm installing the Inferno heater to defrost (and remove condensation) from the front glass windshield that I will be installing as well as increasing comfort level. I had a 2016 Wolverine and the heater was completely necessary for that reason alone.

I originally cut the holes in my radiator tunnel a few years back as well. Works nice. Recently relocated radiator to the rear and put a fwd/rev switch. Got a switch prewired from amazon for golf cart. We get way more heat this way. Never experienced in the cold temps over 198 fan in reverse. Full windshield. This thing puts out some heat now.



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Use rain x antifog on the windshield. I have dlp fan reversers in my 19, Yamaha windshield and door uppers, emp rear window... Went for a ride the other day (was probably 15° F) out, stayed warm in a hoodie and gloves. Feet got chilly but I did only have sneakers on

 

If I had seen this forum (and this thread) before ordering the heater I may have tried that. The heater has already shipped. Nice option for anyone who doesn't want to install a heater.

 

DIP (Dual Inline Package) switch. Technically it's a Double Pole Double Throw always on switch. Wired like the drawing it would act to reverse polarity in a circuit. This would need to be wired in between the fan power and fan. Realistically you could cut the wires at the fan motor, wire in the switch and be done. A better way would be to wire a double pole double throw relay and control that with a switch.

That help?

 

DIP (Dual Inline Package) switch. Technically it's a Double Pole Double Throw always on switch. Wired like the drawing it would act to reverse polarity in a circuit. This would need to be wired in between the fan power and fan. Realistically you could cut the wires at the fan motor, wire in the switch and be done. A better way would be to wire a double pole double throw relay and control that with a switch.

That help? View attachment 115259

Yes thank you very much! So when the fan kicked on it would throw the heat from the rad into the cab, I like it. Any drawbacks you can see? Overheating issues? I'm thinking since it would be cold out probably not...


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Works awesome.

 

Awesome pics! Your wife looks like she's having fun! It has been cold here recently as well. -18C or ~0F. No issues starting....but I keep my garage heated to 16C or 60F....and no issues keeping it running in those temps. I find it odd that your engine has issues running below -12C. Having said this I have only been on the trails very briefly. An hour at the most due to the snow. Luckily snowmobiles have the trails hard packed in most places but there are still sections that could easily bury this machine.

 

I keep her shop heated and so warm starts aren't an issue. She's run it out back down to -17*C (0* F) without issue. Even shutting it down and letting it cool off for an hour is fine.

I run into problems when we trailer it and go for a machine cold start. Where engine, fluids, etc have cooled below 10*F. Then getting it crank and run reliably for the 10 minutes it takes to come up to operating temp aren't always guaranteed.

 

Oh. I'll have to keep that in mind if I stop anywhere for an hour or more when the temps are cold. Do you use full synthetic fluids?

 

So far stopping is fine, though overnight might prove to be an issue. I think longest it's set after running was about 2-3 hours at around -12* C. It coughed a few times before catching, once it caught it ran rough for a few minutes. After that it was fine.

More of an issue of breathing too cold air on a cold engine. I've though about putting together a air preheater with a thermostat for cold running/cold starts. Kinda like we had on cars back in the 70's where the carb breathed air warmed by the exhaust manifold till it was up to temp.

 

Thanks for the information, mine works great when the bike is not moving but when i'm moving it starts to blow cold air. I have already modified the left side with 1 inch coolant hose and I will have to do the same on the right and give it a try. This kit does not work very well if not modified to fit(rubbing issues).

 

It is better than not having it. It keeps the windshield clear and does provide heat to the feet area. As you know these machines have plenty of drain holes and unsealed areas. Lots of places for cold air to enter or heat to escape. Sealing up those areas with high density insulated foam strips and in some places silicon caulking helps a lot with heat loss. I do also use heated seat covers which are a huge help. To answer your question though I would definitely install a heater again. Keep in mind that I had to make a couple of changes to the installation instructions to make this work better. Also I added hose wrap to ensure the hoses will not wear through any places that contact other surfaces. Don’t need to be losing coolant.

 

My fans are backwards with the dlp wires. They don't run much in the cold. When they do run it is warm, but I need more heat. I really need defrost for the windshield more than anything. But some heat on my legs would be fantastic too.

 

I’ve got a ‘17, so the kit out there that’s for the ‘19+ won’t work I don’t believe.

I was thinking of just using a rocker switch & essentially reversing the polarity of the fan wires.

Would that be a simplistic/easy/Uber cheap way of trying to get some form of heat going on my ‘17?

Thanks all!

 

You don't need to reverse the fan if it's in the stock location on a 2017. You just need to put the deck plates in the footwells and put a rocker switch that grounds the factory yellow wire from the factory fan relay.

 

You could use a DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) to reverse the fans. But, because of the current draw it would be better to use a DPDT relay with a simple SPST switch to control the relay. Either way DPDT switch or SPST with relay would run you about $20.00 from Mouser.

Of course this is assuming that you've already done the rad relocate. LOL

Wiring for the switch is here. Cab Heater

Nate

 

Wondering what temps y’all are getting. Cabs are drafty especially at door hinges. Airflow to duct work cools the duct work. Defroster is at 120 and footwells 149. Full emp glass windshield full enclosure and rear window. Ordered plug and play for fan reverse not here yet. Definitely heavy sweatshirt or jacket still needed. Definitely better than nothing but not like a car heater. Any thought. Gotta keep the wife happy lol.
22XTR EMP windshield can enclosure and rear window.

 

I e heard story’s about having to get out after awhile to cool off because it’s too hot or t shirts definitely not the case.

 

I have the Inferno heater in my 2017. I also have the yamaha windshield and upper door tops. And have a hard rear window. It stays failry warm if your slow trail riding when it's not below 25 degrees or so. If i ride fast though the engine won't stay warm enough to keep the thermostat open. So bundle up or just go real slow.